Ok I want it to be 11’6" long, 20 inchs at the nose, 24 in the middle, and 17 inchs at the tail, with a 7 inch tail block. No concave in the nose. Going to make it like 3.75 thick with knife rails, the deck will be domed in the middle but flat in the tail, and nose areas. It is going to be a hull type bottom. Here is my question. HOW MUCH NOSE ROCKER? I don’t want it to get going too fast as I get to the nose, but I also don’t want it to be rockered out so much that I can’t get to the nose with out the tail coming out of the wave. Just would like to have the thoughts of some of you guys in the know. TK
My first thought is: Why so damn big? I’m six foot six, 230 pounds, so I know the dynamics of what you speak. (Try get a rational response from someone who will never get over 150…?) Thorts: there’s more to surfing than noseriding. The only reason for a REALLY big board is to hog far more waves then you deserve (yes surfing is a competitive arena, but). Story time: I made a few longboards for an up and coming girl surfer, she was pretty good, won a few contests in Waikiki, and so on. She was after me for really wide nose boards because she wanted to nose ride, and so on. I got some waves with her and her dad one day at Threes to see how she was getting on. Her aggro, drop in on anyone attitude pissed off everyone in the water; if she hadn’t been female the guys would have stood in line (or maybe not) to punch her senseless. I disassociated myself as much as possible lest I be called on to back her up. Anyway, her desire for really wide noses had me telling her that it’s not all about the nose area or any one other single aspect of design - it’s about positioning the board correctly on a wave that she wanted to admit. Basically, she wanted the wide nose to compensate for her inability to get appropriate position. So what are you using such a big board for? Having made my own boards of all sizes since 1968, I know you that you can get plenty waves, and a lot of nose time, on much shorter boards that will turn better, be lighter, cheaper to make, won’t bonk into things as you go down steps or around corners, fit into a normal car, and so on. I’ve been there and done it.
I surf 11’ boards as a norm. I’m far from being a wave hog, in fact some days when there are way too many people in the water I catch 5 waves and leave the water. I have problems with my lungs and can’t paddle a small board with out running out of air. I’m very easy going and don’t do too bad on waves up to 2X over head. I live close enough to the beach that I can hear the waves break. I can see what the waves are doing and pick my board for the day. I have boards for just about any type of wave that comes through town. I want a board that I can catch small waves and still have fun.
well first off that is a huge board your talking about. Your better off making a board that is in the 10’6" range that is a little bit thicker. With the extra volume underneath your chest, you’ll have about the same paddling momentum and the board willactually perform better than a longer board. Think more tail rocker and less nose rocker. I would shy away from making the rails to sharp. A mellow 50/50 would benefit you greater, be more forgiving and easier to turn in mushier slower stuff. Drew
Hey Bagman, Damn, you ask for suggestions about nose rocker and all the talk is about board size. The size of the board is always up the the guy that’s gonna ride it. Right? Frankly when it comes to nose rocker in small waves I think a relaxed approach is the best. If the waves have any shape the more nose rocker you have the more water you push and that part of the rocker doesn’t help turning at all. The old step deck idea along with this would make turning the board easier. Possibly some little hips would be of service on a board this size as they would help with turning such a large board. I think that the reason so many modern longboards have some concave up in the nose is that is tends to relax the rocker and give the extra lift that serves a board in small waves. It’s trouble when it gets choppy on light board but in good condition it’s definately an advantage. My volan glassed 9’10" has a forward section that is completely concave and the weigh of the board overcomes and the vees tail section overcomes all choppy condition I’ve surfed it in so far. In the end what ever bottom configuration you decide on I’d say slight hips, add a little tail flip and relax the nose a little. Those straighten rocker lines up forward give you better downline speed too. I’v got the sniffles so I’m out of the water for a few days. Seaya at the point, Rich
Bagman, talk with Jim Phillips before you order your blank & cut out the outline. He’ll be able to enlighten you on a few aspects you’ll want to know about before going forward. He’s shaping me an 11’0+ which we worked an outline for over the weekend. The widepoint is behind center. Go with the pronounced hips like Rich says. It’ll handle much easier and turn well even on smaller waves.
Gregg, That settles it - Jim truely is the shaper’s shaper.
what happened to you world’s-largest-cooperfish?
I still have the worlds largers Cooperfish. It works real good if the waves are at least waist high. I’m on the road a lot, so I have to surf when I can. Which means when most of you are standing around looking at it and saying “I have things that I could be doing insted of going out in this S#$t” I’m out there surfing. Got to do what you can to keep in the water. This new board is also going to be used to just paddle around when there is nothing at all out there. I know that the best paddling board is not always the best surfing board. I’m hopeing that picking a noserider for a paddling board will be the right idea.
I saw a guy at PP paddling a 12’ Steve Coletta surf/paddleboard that was one of the prettiest things I’ve ever seen. Maybe put aside the noseriding idea and favor the exercise part of the equation?