9’4" Soul Glide. Any of you photographers out there know a way to get good pictures from a board that has a deep shine? How do you kill the reflections so you don’t get all the shadows?
Troy
9’4" Soul Glide. Any of you photographers out there know a way to get good pictures from a board that has a deep shine? How do you kill the reflections so you don’t get all the shadows?
Troy
Indoors with diffused light.
Hey Austin,
Once again, Igor never disappoints. Try using a polarizing filter. Relatively cheap but helps alot.
Cheers,
Rio
That thing is killer! What’s a good resource for pinstriping how to? I am hooked.
yeah yeah, the pinstripes…but that clear tailblock is making my day!
Yet he won’t give us a how-to on the clear tailblocks. Oh well, guess it’s easy enough.
actually, i did a search and i think i found a bit of an explanation:
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=256822;search_string=clear%20tailblock;#256822
All I can say IS BEAUTIFUL WORK!
What about using plexi-glass for the clear sections in the tailblocks. I am sure it shapes pretty easy and once its glassed the resin should fill in the scratches making it crystal clear? Any one tried it.
In the mid 1960’s I owned a Hobie with a transparent blue acrylic tailblock. I recall it as being a “stock” option at the time.
Hey monkstar,
If you want an all resin with no wood tailblock here is an easy way to make one. take two long pieces of cardboard about 12 inches long and 3 inches tall. tape them all up with clear packing tape. now space them apart about the thickness of a normal tail. then tape the ends closed. now take a popsicle stick or tongue depressor and measure your thickness you want for each color and mark it on the stick. now find a level area and tape it upright and also tape the measure stick into the mold. now start pouring layers of resin. kick it SLOW. after you finish pouring your layers pop it out of the mold. We normally glass the first layer of the board and then cut the tail off. after cutting the tail we sand the top of the tailblock for a good bond and stick it to the board with lam resin. the next day we go in and grind for about 45 minutes to achieve your desired shape. if you do it clean you can get away with no pinline to hide the connection to the board. sloppy…no big deal just pinline it. hope that helps.
Austin S.
Austin,
Great pinlines!
Awesome resin swirl too. Of course.
Help me. How do you get those great swirls? I’ve watched your videos but they don’t show you doing this type of swirl. It’s so cool how they look transparent or like smoke or flames or something. I suppose that’s your trade secret, so it you don’t want to say, I understand. But I’d sure like to learn how you get those smooth fades and such.
Do you use large or small buckets of resin? Do you stir a lot or just a quick swish? How do you move the buckets when you pour it? It would be great to see you do one on one of your videos.
Hello Austin- An easy way to get a diffused light source to photograph your work is to get an Easy-up type tent( white) like the ones used in sidewalk art shows. Set it up with the detachable side walls and you will have the perfect photo studio. You can get more control over reflections by using a large piece of foam-core or art board, say 4 ft. by 4 ft., to selectively block out unwanted reflections. If you can’t borrow a tent a few bedsheets and improvised frame will work just as well. Be sure to set up your camera on a tripod for maximum sharpness.
Hey Troy, a cheap and easy way to eliminate shiny spots created by the flash is to put two or three layers of masking tape on it, depending on the power. Try it, it works.