Nose rider pig 9’6" x 23" x 3 5/8". Reverse tail rocker, concave nose bottom, vee bottom tail, leash loop through the fin box, 10" hatchet fin, yellow foam stain, acrylic nose rider bands set at 24". Designed by Rex Khawaii, old school design incorporated modern LONGBOARD concepts. No hard edges.
This one is made for breaks like Queens, Pops, Canoes, Threes, White Plains, small Makaha for that real old school of surfing, fading, drop knee turns, cross stepping and nose riding. If your feet are on the color bands and/or anything front of that you are nose riding.
When Morey conducted the first Noseriding Invitational the rules stated that the nose was the front quarter of the board. That’s why many of the early noserider models had a lateral stripe at the nose or solid color at the front, only. The 10’2" Hobie I used to own had a solid blue nose that covered the front 30.5". So the nose on this board, if you apply that old rule, is at 28.5" from the tip.
N 3 13/16 T 3 5/8 rocker. I cut the hole for the future fin box slightly deeper (about 1 mm) to make up for the tail rocker. Fill the flange with resin and milled fibers to make it level with the foam. 6 oz patch over the fin box and then glassed over with a full layer of 6 oz. It took me a while to get the Future center installation dialed in.
Resinhead told me to try that for crisper graphics too, on top of the fill/hot coat, but I have yet to try it. I heard other good things about Montana paints too.
D, I also really enjoy your various board projects and your ‘look’ with the bright colors and rice papers.
It took me and my surfboard building buddy Rex about 4 hours to dial in the router and future center fin jig… This one came out the best. We drop the fin box just a hair below the foam. we then fill in the flange with resin and millled fibers.
I saw a trick on Josh Martins IG where he used a heat gun to bend to the rocker of the tail. It works. I always have trouble with boxes and tail rocker. The heat gum is a good solution.
