Ok first post but I am hoping there is someone out there that can help. Brief background.
I have been surfing only 3 years, (god i wish i had found it earlier but hey). The first board I had made for me is still what i ride today, but now i feel its time is nigh and i should move on. I have shaped a couple and both come out fairly well but neither have suited my wants. So i am after a little guidance, help, advice as to where i should now go
My current board is - 7’8 23’’ 215/16 (17 1/4N 15"T) . It has a fair bit of nose rocker at 6 1/2’’ ! Three fins
The deal is i like to enter waves earlier rather than later . Steeper takeoffs send me back to my skating days and a slight fear in my stomach. BUT… i would like (I think a board that i can move a round a bit) I want to stay off a longboard for a while (as much as i enjoy riding them).
I like the idea of a magic carpet single fin. I like the look of kevin connelly’s magic carpet at say 7’. I have found dimensions but no idea on rocker
I moved to Portugal from the UK and now have a lot more time on my hands to create it.,(in between surfing and my swaylocks addiction)
ok i am 6’ weight about 155 pounds and reasonably fit.
The key is i feel a little restricted in terms of movement on the current board. ie once i have caught waves it takes a fiar bit of movement to turn and then pick up speed. I am used to snowboarding, skating and where foot movement s minimal to make turns. That said i appreciate that a bigger boards means i can get in earlier but this means more movement on the board. The current board requires me to really move to almost the front 1/2of the board to sometimes remain caught as the waves can be a little fat. Obviously that restricts my ability to turn as I then have to step back.
I realise this may bit a bit of a cake and eat question but hey you don’t ask you don’t find out
I think your current board is too big… mostly too wide.
If you’re on 155lbs, you could go with a 7’ board with a width around 21" and about 2 5/8 thick… modern rails, whatever tail you like, and a relaxed rocker or modern rocker with deep single concave for easy wave-catching.
A typical thruster would be good, but you could do a single fin or 2+1 for the fun of it.
You could go a bit fuller in the nose, too, but not too wide in the tail if you’re going to get into overhead surf with it.