hi people! ive just started shaping a new board 6,1 18* not much....i fancy a balsa deck and im planning on glueing it on with p.u resin(its a polyester blank and i will be using p.u resin) i dont have access to a vacumn pump so ill wing it...any advice is welcome1
polyester blank with pu resin??
you mean a pu blank with polyester resin?
or a pu blank with pu resin?
there is no such thing as a polyester blank.
Use epoxy not Poly resin,it will buy you some much needed working time if this is your first go at attaching a skin.
ah ok...what i plan on doing is (now) epoxying 4" strips of balsa to the (pu) deck....sorry for the misunderstanding!
Hi Gixekarl ,
i did one recently similar, I dont have a vac pump either so I just used Gorrila Glue, so far so good… it seems to be well strong on the deck and didnt add much weight to board at all. The good thing about doing this with relatively thick skins like i did (3.5mm) is that I only used one four ounce cloth to glass deck.
aahhh..thats really nice! love the tail block too....ill see if i can get some gorrila glue then..cheers fella!
just had a snoop,dont think i can get it locally..but i can get it sent,looks good stuff!....many thanks,and you,ve got me thinking i need a tail/nose block while im at it!
where do you live?
In belgium I never found the “gorilla glue”. But this is the same thing:
It’s polyurethane glue, try not to touch it, it’s toxic.
(Your name sounds german so I thought to share this info )
Around here epoxy is way cheaper than PU(gorilla)glue,why not use the right materials for the job…especially if it’s cheaper?
Oh yip sorry its just PU Glue, I think Gorilla is just the brand name, Yeah if epoxy is cheaper and you can get it why not use whats local and cheap. I work with PU glue so most of the stuff I use is leftovers from work:)
Go for a tailblock and post lots of pics!..
lol! hans..without knowing it you've unconvered a small secret...actuallly im welsh...
hi there, by now maybe yer done veneering your board. If you are not done, I’d also suggest using epoxy. I use Gorilla Glue quite a bit…for a few of the few boards I’ve made, and at work as a carpenter. If you are not familiar with it I wouldnt advise using it on a board unless you know what’s gonna happen. It expands and foams up, more than you’d think, and under a soft wood like balsa Ive had it expand where the glue was not smooged evenly over the entire surface, which leaves tell-tale voids where you can press down and feel the weak spot where there is nothing underneath it but air. I have made less than 10 boards but I can tell you that you have to work quickly with GG and have even pressure to hold down yer piece, and glue ideally covers the entire surface like a thin layer of resin would; not in thick, ropey lines. Without a vac system, which I don’t have either, yet, although one day maybe…I suggest continuous gravity weighting such as sand, water, dirt, or any fine agregate. Without a vac bag you dont get any suction on the rails or opposite side, but I dunno what else is better. Worst case use bricks and weights. And sorry if you already know this but, I have done the ‘one piece at a time’ deal before, so maybe I save you some time, you know: you’ll learn here that one could use their know-how to ‘tack’ everything next to eachother temporarily and lam one layer of light cloth over the wood, which then becomes the bottom of the skin after it is cured…which makes it easier (especially without a bagging system) to compress all at once onto the foam.
Hey gix, I've also used PU glue to do this. Works great and lasts. I like it because of how quickly it sets up, and the foaming aspect is pretty nice too as far as filling any voids goes. If you haven't used it before you might want to read dpicton's post a few times - right on info there.
What I can offer is some advice on making a dirt-cheap vac bag for this project. It's the best clamp you can have for doing this, and is well worth the cost (assuming you have a shop vac or a household one with a hose attachment). Simply put, all you need is a smooth vinyl shower curtain, Tyvek house wrap tape, and one of these household vac-storge bags http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95613 which you can probably also buy at walmart or somewhere like that.
Just cut around the valve on the vac-bag, leaving yourself a flange. Tape together your vinyl (showercurtain) bag - both sides leaving one short side open. Cut a hole in the center of one side for your valve and tape flange on both sides. Insert board, roll up end and clamp between two boards, or simply tape, then apply vacuum. Best to keep an eye on it often on for an hour or so to make sure it stays tight.
Although I haven't had any leakage problems using a bag like this, I still prefer using the PU glue because of the quick setup time. If there was a leak and you were using epoxy, that vacuum would probably burn out before the deck adhered to the substrate.
Sorry, I usually like to send a photo of what I'm describing, but can't find the card with that set on it right now . . .
thanks for the replies..i think im going to go with the 5 min p.u beacuse-
i can get that locally
im planning on doing it a bit at a time...so i like the idea of the speed.
having said that i recon i could do with a vacumn set up and id definattly like to do that in the near future...ill let you know how it goes!
ok,i went with the 5 min pu glue...mad stuff! the only problem ive had is when ive tried to do short lenghts...the foaming glue has lifted on the edges where my pin line will be..so ill re do those bits.other than that im pretty happy so far so thanks for the info people!
have you got any pics?.. cheers
Damnit I got rickroll'd AGAIN!!!!!