Looks good, foil looks nice , the right fin in the pic looks askew…is it the pic? Fins came out good. I am getting ready to try my first tint in a few weeks , why do you think yours turned “muddy” …dirty squeeges? I have heard/read that you need to have several clean ones on hand…or clean them while in process. Bottom configuration? Let us know how she rides…peace and waves…
The picture makes the fins look like they are askew.
As for the “muddiness” of the resin swirl - I shorted myself on the resin that I prepared and ended up having to “work” it too much to get the cloth wetted out. I also used too much red in the mix. It just overpowered everything else. My initial mixture was 1/2 light blue, 1/4 yellow and 1/4 red. As you can see from the pictures, the light blue all but disappeared.
I used the Clark 6’9"A Super Blue blank and ended up with 3.5" nose rocker and 1.75" tail rocker. The bottom configuration has a mild vee in the nose, flat through the mid section and very slight vee starting even with the front of the fins off the tail.
For the pin line, I used black pigmented sanding resin. I believe that alot of people on here use the posca pens for their lines but I never seem to have good luck with the posca pens. The pigmented resin gives me a nice clean line, just make sure it is fully hardened before glossing.
Coque, cool brandname! The board will be real nice once you get the pins and gloss done. I really don’t think the resin pinlines are that hard to do, it just takes a little longer to tape it off and let it kick.
Your board looks great! As for the the resin pin lines vs posca, I don’t seem to have much luck with the posca pen lines. They always seem to bleed under the tape line for me. I am not sure what I do wrong, perhaps I need to sand smoother before applying the tape. When I use the resin I sand the pin line area to 220, tape off and lay the pin line down. I go around the board twice with the resin and by the time I complete the line it is set enough to pull the tape. If I wait too long before pulling the tape I tend to get a jagged line.
The resin pinline is the more difficult and elegant way of doing it. I use the poscas because it’s easier. I don’t tape. I trace along my templates. If I don’t like it, I sand it off. Coque, are those 10.5 inch fin boxes? Mike
Thanks for the great comments on my board, but i still have some work to do. It’s my fifth, and i’ve been shaping one a year or so, so it took 4 years to shape 5 boards. Now i have a shape room so i’ll shape more often.
Yes Mike, they’re 10.5’’ fin boxes. I want to try the 9’‘x5’’ keel fins, but having the chance to try other fins, so i thought that was the easiest way to be able to do that.
I had some 9x5 made for 10.5’s on my last fish. I did not install them because I was afraid the boxes would come through to the deck. Any problems with that? How thick is the tail? Mike
Mike, i don’t know how thick it’s on the tail, but it’s sooo thick… I’ll check it this night at home (now it’s 17:00 here).
It looked thinner when it was shaped, but once i glassed the board it looks thicker.
Here in Spain, we don’t have any Steve Brom/Lis/Skip F. fish, so i must imagine is how this shape from the pictures i see on internet. Now i’m planing on shaping a thinner one.
Thanks for responding. While were at it, did you do anything extra to increase to strength of the box installation to compensate for the force that will occur at on the wide base keels? I’d like to know how it performs and if you get any cracking around the boxes. Finish that board up and ride it, my man! Mike
Hey Mike, i just measured my board and it’s 2 1/8’’ at 1’ from the tail, and 1 15/16’’ just in the center of the fin boxes.
I didn’t anything extra to increase the strength of the fin boxes, i just used resin and cloth around the boxes and i think this will be enough. Thinking about the area of a modern fin and how the modern fin boxes are, i thin those 10.5’’ bahne fin boxes will hold my 9’‘x5’’ keel fins. We’ll see…