Yesterday afternoon I was working as my friend came by to grab me to go surfing. The local conditions were deteriorating with bad wind direction and a hint of a new swell that fit the changing of the seasons. We hit the road and the further we drove the more the surface conditions changed to a fine glassy texture. Around the time most people were shucking their ties and hitting the bar for a few drinks , we had suited up for a go out into dream sky with 2’ to 3’ offshore peelers that made my 9’3" Yater feel like a Bentley on the highway. We watch the sun sink below the fog bank way out on the horizon as the sky turned into the rainbow bridge. I kept flashing on the Intermost limits of pure fun. Laughing in my mind all the way home.
Yesterday afternoon I was working as my friend came by to grab me to go > surfing. The local conditions were deteriorating with bad wind direction > and a hint of a new swell that fit the changing of the seasons. We hit the > road and the further we drove the more the surface conditions changed to a > fine glassy texture. Around the time most people were shucking their ties > and hitting the bar for a few drinks , we had suited up for a go out into > dream sky with 2’ to 3’ offshore peelers that made my 9’3" Yater feel > like a Bentley on the highway. We watch the sun sink below the fog bank > way out on the horizon as the sky turned into the rainbow bridge. I kept > flashing on the Intermost limits of pure fun. Laughing in my mind all the > way home. That’s why we surf!!!Aloha and Mahalo,Herb.
Right on!!!
Yesterday afternoon I was working as my friend came by to grab me to go > surfing. The local conditions were deteriorating with bad wind direction > and a hint of a new swell that fit the changing of the seasons. We hit the > road and the further we drove the more the surface conditions changed to a > fine glassy texture. Around the time most people were shucking their ties > and hitting the bar for a few drinks , we had suited up for a go out into > dream sky with 2’ to 3’ offshore peelers that made my 9’3" Yater feel > like a Bentley on the highway. We watch the sun sink below the fog bank > way out on the horizon as the sky turned into the rainbow bridge. I kept > flashing on the Intermost limits of pure fun. Laughing in my mind all the > way home. Sometimes the sessions you remember the most, arent necessarily the ones where the waves are classic. One that I remember quite fondly is this one evening session I had at my fave spot, Leftovers, where it was like only 1-2 ft. but really nicely shaped. So rather than fighting the crowds at the more popular spots I paddled out on my fish. Most of the waves were waist high but kinda just zippering across the reef. My board worked just how I had hoped for, being able to make the best use of a tiny wave. And every once in a while a shoulder high tube would come thru for me to squeeze my frame into for a second or two. From the shore it looked really micro so no one paddled out leaving me out there alone. It was definitely a soul session, one where you are surfing without any kind of distraction, almost in a trance like state.
Yesterday afternoon I was working as my friend came by to grab me to go > surfing. The local conditions were deteriorating with bad wind direction > and a hint of a new swell that fit the changing of the seasons. We hit the > road and the further we drove the more the surface conditions changed to a > fine glassy texture. Around the time most people were shucking their ties > and hitting the bar for a few drinks , we had suited up for a go out into > dream sky with 2’ to 3’ offshore peelers that made my 9’3" Yater feel > like a Bentley on the highway. We watch the sun sink below the fog bank > way out on the horizon as the sky turned into the rainbow bridge. I kept > flashing on the Intermost limits of pure fun. Laughing in my mind all the > way home. For a moment respectfully stop and consider some of the unspoken ironies behind what you guys are congradulating each other about: “Innermost Limits” was about radically progressing AWAY from longboards and that whole “Bentley” approach to surfing. It was also about the following: (1) Wide displacement hull boards that were cutting edge by virtue of becoming shorter, lighter, more sensitive, faster and more maneuverable. (2) The freedom of high velocity across the open face, tight pocket surfing and deep tude riding. (3) Deep flexible high aspect ratio single fins. (4) Powerful ditrectional changes and trimming from one spot in the mid-section of the boards. (5) A kneeboarder who kicked standup surfing in the ass through his designing, shaping and surfing, catalyzing and driving forward the (standup) shortboard revolution and also the modern kneeboarding movement. Flex. (6) Pure fun and the unlimited potential of performance surfing. Now fast forward that old surf movie ahead 3 decades and carefully note that all that accumulated knowledge, talents and creative intellectual genius of George Greenough is now solely focused and expressed, not through surfboards, kneeboards, or any of that crap, but in the daily use of a surfmat. Tom Blake said near the end of his life to just forget everything else and just go bodysurfing…hmmmmm. The “father of the shortboard revolution” has continued to move forward and evolve over the years in his appreciation, understanding and application of relevant surfing. How many of us have followed his example. Should we? But the question remains, are we now being seduced back to a prior time before that great revolution of change in surfing`s thought and the appraoch to riding waves? Have we really progressed or are we just chasing our collective tails? Are we flirting with the celebration of ignorance?
