New Hitachi mod

After my first Hitachi modification I am not satisfy: my depth adjustement system

(  you can see it at http://www.swaylocks.com/comment/517143#comment-517143  )

is not progressive like the skil planer mechanism and video tutorial on ebay ( like https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqY4oqp-gCU ) had a big inconvenience… TURNABLE KNOB!!! I hate it, knob must be unmovable like skil! 

I think and think about a solution that join progressive depth regulation, quick gesture and unmovable knob.  I  built this solution with an inexpensive four principles screw with bushing brass (http://www.ebay.it/itm/162032923733?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=461026772326&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT )and a handcraft alluminium leverage. I applied this solution on used hitachi planer (FU-20) bought on ebay for 29 € ( http://www.ebay.it/itm/122014182640?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ), modified handle, replaced all ball bearings, applied an orientable exhaust pipe, new blades and replaced electric cord with 24 ft of siliconic wire. Now I am proud of it, I tested it and works very well. I can grasp the knob without fear of changing the depth!!!

watching small clip of this planer:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-NGB_fgCfFw

After it, what do you think about?

I can only learn from you…

Thank you




…do not know exactly what you refer with progressive depth but to have a movable knob is the way to go; just saying

 

Reverb, I speak english like a donkey, i’m sorry…

…with “progressive” i mean a word like “smooth” or “soft”, I do not know how to explain…

a direct proportion between lever movement and the depth!

I don’t understand, sorry, do you like or dislike turnable knob?

Whynot-

Your modification look nice.

Is the threaded shaft fixed to both to the shoe of the planer and the hand knob? Or does the hand knob have some freedom so it does not rotate with the lever, nut, and shaft?

Is there a spring in your mechanism?

Enclosing a crude section picture to see if I understand your mechanism.

Jrandy, You understood perfectly, the knob is fixed to the threaded shaft with fixing pin.

your section is esactly how I did it, threaded shaft fixed to both to the shoe of the planer and the hand knob!

I modify your section…

Paint it silver and write SKIL on the motor.

It is a good idea, cleanlines…

…but I am already a happy owner of a Skil 100 planer!!!

I love it!!! Here it is…

this was like 2002…there are even better now…these are some of the photos that magically disappeared from here many years ago including many more.


Hi Herb, 

how work the depth adjustment mechanism?

they work great !

I really like your accommodation!

Your aspiration system is very powerful, there is not even a speck of dust on the blank…

both vac and planer motor have been re-wired with hi-quality copper=more hp=no dust ! also the cuts are so clean there’s no need for a sureform…just block it…btw it’s not a grit barrel either.

can you name them ?

I’m sorry but my language is not good… ( I write to you from Italy )

…I don’t understand the correct meaning of the phrase, you answer to me the name of people in picture? I don’t know it…

Can you help me, please?

Ho, ?, Stecyk, Olson 

Why didn’t you do the handle Herbie? One of the more simple parts of the puzzle.  Do you prefer the “pull” over a “push”?

1=2002,better known as an 02(not pictured)…with the handle back…plus the two you see…to be perfectly honest with you, I can’t feel the real difference in either.I guess it comes from days of having nothing but a block plane and sureform=early 70s…Both handle styles work well with the forward grips I have created and function more like an oldschool big block planer. I DO prefer the handle back 02 for longer boards…but only by a small amount.

I think the handle back is very important:

When I made the move from the original position have revolutionized my way of shaping.

I did not think it was so important it but was wrong.

 

 

my forward M-16 GRIPS made the difference…a major difference…it allows me to control the planer from a wt. forward postion…by leveling out the grip control…in fact i can shape the board with my front hand only on the forward grip…so it reduces the dependancy of the wt. in the rear hand…like an old school handplaner.

 

Thank you for sharing this mod tip - I just picked up a Hitachi P20ST, and looking to mod it.

 

With the 2mm pitch threaded rod, how much depth adjustment are you able to get with the throw of the lever?