Artz, I’m sorry if I am hijacking your thread.
Life is a wild ride, and it’s a little different for each person. Ever since I was in the fifth grade all I ever wanted to do was surf. I look at life as surfing. You get a wave and once it’s over you have to paddle out to get the next one. If you want to ride waves, you need to paddle out to where they break. Sometimes paddling out is easy, sometimes it’s nearly impossible. You have to know when it’s OK to paddle out and when it’s not, and for everyone it will be different. Outside the water you still have to deal with the hassles, I think of it as paddling out in heavy water, dealing with crowds. You still have to get around obsticles, I think about it as making it past a section. Sometimes you wipe out, you just have to hope you can get back out or in safely.
Yesterday, I went out even though it was ugly. I ran into a high school friend I haven’t seen for a while and I was so happy for that. I told him that it was a nice Xmas present. Then while I was sitting I hear someone calling my name and it’s my cousin who grew up surfing Shark Country with us. His family had one of the beach houses fronting the break. Another great xmas present. The waves sucked, but I spent a lot of time talking with friends and family. That is what I look forward to, seeing friends and sharing time together, talking about all the fun crazy things we did way back when.
Both my friend Darrell and cousin Mikey are very positive people. Their energy is good to be around and I needed some of that. On Christmas Eve, I got home from surfing and my wife called to say her car was hit while she was at the market. No one hurt, but the bumper has some damage. While she was trying to sort out insurance and contact details, she was getting calls from me and her best friend. Too much happening, so she didn’t call her friend back till she got home. Turns out her best friend’s husband had just died from a heart attack. I haven’t seen my wife cry so much ever. She and Rach have been best friends since childhood. We are still numb and in shock.
Tell those you are close to how much you care about them, try to do what you can to help others. We need to keep the positive vibe up or we’ll all get pulled down. My wife doesn’t understand why I give bums money, and she often gets angry at me, but I still do it. That person in need could be related to someone you know.
I enjoy coming to Swaylocks, reading posts and learning. I have been amazed at all the knowledge I see here. I have been blessed with meeting so many surfing legends including the ones from my own home town. Thank you all for your input, a real special Mahalo Nui Loa to those who keep the stoke going, and may god bless Mike Paler for giving us this place to gather and share.
Aloha, and I hope to meet you (again for some) in 2013 to share waves and good times and surf stories.