I agree there is.
I’m curious, lets take Joel Tudor’s definition of ‘noseriding’ as basically putting some digits over the nose, and if not digits, some part of the foot. That leaves a lot of space (on a longboard at least) for walking around. So lets say some guy takes a couple steps forward, doesn’t make to the nose however, maybe a step back from it. My question is what changes in the (fundamental?) dynamics between where he is and if he took that step forward? (Is it just leverage?)
Or, are all those mechanisms that Tom Wegner suggests are in play only in play when ‘noseriding’ (using Tudor’s definition) or are they in play before you get to the ‘Tudor’ point -i.e. a little piggy hanging over the edge?
I guess the point that’s bothering me is the suggestion from my reading of Wegner’s piece is that there is something (possibly) fundamentally different going on during noseriding, and if there is, there would have to be a transition point between the something that was going on before and that which is going on after. In particular, as the surfer moves forward on the board there is a transition. (And if there is where is that point?)
Don’t get me wrong, I think Wegner’s take is interesting, but for one thing, I don’t think he accounts for the difference in deceleration along the wavefront as the wave is shoaling. The tail of the board if you tuck into into the curl region is actually experiencing a different flow than the more forward region or nose region (see thread, “The Deceleration Wave-Form”)
Or consider this, a surfer can take a couple of steps forward on his longboard and be about as close to the nose as some other guy on a shortboard, who hasn’t moved in position since he stood up. What’s the difference in the (fundamental?) dynamics in this case?
Or. in the end, do you see it as all just a matter of leverage?
On leverage…
By the way, I can’t speak for anyone else, but in my opinion about the best fin (not including all those fins with wings etc. which I’ve never had much interest in) for nose riding was Weber’s Hachet fin – and the fact that it weighed a ton probably didn’t hurt.
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Small beside on the famous ‘spoon under the tap’ experiment.
Water is somewhat sticky, especially if it encounters or is flowing over a somewhat hydrophilic surface.
I suggest that next time you try the spoon experiment, if you are inclined, to watch the flow of water off the end of the spoon. Notice that its in the opposite direction than which the spoon moves (which is seemingly into the flow). The reason the spoon moves into the flow is because its motion counteracting the momentum flow off the tip. Think of this way, you’re on a skateboard and you’re stationary, and you throw a ball forward. The ball will move forward and you will tend to move backward. (Also notice that the ‘spoon’ effect doesn’t really change that much with the speed of the flow.)
Here’s a better experiment, take a piece of flexible plastic or foil or cardboard, bend it into a half pipe and put in under the flow (so the flow is along the long axis). It will move out of the flow. Conclusion: half-pipes create lift? Perhaps. But just about anything getting in the way of a flow will respond similarly. (Try one of those scoops they use for flour or sugar if you think the half-pipe is missing the point.)
I’m not sure why people refer to the spoon experiment as an illustration of Bernoulli’s principle. At least I don’t see it – Occam’s razor provides a much simpler explanation – just account for the momentum transfers.