In case you all haven’t noticed from all of my questions lately, I am trying to build a no mess (or as little as possible)surfboard building room
I have just put in a pool in my back yard and had to pull down my shed where I built surfboards.
I am now in the process of building a room in my garage.
I will only have one room to shape, glass, sand and finish so I am trying to keep it as clean as possible.
I also have lots of other things in my garage that I don’t want to get dust and stuff all over.
I will give you a bit of an idea of what I have come up with so far.
My room is 4 mtrs X 2.4 X 2.4 and will be fully enclosed. I will be insulating it and installing some bathroom heater lights to try and keep the temp right. Especially in winter. Shaping lights as normal and gyprock (drywall) lining and maybe a bathroom fan for ventilation.
I will be hooking up a shop vac system the I saw here on sway’s for my planer for shaping and have been doing a lot of research on using epoxy resin to try and cut down on some of the smell. My wife says that she feels sick if she smells poly for to long.
I posted the other day asking about wet sanding hot coats to try to cut down on dust getting over everything (amazing were it ends up) and as for doing sprays and speed finishes, well I haven’t figured that out yet. Allthough I have been looking into an exhaust system to deal with that. It may even help with dust but I will have to look into it a bit more.
So what I am looking for is any idea that any of you surfcraft builder have got, anything that has worked well or fail.
I am open to all sugestions.
Cheers
I am trying to make it as clean and user friendly without sacraficing quality.
If you are using EPS, you can get the drywall sanding screen block that has an attachment to your shopvac. as for sanding after you laminate, I hang plastic dropcloths around the area where you are standing to make sort of a small room within a room to minimize the spread of dust. only other soloution I know of is a pretty big exhaust system. I hope someone else has a simple better idea.
I’ve been doing the speed finishes with those mini-rollers, seems to work ok. Foam ones for a thin coat, and the wooly ones if I want to lay a thicker coat on.
I also experimented with squeegeing the hotcoats under a sheet of stretched out plastic for a while, saves having to grind the laps down, sort of a poor mans vac bag finish. Comes out okish but some problems with pinholes from bubbles in the epoxy. Had better results doing the same thing with petticoat material as a peel ply, weights attached to the material and hung around the board to stretch it over.
If you’ve got the money though I would go straight to vac bag if you want to get away from sanding.
festools has expensive but no mess tool set ups . . . I went to pick up some luann stock for templates. The guy brings the festool circular saw inside the main office, with customer support staff on calls inside their cubes. He puts it in the mail section, and turns on the saw, and cuts the luann board. No table needed, the saw has a fence that allows you to cut the board on the floor, and not ding the saw blade. Plus the vac system drew out the dust and it wasn’t that loud.
But its expensive. I’d rather save the $$ and be messy or rent a true shaping room for cheaper.
Black concretors plastic is the garage shapers best friend. You’d be surprised how well it stop anything escaping, noise, dust, and even most fumes if put up well.
I believe that there are some great wet sanding systems that are airtools (ran off an air compressor), you don’t really want electrical ones Do a search for wetsanding airtools is my best guess. I think Auto Body Shops use them mostly. High CFM compressors might be needed though, but not sure really.
Used Varithane water base acrylic satin floor finish. Sprayed one side with a hvlp and brushed on the other side. Could barely tell the difference between the two. Spray side was a bit better. Very little fumes fast drying and self leveling. I’m saving my 2 pac clear for other projects. Applied the clear right after sanding the sanding coat with 220. If I would brush it again I’d probably use a foam brush instead of a bristle brush.
I put the varithane sp? on a kitesurfboard that I made for myself. So far so good. It’s got about 20 hrs. of water time and it gets kicked off onto the sand. I’d say it’s a winner. No funny peeling and it has that satin speed finish look. From the look of it I bet you could get the gloss and with some fine sanding between coats you could get that poly gloss look with out the weight or buffing. I like the satin for my uses, it seems to hide some of the little imperfections of the sanded finish boards better.
Do a search for wetsanding airtools is my best guess. I think Auto Body Shops use them mostly. High CFM compressors might be needed though, but not sure really.