When I was 11 years old I visited Oahu and surfed with the Beach Boys because I rented boards from them at 6 am and bought them coffee. That was the first time I saw someone standing up on a surfboard and paddling it like a canoe. Never mind the fact the guy had an old manual camera with no housing hanging from his neck. I think his name was Cowboy or Country or something like that, and the guy made his cash surfing while shooting action photos of Japanese women. In Australia that’s called a bloody legend!
In January I visited Oahu and saw Parmenter and Brian K. and another Makaha lifeguard killing it on a 2-3 foot day at Makaha. The lifeguard was on a Munoz 11’ and he didn’t look like no lightweight. More like a very HEAVY middle weight.
Parmenter got a set wave off of the point, surfed it right infront of the dry boil, did a roundhouse to the foam and banked it while pivoting around his paddle. He connected it to the inside bowl and went in.
I give those guys max respect. They surfed like warriors, and as far as I’m concerned they could have any wave they want any day. I guess the moral of the story is, don’t SU surf unless your willing and able to be a leader of the surf community out there sharing the waves and the beach with you. If you aren’t prepared or qualified (…you know what I mean) to accept that responsibility, then go out where the kayakers go or go out alone and have a blast! Otherwise you’ll probably catch vibes from grumpy people, or the qualified regulators. I won’t get grumpy and I’m not a regulator. I’m just a tranny but I might yank your leash (ala Lance Burkhart) for a tow-in. All in good, clean, fun:)
You are so right! What a double standard! A big problem for all who have been hyper-critical of kayak surfers for using paddles and “boats” in the surf zone and generally “being in the way” of “real” surfers! I wonder- if kayak surfers are “goat boaters”, what does that make paddle surfers?
Larger, heavier, sharper equipment combined with increased paddling power (plus the potential to loose control and injure others) translates to greater responsibility. In terms of safety and respect for others.
His name was Cowboy, he passed about a year or so ago. He is survived by his wife Jenny and all his “beach boy” family. Yes he was a legend and a great guy too. I remember early morning surf session with him and Jenny. Very good people!
heh- I go on the theory that the waves those guys can do, with great big boards and a paddle, are waves that frankly don’t do it for me. They’re welcome to 'em.
You are so right! What a double standard! A big problem for all who have been hyper-critical of kayak surfers for using paddles and “boats” in the surf zone and generally “being in the way” of “real” surfers! I wonder- if kayak surfers are “goat boaters”, what does that make paddle surfers?
Brah, I know you not living here in Hawaii. You ain’t seen nothing till a 4 man canoe is barreling straight for you! Hahahahahaha!!! BTW, personally, I don’t talk sh*t about any form of surfing so I know you must be talking about someone else…
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Larger, heavier, sharper equipment combined with increased paddling power (plus the potential to loose control and injure others) translates to greater responsibility. In terms of safety and respect for others.
ParkerDavidson, I agree with you 100% on this… If anything, this is the message ALL surfers who grab a paddle should know in their head… Know WTF you have on your hands and act accordingly… Actually, ALL surfers in general should think about their actions in the water… I’ve seen plenty dangerous surfers on all kinds of vehicles…
Christ doc, how thick is the lip on that right hander!!! Nice wave until it hits me in the head…which is a distinct possibility the way I’ve been surfin lately!!
How thick was it? Pretty-d@mn-thick… hard to give you an intelligent read on it, as the shot was done with a telephoto lens and that tends to kinda foreshorten stuff. Though as I remember, it was one of those days when you paid serious attention to the channels and the lulls and such…
But, in living color;
to give ya a little sense of scale. My kind of wave. This ain’t Waikiki, certainly. And if it’s not pretty close to this good, well, it’s a good day to work or a good day to go fishing.
Might also explain why I have such an interest in fixing dings and busted boards…
