Can I use pigmented resin directly on the deck foam to color an inlay? I’ve checked the archives and I believe a couple of you have suggested that to others in the past, I just want to make sure I’m not misinterpreting the responses as I’m pretty stoked with the way numero dos (‘number two’ to the spanish-challenged) is coming along.
Originally I was going to cut a 6oz inlay and glass that with a light blue resin pigment and then a second 6oz clear over the whole deck but I couldn’t see the tape line clearly when cutting my bottom glass so now I have sections where the foam is colored but there’s no glass. I figure I’ll tape off the inlay section, paint it, then glass clear with the double 6oz layers over the deck.
Oh and if I do pigment the foam do I use a foam brush or a regular brush? Do I still put my rice paper logo in between the two glass layers?
Yes, you could brush, or squeege, coloured laminate resin onto the deck. I use about a regular 2" brush. Be sure to strain it, and pour lengthwise a little at a time. Don’t do too fast a mix. As with all pigment jobs keep a little spare in case you may need it later to touch up…
I think what you are wanting to do is called a “foam stain”.
Basically, mask the areas where you don’t want the colored resin to be. Believe it or not, a squeegee is used to spread the colored resin. Your color choice and good touch will determine how even the color becomes. The easiest color is Opaque yellow. Dark blue Tint is the hardest. When you mask have a spillway area where you can collect the excess resin when you do the foam stain. Use Lam resin, pretty strongly pigmented and a pretty hot batch. You can then glass the area and use your laminant images with no problems. The lam should go between the two clear layers of the deck glass… HTH.
Thanks PlusOne. I’m really stoked about how this one is coming out. Numero uno rides nice too! I’ve taken it out a bunch of times and it paddles awesome and rides well (well enough for me, anyway, cause I’m not all that good a surfer).
Foam stain, right on. I think the big difference for this one was working with UV resin and the time it gave me to work. Watching cleanlines in the Master Glasser DVD was a big plus too! Gotta remember the tip about using darker tape. I tried holding a strong shop light under the rails but it only helped a little.
Spillway, good idea. It’ll be a light blue opaque so hopefully I can keep my squeege-ing clean. Thanks for clearing up the laminate question as well.
Yeah, I’ve had to do that trick more than once. Use a good flashlight and have the room pitch black. With the light underneath, you will do a killer job scribing the cut line every time… Good Luck!