Have we really progressed or are we just chasing > our collective tails? Are we flirting with the celebration of ignorance? Ride whatever you want. I thought we were all just wanting to have some fun.
Do another line Adrian… think about it somemore…do another line Adrian… think about it somemore…Adrian…do another line
Do another line Adrian… think about it somemore…do another line > Adrian… think about it somemore…Adrian…do another line John Doe, I chuckled when I first read your reply to Adrian… but you may want to check that movie again… in George
s "Innermost Limits Of Pure Fun", his vehicle of choice (the remarkable, homemade kneeboard, "Velo") might have been more accurately compared to a small and light, fine-tuned, high powered sports car... but, a Bentley? For sure, Adrian sounds a bit sketchy and porous-brained, but that doesnt mean he didnt bring up some valid points, and that hes not right on target: the decades old, sub-cultural phenomenon we sometimes fondly refer to as the shortboard revolution would probably never even have occurred if it had been left to that eras status quo, nor will anything such as that likely occur from within this time periods mainstream… for an example, I sincerely doubt that mass-produced, epoxy/EPS cloned models are going to kick this surfing generations collective butt into the next worldwide surfboard revolution... and of course, those who dont see much significance in such things reveal which side of the paradigm shift theyre really on. Historically, those rare, enigmatic and disturbingly effective pied pipers of the surfing world always seem to blindside us from outside our comfortable boundaries, those secure little self-contained boxes that the majority of each generation busily goes about re-inventing, re-polishing and buying into... the result often ending in design for designs sake, or something even more questionable: design for fashions sake. Its unwise to casually pass off the relevance of those gifted individuals who have dramatically shown us what the real fun and performance in surfcraft design and riding waves can actually be about, demonstrating new ways, often by means of older ways, gesturing towards the future… and equally dubious is making light (without a cogent reply) of those people who may sincerely dare to express that our present time is as ripe for unexpected change as those which have preceded it. I guess this means you don`t think too much of surfmats, either.
Actually, I love surfmats. I learned to surf on them when I was 5 or 6 yrs. old. I’m 46 now, and surf more then I did when I was a kid. From time to time I will watch T.I.L.P.F. for a kick. It helps me choose a board out of my quiver that has a pure line of simplicity. I think George probably learned a few things from Rennie. Yater has made me a few REALLY magic boards. The one I road at “Little Malibu”,that afternoon, is far more advanced than those rail biting parts of evolution that are portrayed in the film. My reference to the movie was more of a feeling of looking at the western skyline, up towards Cojo. There was one very cool cat, all by himself , surfing through the little cover-up’s , to the west of me and my buddy. No one else around. The reality of my vision made me feel as if I was in one of George’s private screenings. A magic moment for sure. The waves were nothing heavy at all. It was a little bit setty though, so the waits were spent dreaming through nature. It was kinda like Perkos, in a way, where you could push around the lip and cruse through to the other side. Cruising, like a Bentley, or a Cobra. What ever! I’m stoked as ever…
Actually, I love surfmats. I learned to surf on them when I was 5 or 6 > yrs. old. I’m 46 now, and surf more then I did when I was a kid. From time > to time I will watch T.I.L.P.F. for a kick. It helps me choose a board out > of my quiver that has a pure line of simplicity. I think George probably > learned a few things from Rennie. Yater has made me a few REALLY magic > boards. The one I road at “Little Malibu”,that afternoon, is far > more advanced than those rail biting parts of evolution that are portrayed > in the film. My reference to the movie was more of a feeling of looking at > the western skyline, up towards Cojo. There was one very cool cat, all by > himself , surfing through the little cover-up’s , to the west of me and my > buddy. No one else around. The reality of my vision made me feel as if I > was in one of George’s private screenings. A magic moment for sure. The > waves were nothing heavy at all. It was a little bit setty though, so the > waits were spent dreaming through nature. It was kinda like Perkos, in a > way, where you could push around the lip and cruse through to the other > side. Cruising, like a Bentley, or a Cobra. What ever! I’m stoked as > ever… Hey, J.D. Thanks for your smooooth insights/explanation man… write again, I appreciated it! Dale
Hey, J.D.>>> Thanks for your smooooth insights/explanation man… write again, I > appreciated it!>>> Dale Hey Dale, no problem. Like alot of other guys, I check this site religiously because there is so much good info. being presented here. I’ve learned alot since finding this place and I think I can speak for some of the others when I say thanks for all the insight.