Any help on placing my glass on Arakawa fins True Ames Lite 4 3/8 Base, 4 1/2 Height, medium Rake
on my 14.8 wide tail 6.06 thruster with a full concave, hard rails, tucked under edge, 2.15 tail rocker, with a little kick in rocker around 18 inch mark
i weigh 76kg, foot size 42/43 = 11inches or 28cm
Surfed in mushy waves 3-6 foot, 13years plus surfing.
Any help on placing my glass on Arakawa fins True Ames Lite 4 3/8 Base, 4 1/2 Height, medium Rake
on my 14.8 wide tail 6.06 thruster with a full concave, hard rails, tucked under edge, 2.15 tail rocker, with a little kick in rocker around 18 inch mark
i weigh 76kg, foot size 42/43 = 11inches or 28cm
Surfed in mushy waves 3-6 foot, 13years plus surfing.
CHEERS
Toe in the rail fins 1/4" and cant them 5-6 degrees. Rear edge 1.125" inboard from the hard rail.
The fore-aft spread of the fin cluster, from rear of rear fin to rear of rail fins, measured parallel to the stringer, should be 7 inches for professional thrust which would be consistent with that wide a tail. If you want slower/stabler, spread the cluster up to 8 inches, but you will not get much thrust. If you go over 8 inches the board will not turn well.
The rear of the rear fin can be as far back as 3.5 inches, although most would use 4 inches on a 6’6" since it is not going to turn as fast as a shorter board anyway.
my recommendation is 4" and 11", but you can play with the numbers and get changes to suit you, for sure.
what’s your take on moving the fin cluster forward for small wave surfing(and slightly longer hybrid boards in the 7’ range)? Bert mentioned something about it because you we’re standing further forward on the board. Curious about spreading the cluster on such a board, both in width and length or just move the cluster forward and pretty much keep the spread the same.
I for one have trouble finding the sweet spot on mind length thrusters if the fins are too far back, but my experience is limited to board that have a tendency to stall in small waves if I actually find the sweet spot anyway.
Sorry I Wouter, was in a rush, just re-read your post, for some reason I read glass on fin (not fins) and thought single, for a thruster go with what backslash said.
Side fins tailing edge 1 1/4" from rail, toe 1/4", 5-6 degrees cant. trailing edge of back fin 3.5 -4.5 from tail, trailing edge of sides 11-13.5" from tails
what’s your take on moving the fin cluster forward for small wave surfing(and slightly longer hybrid boards in the 7’ range)? Bert mentioned something about it because you we’re standing further forward on the board. Curious about spreading the cluster on such a board, both in width and length or just move the cluster forward and pretty much keep the spread the same.
I for one have trouble finding the sweet spot on mind length thrusters if the fins are too far back, but my experience is limited to board that have a tendency to stall in small waves if I actually find the sweet spot anyway.
regards,
Håvard
Spreading the cluster helps find the sweet spot, but dampens the action.
The tail will start to inhibit turns as you move the cluster forward, but you still need to weight over the fins, so for most people moving everything up 2 inches for a 9 foot board compared to a 6 foot board is a reasonable starting point. And if the board is going to turn slower anyway, spreading the cluster is not such a bad thing, although I really hate clusters greater than 8 inches fore-aft, even on longer boards. My Mavericks gun has the fins at 6 and 14, and it turns with the grace of a Mack truck. However, it does other things very well…
You’d be better off with a removable center fin cuz changing it (bigger smaller etc) makes a big difference and will allow you to tune the board to a day’s conditions or your style.
Interested in what board you surf on those mushy days! I was already planning to make a smaller one. Used to have a 6.00 board, but it lacked vertical.
The reasons why i chose 6.06
to have planeing area
to accomodate my length = 6inches2&1/2
to have a bit more play if waves get bigger.
To craftee: i have two almost identical boards, and some others, so plenty of options to change fins.
BTW glass-ons cost me 18,00 Euros as to 22,00 Euros for 1 set of FCS plugs (rip off)
To craftee: i have two almost identical boards, and some others, so plenty of options to change fins.
BTW glass-ons cost me 18,00 Euros as to 22,00 Euros for 1 set of FCS plugs (rip off)
You can get ‘europlugs’, a shameless copy of FCS plugs for £1.15 pr. plug from www.seabase.eu. A thruster set of plastic fins with plugs cost £13.90. I guess FCS didn’t bother to get a patent (or it didn’t get approved) in Europe. A set of futures are pretty cheap too compared to what you are quoting for FCS.
To craftee: i have two almost identical boards, and some others, so plenty of options to change fins.
BTW glass-ons cost me 18,00 Euros as to 22,00 Euros for 1 set of FCS plugs (rip off)
You can get ‘europlugs’, a shameless copy of FCS plugs for £1.15 pr. plug from www.seabase.eu. A thruster set of plastic fins with plugs cost £13.90. I guess FCS didn’t bother to get a patent (or it didn’t get approved) in Europe. A set of futures are pretty cheap too compared to what you are quoting for FCS.
regards,
Håvard
Patents do not last forever. The “grub screw on the side of the fin” was a big part of FCS, established in 1990.
The “H” hole through to the top deck has a while to go, but I don’t think that patent has the same legs.
Patents do not last forever. The “grub screw on the side of the fin” was a big part of FCS, established in 1990.
Your right. Still, I think it’s pretty shameless to basically make a mold from the FCS plugs, change the plastic type and make the grub screw slightly bigger and call it europlugs. Other grub screw from the sides FCS compatible plug systems at least try to add something. Not that I care much, given I pay $10 for a FCS plug at the local surfshop if they agree to sell it to you at all and have them in stock…