The Ohana beach rentals cam showed waves and whitewater all over the place with big outside corduroy lines reaching a long way, the Surfline report and cams made it sound epic. Is it so? Lets hear a blow by blow of a big one picked up on the way outside :) Thanks
Sets DOH.... A.M. Bowls and # 4's workin......spots between washed out for the most part......some saying the biggest in memory.....but seems to me that the Feb 2010 was equal or bigger.........
Publics and some other lefts towards Diamond Head workin also..............
Ala Wai channel dangerous with close out sets......
[IMG]http://i51.tinypic.com/6itueh.jpg[/IM
rogelio.....
Go to , Hawaiin water shots and chuns reef surf club , for pics of the south swell yesterday , Big BIG bowls.
I’m hitting Trestles/Churchs/Cottons tomorrow through Sunday.
Were in for a nice 4 day run of DOH and/or solid OH surf
almost drowned yesterday… too old for this craziness I guess
should’ve stay at SC and listened to the crew on the beach who said it wasn’t worth it
never saw so many who chose not to go out or who never made it out.
ocean was strong yesterday all ground swell not the typical wind waves you could feel it in the water and how much water was moving
no channels for safety lots of rip
felt like countrty
Just out of water…smaller but still too big for some south shore spots. Surfed 3’s with about 40 others…then on to #4’s with a handful of others…then stopped at Inbetweens on my way to the parking lot. Probably had a total of 10-12 waves and a good work out…time for siesta!! Still a stray DOH…but I would say sets are 6-10 face heights…
rogelio
Hey Bernie,
I almost came around to Ewa yesterday…but trades came up a bit…I sat out yesterday. Where did you go out?
roger
Went out to Three’s yesterday afternoon around 330. The current swept me toward Paradise and made it hard to get out but finally made it. Had my eyes peeled for huge bombs, but I did’nt see a wave over 5 ft. during the two hours I was out. My wave count was at a minimum, 3 in betweeners, due to having to share the line up with what seemed like at least 80 others. It was really nice and clean though.
Outer reef behind my house we towed this morning. The big sets were 24ft faces(no bull sh%t),
The lefts were pure glass but no channel. 45 second plus rides(no bull sh%t again)
The rights were a bit choppy but the wind died down and was fun.
Reminded me of the N shore on the left at avalanche and the left at whale rock.
Not a soul in site, water pristine. What a swell!
I had to work yesterday, so I didn’t see it but I heard it was 10’ hawaiian scale, today it’s 6-8 max. Biggest waves were at high tide. Didn’t see any triple overhead waves today mostly solid double, but the big ones were way out. Faces were easily in the 10’ + range. My friends said town was out of control yesterday. Huge and lots of water moving. Everyone said they ate a lot of donuts. Some surfed at Waikiki others at Bowls. Castles probably had some faces in the 20’ range.
I went out with 2 friends to outside Publics and Cunhas where they surfed yesterday. Still had some good ones this morning, but about 9 it slowed down and seemed to drop some. Perfect day if you had a 9’ to 10’ board.
Everyone said it was a lot bigger and wilder yesterday, and they needed really long boards to catch the waves, especially out at Castles. I rode my 6-6 today, definitely a workout to get into those really fat waves. Only got a handful of waves, but the ones at Publics were really long.
roger
i surfed sharkcountry yesterday morning with about 30 guys some old timers and allot of kids and ex-pros from northshore in the lineup.
it fired all day and from Monday it was big faces were around 10-12 foot but really rideable with long long rides
everyone was complaining about the long paddle back out with smiles but at least you could paddle out through the channel.
the inside doubles were way better, everyone sitting way outside said it was junker than the inside.
everywhere else it was closing out with bombs coming through with the tide.
at least at shark country you can see them coming from ewa beach park and get out of the way if you want. you couldn’t do that so much at sandtracks(haubush park)
i went out later at haubush and made it out after taking a beating and couldn’t get anything that wasn’t a closeout.
i was sitting 25 yards outside of everyone and sit got cleaned up with a monster set that broke 10 yards infront of me with 15 foot faces
ended up getting pushed back inside the break 50 yard after taking another 6 waves on the head and decided to go in inside of fighting the rip and duck diving my way back out through the closeouts outside.
wish i had a video or still camera with a super long lens cause the shots from haubush looking into the pit at sharkcountry were amazing. the surfing was unreal with all the young guns out.
I can imagine the outside reefs by charlie’s must have been epic. Seem like the surf in the outside reefs were the spots to be at cause most of the inside breaks were closing out. Barbers must have been a lifeguard’s nightmare with all the beginners.
there was so much water being pushed into the beach that there was these makaha like backwash scenes with the water trying to come off the beach meeting the incoming waves. and the rip was insane if you paddled out at haubush park and didn’t make it you ended up past chicken creek near the original haubush before you could see day light again.
never saw so many hard cor regulars just sitting on the beach not wanting to go in.
Wow Bernie…I would have enjoyed watching the goings on out there at shark country. I had thought that the outer reefs would have knocked down the swell and it wound have been more manageable in the Ewa zone. At least you gave it a go…I was gonna just paddle out and watch the few guys at 4’s…but I was not comfortable and it did not seem like a good day to die!!!
roger
Great replys gang :) :) Me and friends are sitting here in San Diego with a south shore surf map learning your spots and laughing it up big, great commentary, keep the monster surf and surf stories coming.
China Walls was a bit out of control Tuesday pm - C&C chopper was out looking for someone from about 5-6pm. Chased more waves(on an 8’6"-still duck divable) than I got. I won’t speculate as to exactly how big, but it was very good sized. The current was nuts. Today I took the day off and went more inside to around the outside of where Blue Moons usually breaks. There were less lulls and I think it was cleaner and more consistently bigger on the sets - tide was low too. I didn’t realize that wave had a bowl section until today - usually it’s a roller. I caught 3x as many waves as yesterday, but still got mowed down around noon by the biggest set I saw all day, 50-60 yds past the last channel marker. That was on the 10’3" with no leash - a way better paddler but no leash plug. I’m going to rest my spaghetti arms and go again on Friday, not sure where. Aloha, M
These images off Hawaii Water Shots website…some great photos there!!!
http://hotsurfphotos.smugmug.com/Other/HUGE-BOWLS-08-30-2011-AM/18803741_kjr6fz#14564145
This buoy guides boaters into the harbor. From this view you are to stay to the right…but if your timing was not good…
Sometime after mid afternoon Tuesday this buoy broke loose. They have it tied up on the breakwall.
Today was clean and fun with still solid overhead sets…I surfed the left at Rockpiles with a just a few guys…
roger
Howzit Roger, Is that boat in the harbor channel,you know it's good sized hen it breaks there. Aloha,Kokua
then you must have seen the sick spot called nunya bizness at the intersection of ufa and ufaka street