Need some glassing advice ,someone?

General Discussion
1

Heres some pics step by step of my latest project, used some cheap insulation foam and glued up a blank, then added parabolic cork and balsa rails and tailblock/nose as shown.

Obviously the foam was a hassle to shape , lots of bead popping and so forth but I quite like the look of the glue lines down the board and was hoping to glass it as is…

I have got some Kinetix epoxy laminating resin, a little nervous as its my first epoxy glass trial,

Have been told to spackle it but I was wondering if I can tape up opposite side of the board so theres no chance of it leaking out when glassing and try to pour and squegee resin in any gaps as I go,

has any body done anything similar who might have some tips? , cheers for any input…

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Photos dont seem to appear on first post, just as well i didnt spend ages uploading them… oh thats right I did:)

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3

Not sure what you mean by taping up the other side of the board?

Spackle is used so the blank doesn’t drink loads of resin, and end up super heavy. The cheap lightweight EPS is pretty bad for that.

I can see why you don’t want to spackle, those glue lines look really cool! The board is looking great!

I’d spackle anyway, just lay it on really light, and then sand it off, the glue lines should show through, or you can just avoid them when you’re spackling.

Not sure if you’ve spackled before, but you want to use RedDevil Onetime filler fom Bunnings.

Water it down so it’s easier to spread, but not runny. Scrape off ALL the excess, only a really light film should remain. Then sand lightly when dry.

The spackle should only end up in the “pores” between the EPS beads, the surface should be sanded back so the beads are exposed. That way you get a true epoxy bond to the EPS, but the gaps between the beads are filled.

Make sure it is really dry before laminating.

Kinetix is going off pretty slow in these temps were having now, you should have ages. I just bloody screwed up a test panel because it wasn’t cured enough 18 hours after I bagged it! It all popped apart when I took the vac bag off :frowning:

4

Looking good nocean.

 

5

hey No…

just to be sure, glass the deck heavy, or youll pop your ankles through in no time with that light a foam, be real pity to ruin a beautiful board!!!

take kk his advice for the spackle! and mine for glassing the deck, say maybe 3*6oz and patch the tail and middle, oh and reinforce the fin area too!!

what is the weight PRE glass??

wouter

6

Nocean, that looks really cool. I’d spackle it with lightweight spackling. The glue lines will still show through, just thin the spackling with either a clear acrylic floor finish like Future, or distilled water. Otherwise it will yellow over time. Tape off the rails before spackling or you’ll get white stuff in the scratches.

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spakle is shit. so you may well use some shit to seal it with

8

Cheers for all the info, just what I was after to get this board finished.

KK , thanks will try the spackling method you mentioned, great advice

Wouter, sounds like a good idea to beef up the glassing schedule , board weighs in at 1.1 Kg with the futures installed as pictured below…

9

At 1.1kg, with the wood rails, fin boxes, glue lines, etc, i’d say that the foam has got to be around 1# EPS.

So you’ll need a lot of glass to make that strong enough!

Have a read through the archives on laminate schedules, and decide what suits you.

Or take one of the other guys advice on an appropriate schedule - I only use sandwich skins with 1# EPS, so I can’t help with that one i’m sorry, it would only be an educated guess :slight_smile:

Looking forward to seeing how it’s gunna turn out, looks awesome!

10

hey nocean

if you use on the deck 3*6oz + 50% patches, and the board is say 7 foot * 19 , the weight of the glass would be

361.0=480 grams cloth, resin to lam that would roughly be 150% of the weight, so **720 grams resin
**

then add  0.5*120=60 grams **4Oz cloth **and thus 90 grams of resin

bottom lam is 2/3 [2*6oz] of the deck 6 Oz, so **320 grams cloth **and 480 grams resin

then a fat hotcoat, no gloss, would put another 1.25 Ounce per foot of length board, so in total 497 grams hotcoat resin on deck and bottom in total

and again a lot of fibres around the boxes, same 4oz weight as deck…60 cloth + 90 resin

total weight cloth would be: 920 grams

total weight resin would be :1380 grams , of which thus 497 grams of hotcoat…

Total weigh lamination: 2797

plus unforeseen and blank = 4.0 Kilograms finished

say, you use bamboo veneer on the deck:

 

410 grams per square meter: 2 sq meters, or **810 grams bamboo **deck and bottom together

and 4 4 Oz in and outside on deck: 240 grams cloth + **360 grams resin **[handlam, not 1:1 ration on inside]

2+4oz bottom = **180 grams cloth + 270 grams resin **

**hotcoat: 497 grams **

total weight : 2357 grams

finished weight: 3.457 grams, 500 grams lighter than handlam**, **

you could go 3 Oz in and outside and recalculate and find you loose another 200 grams, 3,157 grams

and so on and so on…

good luck and post results here please.

11

I don't think you're going to add 6 lbs to that blank doing a hand lamination. I'm building shortboards using 2 lb EPS with double 4 oz bottom, triple 4 deck with patches weighing in just over/under 6 lbs finished depending on length and width. The shape nocean shows above should end up in the 5 lb range depending, of course, on glass schedule and length.

12

Cheers for all the great info/advice,

I wouldnt mind doing some bamboo, but still saving for a vac pump so Im probably going to go with handlam method so really good to know all the permutations and weights.

If i can finish the board and get it between the 3.5kg and 4.0kg mark ill be pretty happy , id prefer it to be strong so Ill use some 6 ounce as mentioned by wouter rather than the usual 4 ounce I use for My Poly boards.

Problem is I dont really know what kind of EPS it is as i just got it through work, but im assuming it is pretty light stuff like KK said, there seems to be two densities so I have arranged it balanced in the blank.

I hope to do some stuff on it this weekend so ill post any progress…

13

Wowsers!

Pretty board and Avante’ Garde!

 

14

Cheers Otis,
Finally got round to spackling board and have some 6 ounce glass ordered so hope to glass soon,

Looking forward to finishing this board and trying it out but it could be a while off as im out of the water with a dislocated shoulder for as long as it takes!

Thanks for all the advice, will keep posting pics as i make slow progerss on the board.

pre and post spackle pics:

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15

Ok, have glassed bottom today, really impressed with how easy the epoxy was to use as its my first go at using Kinetix.

Have gone with 3 layers of 4 ounce on the bottom and a large 4 ounce fin patch.

I am wondering if any of you guys know if I can just do a poly topcoat over the top of the epoxy lam? would prefer to do this as I think its easier to sand etc and cheaper!

heres the progress pics… thanks for any input again.

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16

YES!!!

 

That is awesome.

 

Ride report required!

17

Oh and poly over epoxy - to repeat what i’ve said in many threads -

 

If the epoxy is very very very very very well cured, and you wash it well with water and a scotchbrite, you can have success!

18

Nocean, how'd you find the Kinetix epoxy in the end? And how'd the board go?

19

yeah Karl!

and what weight is it?

20

You can, I have done it before. The epoxy lam has to be sanded so it will bond.

All things considered, it’s usually just better to hotcoat epoxy over epoxy.