This is all Tom Wegener, not me. The whole article is here:http://www.noseriding.com/pages/TomWegenertalksWalkingonWater.htm
All of it is worth the read.
"**1.)
The Modern Longboard **
The
modern longboard is characterized by having a flatter bottom, a hard edge through
the tail, a wide nose for noseriding, lots of rocker, and a light glass job.
They are easy to noseride and hang ten, but they noseride best out on the shoulder
and in soft sections. When on the nose, the board points about 45 degrees towards
the shore.
The
modern board will hang ten because the thickness and width of the nose provide
floatation and planing area and the soft rails from nose to midsection suck
water onto the deck. This stabilizes the board within the wave and counter balances
the person on the nose. This is a stable situation until the wave becomes too
steep. As the wave gets steeper the board will become more parallel with the
wave and speed up. As the board speeds up it begins planing on top of the water
and the tail will not suck water onto the deck. Due to the hard rails through
the tail and the flat bottom, there is no curve to suck the board to the wave.
The rider must back pedal off the nose or else the board will literally fall
out of the face of the wave
The
modern longboard will not noseride on a steep face because most of the board
is geared toward releasing water and planing. Its speed is generated by planing
down the surface of a steep wave. The board is designed to be smashing the lip
on a steep wave and not hanging ten
**2.)
The Potato Chip **
In
the late 1990s, the ‘knifey-railed potato chips of the late 1960s were popular
at the ‘Old Mal Rallies.’ Guys like Chris De Aboitz, Gareth Donovan and Ian
Williams rip on them. They’re characterized by thin rails, medium rocker and
roll through the bottom and a single fin. They will nosreide much closer to
the pocket than the modern longboard and they will go a long way before spinning
out. One characteristic is that in a solid ten pose, the tail and fin will often
be hanging out the back of the wave.
The
roll thorugh the bottom of the board sucks the board into the wave. The knifey,
less buoyant rails easily cut into the wave and water is still sucked over the
rail. Most of the board is truly within the wave in the hang ten position. Due
to the rocker in the board and the suction, the board points toward the sore
at about 35 degrees. The rail and the fin will pop out the back of the wave
because the board is not parallel with the wave; besides, the wave is not as
thick in the pocket as compared to the shoulder where the modern longboard noserides.
When the board is in perfect trim and the rider is hanging ten, the curves working
with the buoyance will leave the fin and tail high and dry out the back of the
wave.
**3.)
The Soft-Railer **
The
soft-railer is characterized by the rounded rails, flatter rocker—except for
lift in the tail, heavier in weight, hips towards the tail and a big single
fin. Although this board has been mocked for over 30 years, it will do one thing
clearly better than any other surfboard, it will hang ten beautifully and confidently
in perfect, spinning, small surf.
Where
the progressive flat bottom, light board gets its speed from the steepness of
the wave and planning, the soft-railer gets its **speed from tensions
pushing ** against the board from within the wave. The wave wants to
push the board towards shore, while the fin fights the wave and holds the board
in the wave. This tension pushes the board through the water and across the
wave. Soft-railers go through the water, while modern boards skim on top of
the water. (Of course, each and every board moves because of a bit of each of
these principals, but planning vs. displacement hulls is an accurate way to
think about longboard design.)
**A
big fin creates more tension ** and thus more speed. A big, thick fin
works best. (It takes a big wave before the fin will create more drag than speed.)
The size of the fin has little if anything to do with the looseness of the soft-railer.
It is all about fin placement, foil and tail design.
Having
hips towards the tail is the key to the ultimate noserider. The hips make the
board ride more parallel to the wave. When you are on the nose where the boards
is, say, 18 incheswide, while it is 23 inches in the hips, the attitude of the
board will be more parallel with the wave thus making you travel faster across
the wave. The flatter or straighter the board, the more parallel it can ride.
With more width and foam in the back half of the board, there is more flotation
and volume. **This mass creates more tension ** with the fin and
makes the board go faster. Also, it counters the suction created by the soft
rails and lift in the tail.
With
a properly balanced soft-railer, the elements for the hang ten are in the tail.
As the board speeds up across the wave, the tail will suck into the wave and
the nose will begin to lift up. Even while hanging ten the board will accelerate,
climb in the wave and become more stable. This is how some people are seen hanging
ten in such critical sections, where the front third of the board is out of
the water while the rider is calm, poised, and in complete control."
Post pics of whatever you decide.