What gives meaning/definition to the names we have for different forms of surfing? One of the things that impresses me about this photo is the timeless, fast, clean, finless line the (adult) rider is experiencing on that flat piece of wood! Imagine substituting that piece of modern plywood flotsam for a sophisticated, ancient Hawaiian finless design with a thin-railed displacement hull, and that ride could just as easily have been witnessed 1000 years ago. Gives me tingles just thinking about it… Ever wonder if the Ancients tried stabilizers/fins on their hull designs, but rejected them for some unknown reason? Some might assume that wave riding centries ago was crude, and that its practitioners hadnt yet thought of using stabilizers under their boards. I find that nearly impossible to believe. I guess thats one of surfings little mysteries... Ill always wonder if their finless designs were simply a choice. Fluent on everything from canoe, to surfboard, to surfmat… a waterman friend on Kauai wisely observed, “The first removeable fin was a paddle.” http://www.momentoffame.com/snapshot.html?id=36463
“With the power…of soul…anything is possible”!..(Jimi Hendrix/“Bert”[later on]). Have seen this in Africa; and you should see what the kids in Hawaii do with their lunchroom trays!
They couldnt figure out a need to invent the wheel. So why would they ever have thunk of the skeg? Dream on…
Made my day, Dale! I can’t help but think that this rider isn’t to concerned with whether or not his surfcraft is hewn from a locally available material, an imported high tech molded laminate from “overseas” or just the floor board from his skiff, he’s having FUN. A walk down the beach can yield all sorts of interesting dunnage and materials for riding waves. Tom S.
Didn’t think it was possible, but this photo made me love surfing a little bit more.
Hi Fred, Q:" What do hollow surfboards, surfmats and Fred W’s head have in common? " A: “…nothing but AIR inside.” “…SHUT UP FRED.” “Do I have your attention Fred, GET REAL!!!” “…but English 101 was rough, huh Fred?” Please ignore posts by this individual, he is not showing any respect to the nature of this forum. Bye Fred
Beyond what the board is doing, imagine getting to your feet on a finless, square board almost as wide as it is long, putting your feet in exactly the right position to maintain trim, crouching in a pose that Phil Edwards, Lance Carson, Gerry Lopez or Tommy Curran would be proud of and, above all…not losing your hat! Newbs
Made my day, Dale! I can’t help but think that this rider isn’t to concerned >with whether or not his surfcraft is hewn from a locally available material, >an imported high tech molded laminate from “overseas” or just the floor board >from his skiff, he’s having FUN. Nicely put Tom. FUN is the soul of surfing. regards, Håvard
and fun is timeless…
You guys are killing me.I can’t get the picture for some reason and I gotta see it. R.B.
Reminds me of a pic I think Dick Meseroll (in Surfers Journal) took of a guy somewhere in the Caribbean. Trimming perfectly along a beautiful wall on what looked like a log.
If i am not mistaken, that photo was shot by Ron Edwards in Barbados- I have another print of the same guy dragging his hand on a glassy face. Perfect style! Photoshop a 9’6" under his feet and he’d win his heat in a longboard contest.What a fun looking wave too!
Thanks Tom.Funny thing is used to see groms doing this on Paipo boards at Kuhio Beach,Hawaii in 1963.I caught my first wave there on a plywood board borrowed from a local.I never rode like the guy in that pic though. R. Brucker