Hey, I was wondering if somebody could shoot me some advice. My girlfriend is moving to Hawaii in a few days, and I’m going out to see her and another friend who lives out there in March. I am making a board to bring with me, and I’m having trouble choosing a size. I’m 5’11, 150lbs. the longest board I regularly ride is a 5’11, and i’ve taken it out in up to head and a half, but Rhode Island isn’t powerful like open ocean swell. I am thinking about making a 6’1 or 6’2, but considering i normally ride a 5’8, Im worried it will feel like a boat.
Do you think I could get away with a 6’0 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/8, or will it not have enough volume to get into a wave of consequence. I’m planning on making it with a ton of rocker, nose and tail flip, and a moderate-mild single concave from the front foot all the way through the tail, and I was thinking that the extra rocker would make it possible to go 6’1 or 2 without it feeling ‘dead’ in anything other than macking surf. thanks guys!
It depends on
what you choose to surf - Not every spot is top to bottom drainers
over dry reef. In fact most places here on Oahu are completely over
run with beginners & below average inexperienced surfers, even on
the north shore. Sure, if you first timer bee line for Backdoor Pipe
on a solid swell you’ll have your ass handed to you after waking up
in an ambulance. But you’re just as likely to find softballs driving
around the NS, just look at all the cars overflowing the sides of the
road with logs on top, every couple hundred yards. Bring what you’re
used to, put in a few sessions and go from there. But I wouldn’t bring anything - There are TONS of
used boards here for cheap especially this time of year. You have to
practically give away a used board around here.
If it were me, I would buy or rent something once you get there. The fees the airlines charge are out of control. A friend of mine just came back from Nicaragua the other day and he left his 2 boards behind after being raped for $350 on the way down.
depends on your airline, it only cost me $50 to bring 3 board down last year,
And Grasshopper where are you planning on surfing? you can go thinner for hawaii in my experience compared to NJ waves, because of the extra push and power of the waves, i really enjoy my simmons and fish went i went; it was great for both north and south shore, for most of the time. although i would have liked to bring my hpsb for a few days on the north shore. I say bring your boards man! its the testing grounds. in NJ it is so hit or miss, sometimes you get 2 solid weeks of swell or a month dry spell you never know. Bring your boards their and you will see if they really work especially with more consistent waves, you can replicate moves over and over again compared to east coast which every wave is completely different for the most part, just my .02! whatever you choose just have fun and enjoy the stoke!
Yeah I had considered just buying some out there to leave with my girl. Its not a bad idea. As for waves, I know i’m going to boneyards with a friend of a friend, and probably val’s and lani’s. I’ll be on the big island for a while too, so i will be bringing or buying a short n stubby. I just dont want to be super undergunned if its head high but way more powerful than i’m used to, but if I build something over 6’0 I want to be able to use it at home (no pintails). I’ve only ridden a few boards bigger than 6’, and i never particularly liked them, but it was always in gutless surf.
Are a lot of people still surfing boards that size? I almost think a longer board will smooth out my style, i know some pros never ride anything shorter than them.
If you take 1 then you might as well take 2. Bring your fav 5’8 and make something bigger - 6’6 - 7’0 and thicker in the middle than you think you need but taper the rail. You don’t want to be stuck in the channel because you can’t make a drop when the waves are big and perfect. Or do like others recommended and pick up some boards there.
a 7’0? That seems huge for my intent. I dont have plans of going out and trying to charge way outside my comfort level, just to push myself. I can’t imagine needing anything that big unless it was doh+, but I could be wrong.
Right now my ‘step up’ is a 5’11 with a super narrow tail (12 3/4") and a round pin… I’m super scrawny so I dont think I’d be able to turn or duckdive a mini gun. I think if I end up wanting something like that, I would rather get it there than build a board i’ll never use in Rhode Island. Maybe I’ll build the 6’1 and bring that and a 5’8, and buy a step up pintail out there and leave out there. I think I need a slightly longer hpsb just to get over my aversion to longer boards. Right now the plan is 6’1 x 18 3/8 x 2 1/8, nose 11 5/8, tail 14 variable, 5 1’2" nose rocker, 2" tail rocker with a slight flip on both ends.
Ambrose, thank you for the tips. I would love to just order a board for when I go, but airfare will pretty much make that impossible. I’ll definitely look into the spots you mentioned.
For what it’s worth. When I was in my prime I took a 6-6 to Oahu in the summer. I thought it was plenty of board. Summer, right? I’m driving around looking for surf and drive by Diamond Head. It’s perrrrrfect. Easy channel to paddle out. Only, it’s a LOT bigger than it looked from the bluff when I paddled out. DOH+ easy. I was wishing I had a 7-6 rounded pin in the worst way. It took an hour to get my first wave and I caught 4 smaller waves in two yours. It will humble you, believe me. Take a 7-6 round pin unless your in the top 5 percent. Be realistic. Mike
Oh wow thanks. A piece of advice I got was “if you ride a 5’11 at head and a half, bring a 6’2 and if it’s not big enough for the waves, get out of the water” lol. I’ll pick up a mini gun out there if I end up needing it. I would be stoked to build one, but I’ve never needed one in R.I. so I don’t want to spend the time on it… Thanks for that heads up rooster. I didn’t think most people went out in anything requiring a big board, but I can see how you could end up in that situation. If none of my friends has something pinny and long, I will definitely lock one down.
you will be surprised at how small your board will feel when you are paddling around the lineup at sunset or trying to push through the ledge against some stiff tradewinds…
your 5’8 and 6’2 are a good start for the down days or south side but if you plan on surfing the really good days you will want some more board. when you get back you can put it in the rafters for those big days once a year at ruggles.
