There was no surf yesterday, the last swell played itself out. A few guys looked in the morning, and drove on. I had nothing else to do for a few hours before work, so I paddled out anyway. It was a beautiful fall day in So. Cal.
After playing in the water for an hour by myself, well, myself and one curious sea lion, a few other crazies paddled out. I stuck around a little, enjoying the laid back atmosphere (in comparison to a normally crowded and stress filled lineup which one girl I know calls “the testosterone zone”) then went in and got my camera to take some pics.
On the way, I met a guy with an Andreini alaia, most the pics are of him. Said he used to work at Clark Foam, and so got to know a lot of shapers. How cool is that? He brought his kids with him, to play on the beach.
Sometimes I think I have more fun where there’s “no waves”!!
Your pics are giving me a flashback to a great “contents” pictorial- Moir I think- from a 70s Surfer mag with the caption something to the effect of “2-3 foot, offshore, clean, tubes…sounds good right? But what do you do when these perfect little waves are breaking 10 feet from the beach? You go out anyway… It’s these days that transform an average go out into something special” (wonder how close my memory is to the actual text?).
Enjoyed these Huck, and enjoying the change in the seasons here.
Where I live, “flat” looks more like the pic that Hans posted, above.
A day like the one shown in this pic would be considered damn good in July or August. Oddly, we had almost continuous waves of that size this past August. A rarity around here. Far from normal.
