old school stripes on longboard

Dear all,


I am currently making a longboard as a project with some students at my school. The board was glassed and then we added a yellow pigment into the hotcoat. It worked relatively well, though a bit blothy in places and a couple of bubbles. After researching some old school longboards we thought we would like to add some vertical stripes, probably in black. How was this done in the good old days?? Can we use tape and resin with a black tint onto the hotcoat and then gloss? Would it be better to paint on the stripes with an acrylic paint? 


Finally, what is different about a gloss coat to a hot coat? Is it something to do with adding wax???






Don’t do acrylic. Do resin with a good amount of opaque pigment. Gloss coat has added styrene, but both have paraffin wax.

 I am not an old timer, so maybe one can chime in and tell you how it was done then.

Hope this helps you

Thanks for the advise. One last thing. Would you just mark the edges of the lines with good quality tape and then using a brush paint on the tinted resin? Then when it is dry add the gloss coat?? Does this leave a raised line where the resin stripes are painted?






do your pigmented panels in hotcoat resin. sand the area to 150.. Tape off with 233 3M tape.  if you are going for straight lines, use a 1/1/2 wide tape...it will make a straighter line with less wobble.   Mix up the hot coat resin..Mix in the color...then add a bit more....make sure it is opaque enough...test it on ascrap chunk of something.   Now paint it on the areas and let it set up nice and smooth.   Pull the tape when the resin is the consistency of peanut butter.  Let kick.  if there are any fuzzy lines you can clean it up with a razor blade wrapped in sand paper.   Now lightly sand the pannel smooth to get out zits  with 220.....errr... sand the entire board, and golss coat....let kick real hard, then buff out.

The trick is wet the panels out...then walk away...just walk away.  Don't fuss with it, don't keep hitting it with your brush, etc...just lay it down smooth, and let gravity smooth it mirror flat before the catalyst kicks in.

Some of the "Old Timer Pros" will chime in here and say....dangnam it! back in the day..we only used.. X  you got to use gloss resin for those pannels....well  gloss resin it too thin in my opinion.  But if you lest the gloss resin sit out for a week, then it just about right when the styrene is all gone.

You can also spray acrylic paint and gloss over that. I've done that a bunch too....But you better be one good sander. Because if you burn through the color you got to spray and patch...then you will be spray and patching all over the place trying to blend in with out burning through other areas.

But let's see what the "Old Pros" have to say first before you go doing it my new fandanged way?!

One more thing...


The old guys are going to come after you for not putting the color in the lamination, and do a cut lap.  Tha'ts how you get a good rich deep color.. But you probably already figured that one out.

Oldschool color pinline is taped off with a good chem safe tape. Using lots of black in gloss resin to make sure it is very opaque. You will pull the tape just before it kicks hard. It may have a little bleeding but don’t worry after it is hard come back with a razor blade and scrape away the edge. Then take a small pieces of sandpaper the width of the razor blade and fold it over the edge of the blade and run it along the edge to get a really clean and tight edge.

Then sand the black pinline just enough to dull it to get a good bond. Just taking the shine off is all ya need to do. It will be raised a bit higher the rest of the gloss which is fine. That is how oldschool pinlines look. 

I was a polisher/sander for many years and back in the day we had to sand down them flush to the rest of the gloss. VERY tricky to do so don’t worry about perfection and focus on technique 

Good luck

Thanks guys, this forum is incredible. So much knowledge and know how out there…I have a lot to learn.


Thanks again.