you take gym clss in junior high fake your way through jumping jacks and sit ups …then you drive with one hand manipulating a miriad of objects while driving to pamona yreka woolongong or LBI…this stuff has been reduced to such easy robotic mundane levels theres no reason to concentrate or even be interested…then open the door to an articulated sit-up joseph Pilate style or drive to bolinas at night in an alpha romeo. and you watch listen feel smell hear and whatever that other sense is…if not more senses beyond the stock 5.
The challenge lacking in and of your surf stuff board ,mat ,canoe, sailboat kite Yacht glider ping pong paddle bike that fails to lift your alive state out of that grim darkness that will consume you as well as the the best of humanity... the look out to see the blown out surface is a stoker for a sail or a glider the glass is a stoker for a chippy D.T. lightweght ....BUT...is it so predictable that you fall asleep while tuning the radio and peeling a pomegranite or doing the miriad of krap because the mundane nature of riding Swami's again inconsistant with the same old usual suspects drives you to focusing on the idiosyncracies of fitting a fin thats i/8'; more base than the other FCS copy that you made ... the widh and breadth of alternatives has not even been grazed , you know like in cowboy movies 'are ya hit? ' aa ''nope it only grazed me...... lets keep go'in on to laredo'' How bout gettin hit square on with a concept that is so Plorking clear that it monopolizes your every waking moment so you cant rightly sleep or eat for the anticipation of the next go out ....wouldnt that be refreshingly re-creative...or maybe another top turn boogie glide cut back noseride in line with the usual suspects trying to out fox the guy on the_____ with your____ because he burned you eleven times last swell at the inside section and this____should really give you the edge if this fulfills you swell the legions of comrades are waiting for you at the same old familiar parking spot... get there early to get a good spot...
The endless posibilities rage wildly giving you insight to the fact that the wilderness has not been paved and your mind and body can still run free of gramatical errors and rules of engagement and registration forms breaking out of the common place imprisonment by any means perhaps is only an ideal for those decended from pioneers and the replicant riders are the true species....and only a few can even see outside the bland... ambrose... challenge yourself with your equiptment its uncrowded all the time and just a couple like minded madmen smiling bring the fun boiling to the surface
Ambrose hasnt !! but I been tippin a few and understand him perfecto. Via con Dios .Ambose the travel board awaits cant wait ,Ill donate a fin for the rest of the trip. Aloha KP.
KP- if you didn’t read the FMTB post, then listen-it is permanently mounted above my fireplace.the ONLY way you will get it is to hand ol’ yeller over to me pro bono----
some poor souls only achieve the state I live in by inbibing and abusing…so be it… passing off insight as drunkeness or…madness in my case is convienient for the minds mired in complacent conformity…if you can’t understand then the message isn’t for you… read it later or just resume auto pilot and forget I ever said anything to disuade you from your truth it serves you well…ambrose…what sunday will bring … mateo…dip that board at sunday sunrise service …matt… oooooooohhhh pidas high tide…hopping rocks from Faria to access from the point and snooker pi - oroni past the mountaineering club suckin’ lattes in th shade on the porch…wouldn’t a new west taaste good right now with a twist of seagrass hangin from the ears…
I have that custom new ‘challenge’ on the way .A board like i’ve never had before .
I like challenges like leaving the mini-gun behind and taking the 9’6 longbrd out on an overhead day and try to make the drops. I’m fortunate to surf a spot w/ thin crowds where i can only be a liability to myself.
I’m so tired, tired of waiting, tired of waiting for you…
It’s just a matter of time ° before others start recognizing the patterns that are laid down by the trail blazers like U…ambrose. I looked for the footprints in the sand and knew that my respected elders would be just around the corner surfing that perfect mini freight train right while all the Corky Carroll clones would be making their coffee klatch no-go surf checks back by the farking lot. Back slapping and innuendo about the last surf session threading through the crowd flinging their board at the BACK of some foolhardy kid that would DARE be in their way man NO way did I ever want to be them or be around them. Draw your strength from the ocean - not the crowd mass=mentality. The surfing magazines will get along quite nicely thank you without you lurking at the mini mart thumbing through the mags trying to find the next Miki Dora who will BA the scene sending it spiraling into oblivion permanently to be bought up by the Chinese and sold for half-price bargain basement looks like the real thing but lacks the soul of those guys that went out around the corner. We paid for the war machines and I want them dumped in the ocean to man-make perfect Uluwatu rights and lefts that would pump up the dwindling economy gas price driven USA polarized madness. Tax dollars just sitting in the desert army stuff tanks planes ships just the right shape and mass to lie at the floor of the ocean reef-like for fish life and US to use not Nintendo flipper fingers but cupped more to pull through the water be there now. Download the mp3 that tells you how to reconnect with your inner soul - upload your personal chant to make the crowd disappear - dare to paddle out when you bolt out of bed in the middle of night drenched in sweat from dancing around the signal fire that daddio keeps lit under the pier when it’s time to surf those perfect tubes that only certain surfers see. Are the words burning through your heart Richie-Rich you know who you are support the fuel driven war effort OR park your war toys on the bottom of the sea I’m waiting for your real vote not the TV show rerun every four years that you support. Teach your child to fight for waves fisticuffs on the beach I’ll turn to look and ask my son what goes on there’s a swell over to your right, dad, and we paddled over and got it while all the others stared blankly slack jawed at the fighters we kicked out smiling father/son day made for good feelings not spoiled with rancid behavior. I’m selling a decoder but good luck man if you’re standing at the edge without the right board in your quiver not molded light weight indestructible corporate corn oil finish but more like goose-flesh gotta ride that thing and I know the wave it was made for…you know what I mean? Your move.
The sunday morning lyrical flute drowns out the evangelical pop christian rock from the church next door ,its sunday morning and the inspired words of Henry david drive me to a state positively in accord with an opti-universe,…Y dadddio gives me of what I feel and believe is right with the word and world …gee thanks I now after maple syrup and lime am ready to trace the footsteps along the shoreline to decide which aquatic path holds my solice …the 5 boards on my truck and mat will access the propper tone to harmonize .is it too much to ask ?..not when there are kindred spirits like Yall…ambrose…aloha sunday
sir ambrose- the baptism of fmtb in point waves i s anxiously awaiting the arrival of the long overdo first west of the season…until then i marvel at the beauty of your work!kudos my friend!
and the sword maker sat quietly on the tatami of the samurai’s meditation awaiting the sound of the unsheathing of the spirit sword…ambrose…and the fog of boshido truth peermeated every pore of animate and inanimate in the world
welcome to our planet… be free and evolve to understand your greater self… [thanks for the help evolving , waxy !] and eat good chocolate ice cream…ambrose " …woohoo ! " ‘chip’
