Yah, Ambrose! The White Canoe Wave! Then campfire, beers, bbq. The Maverick’s committee forgot my invitation again this year…
Isn’t resinbutt that 6 foot 8 inch kneeboarder that surfs the pier?
What the photos don’t show Tomas is the impeccable detail and craftsmanship. Mike
Even in my distorted photos, Cansas looks beautiful ! What a setting to wake up to each day.
Yah, cansas is a ruff place to live. Mike
I try to look at it through the eyes of a tourist so I don’t take it all for granted. The coast is equally as beautiful. Fickle place to surf, but beautiful. Mike
Saw another golden eagle before our hike today, too, Bill. Mike
Actually, Mike I could see the craftsmanship in the total lack of even the smallest foam tears around the 3/4" stringer. And that stringer, what beautiful piece of wood. That kind of finish detail takes the right tool, the right touch and the right attitude. “Impeccable” is right. Lamination and polish pretty impressive, too.
Eh Mike,
In ways you are fortunate.
A real red dot.
A “Heavy cruiser” (see Janes warships).
So.
And LOL
the ride report…
A burden for sure…
Bad News!
Eh Mikey,
Don’t (if you do) drink New Year’s Eve.
Saturday is looking good!!!
Your ever humble surf prognosticator.
I gotta say, one reason I am glad I started building surfboards, is so I can appreciate a true craftsman. I believe I have the template and rocker for this board, yet I could not see this board coming out, the foil blows my mind. Not trying to kiss any ass here, just spent several months trying to realize this board. I am mind surfing the hell out of her ;)
Beautiful board, Bill!
Bill, is that the same template you used for the board you built for Bird a few years ago?
No. He does not have an example of that shape.
OK. Ride report. I surfed the board today in clean offshore conditions. The surf was head high with a few overhead sets. A beach break north of cansas. The board Bill built me is a 7-9. My longest board other than my longboard. It is also heavier than my other boards. It paddles fast and catches waves easily. I was surprised that in the water the board did not feel longer or heavier than what I’ve been riding so far this winter(7-2 and 7-4). It felt lively. It took a couple of waves to get a feel for the sweet spot as I tried to drive to the bottom and square off a bottom turn. I may move the fin forward 1/2 inch. Most of my waves I found the trimline, or let the board find it, and had a blast zipping across the face. The looks I got in the parking lot walking to the water was fun, too. A couple guys in the water noticed it and wanted to have a look at the board. Lots of smiles. A good time. More surf on the way. I love winter.
Hey Matt. I like a few beers or a couple of glasses of local red wine( cansans wine) and occasionally a shot or two of tequilla. But, I haven’t woken up with a hang over since New Years Day 1990. I decided then life is too short to waste a day with a hang over and miss out on the surf. The same conclusion I came to earlier that got me away from other destructive indulgences of my youth. Too bad more of my buddies didn’t keep the surfing addiction and lose the others. I’ll be up early again this New Year’s Day. Sober. Mike
I should also add this, since this thread received a good bit of interest. Working with Bill T. was great. Not only did he keep me updated on every step of the process and cost involved, but he was genuinely stoked the whole way. By the process and especially excited and stoked on the delivery of my board. He was stoked! Still stoked even after shaping for 57-58 years. A gremmie at heart if I can say that. Mike
@
thats art right there
Good one for both of you. Lowel
Glad to finally hear a ride report. Hope you get some more good ones on it. That thing felt and looked amazing. Pictures don’t quite capture it.
That surfboard design, has an interesting history. The concept of a single board for both large waves AND small waves, began in the heart of the ‘‘longboard era.’’ The search began as a 10’ 2’’ x 22’’ board with an 8 inch wide SqTail. The intended use was for waves 2 feet to 20 feet. Board weight, as I recall, was about 32 pounds. Normal, for that time period. There was a blending of both gun features and ‘‘normal’’ board features. Flash forward to 1969, and the short board revolution. By that time I had refined the board down to 7’ 10’’ x 21’’ to a 7 inch SqTail. Board weight was now 14 pounds. It was magical in it’s behavior in the water. It was my personal design, and I only made the design for a few close freinds, as well as my own personal boards. It was never offered as a ‘‘model’’ for the general surfing public. I later pared the weight down to 12 1/2 pounds, 7’ 10’’ x 21’’ to a 7inch SqTail. I rode that board in waves at La Jolla Shores, as well as WindanSea, with winter trips to the North Shore. Maximum waves I personally rode with that board, was solid 15 foot waves at Sunset. The board’s performance exceeded my hopes and expectations, for it, in the larger surf.
You know you should get someone to post up that pic of you surfing La Jolla. The one in the "San Diego " story in that early Surfer I sent you. Great pic. I’m sure someone could scan it for you and post it. The one used in your avatar is a Sunset shot. Right?? What year was it taken?? Lowel
Aloha Lowel,
The photo you referenced, was taken @ La Jolla Shores, circa early 1963, by a local photographer Roy Porello. The avatar photo was taken @ Sunset, circa Oct/Nov 1968, by ‘‘Tex’’ Wilson. Both Roy and Tex were frequent contributors to Surfer Magazine. The La Jolla Shores photo was the only time in over two years, that I had worn a wetsuit. It was my third go-out that morning, so I borrowed a too small ‘’ Beaver Tail’’ top, because it was sooooo cold, due to the strong offshore Santa Ana winds that day.
EDIT: The photo appeared in vol.4, # 4, on page 17, of Surfer Mag. Aug/ Sept 1963 issue. Part of a spread called ‘‘San Diego Scene.’’
??