part01
http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1029244
part02
http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1012777
part03
http://www2.swaylocks.com/node/1012778
Thanks Richard, for your well written instructions for sharpening irons. I agree that buying quality tools will save money in the end, but there are diminishing returns on the extreme end. This, however, hasn’t stopped me from indulging in some of the finest tools on earth, made in my town, too!
This is my new honing guide:
At $169, it’s off the charts, but you do get what you pay for. I also justify good tools because I am purchasing these in my 20’s still, so I hope I live long enough to get the full value. My old Veritas jig is for sale if anyone wants to PM me.
Check out the rest of Bridge City Tools at their website and drool. The center-marking gauge is awesome. http://www.bridgecitytools.com/ The owner was cool enough to let me borrow some tools when making my first balsa blank.
-cmg
I’m bumping this up for the newer forum members, as well as the ‘‘old timers.’’ Sharp tools are at the core of our craft. This is the definitive tutorial on sharpening. The reader is encouraged to start with post number one.
The old links to the 5-part series are dead.
New links:
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/perfect-razor-edge-hand-planes-1-5
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/perfect-razor-edge-hand-planes-2-5
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/perfect-razor-edge-hand-planes-3-5
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/perfect-razor-edge-hand-planes-4-5
http://www.swaylocks.com/forums/perfect-razor-edge-hand-planes-5-5
its an art to get blades that sharp ! not even from factory are they sharp enough, im a huge fan of the david combi plane , with razor blades, never a need to sharpen and i find you really need to be careful you clean all the oil off your blade after sharpening
then ibex finger planes for tight curves are great when sharp
Absolutely right. Most of the planes you buy like the Stanley Mini and the Spoke Shave are just a step sharper than dull. I’ve yet to buy a Spoke Shave that didn’t chip wood right out of the box new. The razor type planes mentioned above are great. But, if not held at the proper angle will gouge a line down the side of the stringer. Best thing to do is grind the corners in a radius. The Stanley Mini is a great little tool and the corners of the front shoe area can be ground to a radius. I have finally mastered the curved Japanese block plane and am getting good results with it now. Nothing better than a grinder to flip the stringer at the nose of a Shortboard. lowel
For sure , I’ve filed all the edges up on my razor plane , so she doesn’t mark foam Also very important to keep the stringer level and not destroy one side of the foam is get you blade dead square in the plane , and for those last few passes before she’s finished set it shallow and be careful
I have the found some old Record Block planes locally to me. Was thinking of picking one or more up but not sure what a reasonable price for a used one may be. This guys seems to have some used ones in the $30.00 range, a brand new one still in original package for like $60 and then some others in boxes I could not see for over $100 and some strange looking ones that are probably no good for making surfboards.
Would these $30 ones be a reasonable price? Or if anyone is super interested I will gladly get one for you! Just let me know
THIS THREAD IS A TREASURE TROVE. DON’T LET IT SLIP INTO THE FORGOTTEN PAST.