Observed Behavior

I have come to the conclusion that surfers enjoy nothing more than to steal another man’s thunder. Here are just a few examples submitted for your approval. Note that all names have been changed to protect the ignorant. (Scenario 1 - In the shaping room) Bob: I saw that funboard blank sitting on your stands. You starting another board? Stan: Yeah, it’s an experimental design that I’m working on. Bob: Oh? Stan: Yep, my concept is to incorporate horizontal channels with a 12 fin venturi bottom configuration. I wanna make something that’s completely different from what’s been done in the past. Bob: Hmmm… Stan: A little overwhelming I know. I don’t expect you to… Bob: Actually, I was going to suggest that you tweak the angle of the three outer sets of channels. I shaped a few boards exactly like that in the late 1960’s. It’s an interesting design, but she bogs down in beach breaks. Stan: Oh… Bob: Hey, I’ll bring my templates by if you want to take a look. Good luck on the shape! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- (Scenario 2 - The beach parking lot) Garth: Nice set of keel fins ya got there. Chris: Thanks. It’s a VINTAGE Bonzer! Check out these dual concaves running through the… Garth: Yeah… I saw 'em. Chris: Interesting history about this board… my uncle worked with the Campbell brothers! This is one of their first prototype Bonzers! Garth: Ahh that would explain why the laminate looked so familar. I have 4 boards just like that stashed under the house somewhere. Mine aren’t brown and faded though. Chris: Really? Garth: For real. How’s Malcolm doing by the way? I had lunch with him last week but haven’t talked to him since. Chris: Oh… I don’t… Garth: No biggie. I’ll probably stop by his shop today to pick up my 5-finner. See ya in the water bro! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ (Scenario 3 - In the water) Surfer 1: Wow! Killer late drop on that last wave dude! I didn’t think you were gonna pull it! Surfer 2: Thanks. Surfer 1: It’s so crowded out here today! I guess that’s to be expected with the first big swell of the season. Have you been out long? Surfer 2: Couple hours. Surfer 1: The waves are all-time! Perfect! I’ve been surfing here for years and NEVER saw it this good! Unreal huh? Surfer 2: It’s alright. There were some bigger sets right before you came out, but the tide came up. The wind switched around too. Surfer 1: Damn…

Yeah, it’s a phenomenon alright. Actually, I wrote about this over on the surfermag forum a few months ago… (kidding, kidding!)

You should have been here yesterday.

You should have been here yesterday.

the one I like the best is to have been there yesterday and know the truth…Extended family sibling torture … so many…only children desperate to tease anyone… aloha in another form will smell as sweet …only when it becomes malicious …is it a negative… so many brothers so little oppertunity ambrose patiently waiting a turn to surf…God Bless early Earl Broglie R.I.P. to be teased no more

Howzit Ambrose, Did earl pass away? I haven’t seen Krow for a while and I know he was a good friend of Earl’s. When did it happen, we;ll miss him in the line-up. Aloha, Kokua

earl went… fell over at the computer early wednesday?morning …blood clot ? was taking anti clot medicine for years after a leash wrap incident in big waves…wife found’im on the floor…gone earl

Howzit Ambrose, Talked with Bug yesterday and he filled me in on the particulars. The gatekeeper has passed on, I wonder who got the keys to Hanalei.Aloha, Kokua

Sad…my condolences to his friends and family–in the context of death, all of our larky comments turn sour and their sparkling lustre dulls. I never knew Earl, but here in middle age hardly a day does by that I don’t see yet another compadre peel away towards the Other Shore, and I realize a little more intently that my time will come as well, and yours. In an earlier chapter of my life, I knew John Ritter, I knew Robert Palmer… Life is for living! For me, it’s art, children, women, waves, love! Or else…