Hey I am in the process of making a natural surfwax with Beeswax, Coconut oil and pine resin, I have noticed some people also add a clay to get the texture of the wax
nice, does anyone have any suggestions of what clay to use ? I was thinking a nice white clay that is used for pottery, but someone also suggested a powdered clay any thoughts anyone ?
Don’t know about the clay but, the best wax I’ve ever used was the “KillerBeez” wax. Always stayed sticky. Don’t know what happened to them.
You are on the right track. A friend of mine in Pismo a few years back came up with the same basic formula by asking alot of questions and some experimentation. If my memory serves me correctly; You have the basic ingredients. The key to it all is the exact portions. That took my friend a little experimentation, but he eventually came up with a pretty decent cold water wax. He discovered that a warmer water or tropical wax required that he adjust the portions. The only other ingredient I can think of would be fragrance. My personal favorite being Plumeria. I want my wax to smell like I just got off the plane in Kahului, Lihue or Honolulu.
Makeing surfboard wax since 1966. (I keep bees) I use minral oil , eucalyptus resin, food grade diatomaceous earth and fragrance, Bees wax ( I prefer only capping wax.)
Re: Wood Ogre, “Capping wax”??? WTFO?
If you want capping wax you gotta get it from the bee keeper when he is harvesting honey. It is the wax that is cut off the honey combs to get the honey out ! It is very clean and light gold to sometimes almost white.The normal bees wax is a mix of everything from brood comb to honey comb to capping and is heaver than capping wax. I don't think it makes any difference though. If you want a good price on wax you should be getting it directly from a small bee keeper, They just bulk sell it any way. I used to sell mine in bread pan size blocks. If a bee keeper has 50 hives or more he will be sell in it in bigger blocks like 5 gallon buckets.
Wood Ogre, Thanks for the info. What would the going rate be for wax and are most keepers open to selling? Does the wax eventually become a waste product for the keepers? There are quite a few around here for the citrus and avocado crops.
Smaller bee keeper (under 25 hives) will often sell in 5 or 10 pound blocks. Bees wax is not a waste product you could expect to pay from $1.50 to $ 4.00 a pound for clean filtered yellow wax if you bought 5 lb or more. I would not pay more than $4.00. Bigger bee keepers more than a100 hive usually don't want to be bothered as they sell to a broker. Check with the California bee keeper asc for small part time bee keepers in your area. Or look in your local paper for bee removel services,they are usualy small time and ask them who is selling.
anyone got any ideas on what clay would be best ? a powdered clay or a standard pottery clay ?
Wood Ogre, Thanks Heaps!
Matt, Why not try the diatomaceous earth? After all it’s un-metamorphosed clay. Wonder if it has to be food grade? Didn’t know there was such.
I realise this is an old thread now but I wondered if anyone knew what part diatomaceous earth i should be aiming for for making cold water wax? Has anyone successfully managed to make homemade wax using beeswax etc? I have researched online for what parts beeswax, coconut oil, etc., should be used but im stumped with what ration DE is used. Hope someone can help with some ideas. Sure its cheaper to buy a bar of wax but i like to make things so would love to try homemade wax. To my current thinking, im thinking of trying 1 part DE but no idea if thats way off in being too much or too less? Sorry, I sound like a complete moron but never made wax before.
I tried environmentally friendly wax once…it was packaged in with an order of board building supplies…it permanently stained the fiberglass light brown terribly. Worst product ever. Stick with the tried and true formulas.
Cheers mako. I have an old bic board for the kids so just thought i would try it on that. I am using all the same ingredients as matunas but as i said stuck on what ratio of diatomaceous earth to use. Are you saying however that the brown color of beeswax is what stained your fibreglass and if so, would bleaching the beeswax in the sun possibly be a way round this staining problem you had? Homemade wax is trial and erro anyway right so i will see what i can come up with i guess, just a pain in the backside fnding all the right ratios eh! Oh well, soldier on!
It turned a nice new white board light brown anywhere it touched the board. Wax remover did not get rid of the discoloration.
ouch! okay well looks like i better start bleaching it in the sun! Thanks for the warning though and hopefully your board was alright other than the unwanted discoloring