how can you go to hawaii and not hope to score “doh+”? that is every surfers dream! you will rock up to the beach and see huge perfect waves and you will not be able to stay out of the water. it would be a shame not to be able to catch anything because your board is too small! a 6’6 is a perfect size for a lot of breaks on medium swell days on the north shore. a thick 7’0 will be able to get you on some 8-10 footers if you have the balls. size only goes up from there but that may take a few seasons to work up to…i never broke that threshold…
a 7'0? That seems huge for my intent. I dont have plans of going out and trying to charge way outside my comfort level, just to push myself. I can't imagine needing anything that big unless it was doh+, but I could be wrong
[/quote]
My first outing at Sunset Beach, was in glassy conditions, with beautiful long rights just like 12 foot Windansea, only twice as long ,and really powerful. I had heard that 12 foot Sunset was a handful. I was smugly congratulating myself for ''easily handling'' 12 foot Sunset. Imagine my surprise when a NS local named Alton Taveros, who was paddling beside me commented, ''Sunset is really neat when it's like this, just you and some friends, glassy, and nice 5 and 6 foot waves.'' I was knee paddling at the time, and damn near did a nose plant into the deck of the board! I've gone a long way around the barn to tell you that you WILL be immediately out of your comfort zone. So, make a seven footer. It will feel shorter than you can imagine.
You guys raise a lot of valid points. Especially that nobody would actually pass on really good waves… when you see someone get a good one, its inevitable… better to be prepared for it. My friend is going to pick up a semi gun for me before I come out, and I’ll still make my 6’1 or 2 for the ‘regular’ days there. I guess I didnt know if it would be ridiculous to think i’d need a pintail with some size, but it seems that it is not. Thanks!
Go and stay as long as God Wills. Be nice to da Bruddas and show respect. A twelve pack, some Poke and a little Pakalolo goes a long way. Don't be smart ass or stink eye to any women (wahine) they may be somebody's little sister or niece. If you take a board and somebody wants to borrow it for a couple of hours, let 'em. If the board you take doesn't work, there are plenty of good used boards that will work in the Haleiwa shops. I've brought back two or three good Island style spears over the years, including a Dick Brewer 9'0 gun. Enjoy.
Standing
at Hanalei, watching high speed vapor trails streaking across huge
Hanalei in the far distance, my first mid-winter trip to HI back in the
day.
A surfer emerges from the shorebreak, returning to shore with a long rocket under his arm.
“How big is it?” I ask.
“Solid ten foot, maybe some 12 footers” he replies…
Wax
up my 8’6 pintail single fin, make the long paddle out, sit in the
channel to get my bearings and watch a set with 20’ faces come
thundering into the lineup.
And didn’t know what I wanted more, another 12" on my board, or being back safely on shore…
There is a lot of water moving around at most breaks in the North shore. To surf a wave you first need to catch it, and to do that from a good take off spot often requires a lot of paddling and dealing with currents. Too little board and you will get tired soon, not catch waves or get a set on the head for not being able to paddle and position yourself where you need to be. A 7’0" is what some call a “Hawaiian Shortboard” and is a good all arounder if you are a shortboarder. Sure, Kelly surfs a 5’6" but… are you Kelly? A good 2 board quiver would be a 6’4" and a 7’0" and you want boards that offer CONTROL as the waves will provide the speed. If you are going to surf Sunset Beach, get a 9’ gun.
I wouldn’t bring a board coming from the east coast of the US. I’d use the money to get a used board after you get here, maybe 2 boards. Our waves are very different from the east coast of the US. The boards that work best will be different too.
Get a board or 2 once you get here and check things out. You can sell them or just one and keep the other here for return trips. You’ll save a lot of money and hassles.
Another thing… I find it interesting that people will come here from all over and think “I’ll just go out to Sunset” or pipe or whatever. Every spot has a local crew and a whole lot more locals who want to ride those waves. If you don’t check things out before and during your surf, you may be looking for trouble and not even knowing it. The water is very lively, and the breaks are usually far out from shore. Bigger is usually better for boards if you’re not used to the power of the ocean here. After you get used to it, you can go smaller, but you don’t want to start out with the wrong board. Worst part of surfing places like sunset if getting caught inside. You won’t be riding anything, and you may end up losing your board and having the experience of your life.
@ sharkcountry. I hear what you’re saying. I’m actually going to be on the big island for a few days first, so that should be a good way to get used to surfing without all the rubber, and feel out the boards that will have (hopefully) been purchased before or as soon as I arrive. I dont want to go run out at the big name spots and hassle. I don’t plan on going anywhere well known unless I’m with someone who lives there… even at home I’m more likely to find a wonky section that nobody else wanted than play king of the peak, i’m not a big hassler.
Having a good sharing attitude is essential to have good positive experiences anywhere you travel. If you paddle out with a smile, wait for your turn, cheer for other peoples good rides and are there to have fun in the ocean instead of in the mentality of ripping and showing off, you will eventually catch waves and more important, you will make some friends. In my experience Hawaiians are some of the most friendliest people in the world but wont take shit from anyone. Get to know Hawaiian culture and read about their history before you go. Listen to what sharkcountry is saying, check out buoys, look at where poeple are paddling out, talk to a lifeguard, check out the vibe in the water and look at the ocean for a while before you paddle out. When in doubt, don’t paddle out. There is a lot more that Hawaii has to offer besides surfing and remember to always show gratitude and give something back.
