Noserider advice

I don’t know much about the shape of a noserider. I read a lot of the pages here but I was looking for advice on this shape as a potential for a summer board. Am I going too far with the wide point at 10.5" back of center? Also the rocker is moved back 8"?


Your WP position is fine.       Actually consistant with a modified pig.      The nose is double ugly , IMO.       And much wider than necessary.        The rocker you display, will work better if reversed.      Your nose rocker should be the tail rocker, for best results.      I hope I didn’t pop your bubble.      Just trying to shorten your learning curve.    

Thanks,  it’s just a computer design, no bubble to pop. Thats why I put it up. I thought the rocker needed to be more in the tail for suction down to balance the weight of the rider on the nose?

Correct.

…are you sure the nose rocker is at the right part?

Thickness is not well distributed

I’ve found that the key to good NR rocker is to keep a good bottom speed-rocker until the last 18" or so of the tail. At this point, the tail rocker increases (kicks) to the desired amount (4"-4.25") That way, there’s no need to move rocker apex away from center and the desired continuous low rocker is retained. As for nose-rocker, I’ve found that 4.25" with nose concave gives me a wider wave-range than 4" or less. Consider the skill-level of the intended rider. There are not many people that can successfully surf a longboard with less than 4" of NR. Alternatively, I’ve had LBs with up to 5.25" of NR that noseride pretty well and are very forgiving on take-off in larger waves.

Functionally, there are two ways that I do this. When handshaping, after cutting the board to length and close to final thickness, I shape a bottom with TR= 3.625" and NR=4.25" using a rocker straight edge, set tangent to the bottom, at the mid-point of the board (search Barnfield for rocker measurement discussion). Then using the rocker stick, I mark the desired TR on the tailblock and NR on the noseblock.  I mark about 20" up from the tail and start to increase the TR to my desired mark on the tailblock. The technique is pretty simple but hard to describe. Basically, the cut is progressively deepened as I move towards the tail. (I like to start with a cut down the stringer and then move outward to the rail on each side) The second cut is started 4"-6" closer to the tail with the same progressively deep cut. Then a third cut started another 4’-6’ closer to the tail, followed by some small cuts depending on how close I am to the target. Then I make a few full-length cuts at “less than nothing” to smooth everything out. The Jim Phillips Master Shaper video is a must-see for this techniques and a host of others.

When using shaping software (Aku), I set the Bottom Control Bar at the mid-point, with the the handles level, and set the tail-rocker control bar to 3.625" and the NR control bar to 4.25". Then I use the handles of these controls to produce a nice continous curve from nose to tail, always keeping the mid-point control handles level. Then I place a “Guide” point on the rocker curve, 18" up from the tail. Then I increase the TR to 4.25" by raising the TR control bar. I use the TR control bar handle to restore the curve back to my “Guide” point 18" up from the tail. I inspect the resultant rocker curve and remove any flats or bulges. Again, I’m looking for a nice, smooth curve. With the bottom done, I switch to the top and match up the deck rocker with the bottom rocker, creating a nice even foil. I like to set my thickest point an inch or two ahead of center, with 2" of thickness at 12" up from tail and 12" down from nose. I like to leave the ends at about .75" thick so that I have some room to play with when I finish the shape.  Remember, what you are seeing is the rocker and Thickness/foil at the centerline of the board. Rail rocker line will change as you add V and /or concave.

Another comment I would add is this, as a beginning shaper, learn to trust the “Natural Rocker” of the blank, and to confine your rocker tweaks to the last 18"-20" of both ends. These “natural” rocker curves, designed and tested by master craftsmen over the past 40yr, are tried-and-true, with a list of tried-and-true rocker adjustments (Public Rockers) also available. You can even use the rocker measurements listed in the US Blanks catalogue to build your bottom rocker.

for rocker, check out US Blanks 9’9B or 9’8Y with nose rocker reduced by 1" or 1.5"

try 16" tail 23" wide point at center and 19 nose

that will get you in the ballpark for a noserider specific longboard

widepoint back is more typical of a pig type shape which can noseride well but typically not as easily as a noserider specific board. if you are going for this, take Bills advise and pull the nose in some and also put more curve through the back end. 16-17" for nose and  tail measurements will get you in the right area 

use a heavier foam (i like green or clasic with US Blanks) and glass heavy - momentum is your friend. and keep it thick 3" +. i like round rails all the way off the tail, belly all the way through the bottom and a fairly deep nose concave.

good luck have fun!

Nuff said by the experts here at Sways.

Its easy to tell a first home build in the water cause the nose and tail are often left super thick and overall the foil doesnt taper. Looks like the tip of the nose is an inch thick and 6 inches back is also an inch thick and a foot back maybe 1.5"… it needs to taper out more than that…the nose tip shouldn’t feel like your rail at mid point, it should feel like a nose tip, so maybe go feel some at your local shop. Just keep studying other guy’s boards until you get an eye for what I am describing. Along those same lines, the last 2-3 feet of board in the outline doesnt blend well… it looks like a very abrupt change from the widest point to a straight line toward your tail block.  if you can, study other outlines and notice the subtle curves from WP to the tail block.

Follow the natural rocker curve until you get an eye for surfboards and test your designs to make subtle adjustments to find out what you like. Its easy to plug in the #'s you want as far as tail rocker, nose rocker wp, tail width, etc., but if it doesn’t blend and doesn’t “fit” its gonna turn out bad. …thats my take on the general “first boards” deal, noserider or other design my 2 cents would be the same.

Specifically on the “noserider” design aspect. I like noseriding…alot. I don;t like the term nose rider for a surfboard…people noseride, not surfboards. that being said, how comfortable are you noseriding other less extreme designs? this is why I don’t make boards for myself with 19"+ nose widths, oversized rudder fins, and flipped tail rocker. I feel comfortable noseriding a 16.5 to 17.5" nose…often with “noserider” designs that people make, the boards are slow and more difficult to turn. the best noserides I’ve had are not going slow and perpendicular towards the beach over a mushy part of the wave but rather parallel and hauling ass in the fast wart of the wave. I enjoy this more and build my boards accordingly.

consider my 2 cents but realize that I a not a pro and just make boards in my backyard like you

good luck!

 

old school or new school ? …big difference