along the lines of admired shapers, i’m curious to hear what people would choose if they could only have ONE board(oh the horror)…Surfer mag. asked this one but i’d like to know what folks here would say…as for myself, i’ve gone up and down in size and i’m currently digging the no nonsense utilitarian variety. right now i’m on a 6’10" x 19" x 2 3/8"(11"n 14 1/4t") squash. rips as hard as i want(or can might be better) but gives me a little edge on the 6’2" crowd…goes good from 2-10’ and fits in my 7’6" travel bag. anyway, what would it be? one world, one board, (but still three fins)…
Great Question! 7-0, 13,21,14 3\4, 2 5\8 thick, slight forward v, double concave, tucked edge all the way to nose, 5 fin.
A Longboard 1) I can still surf when I’m too old/lazy to ride a shortboard. 2) Most of the time the waves are crappy. I can still have fun in 6" surf with a log. I can also take it out on bigger days. (may be a bit of a challenge tho) 3) I can use it to teach someone how to surf and watch them standup and ride a wave for the first time. 4) Logs are usually more durable than other surf craft. 5) Better re-sale value. If I decide to give it all up and throw in the towel, I can at least make a few $$$. 6) If I see the man in the grey suit circling around I can pull up my hands and feet and kiss my longboard. 7) If I get tired of all the length, I can chop the thing in half and whittle myself a fish. 8) I’ve been riding shortboards for so long now. If I’m going to be stuck with one board I want something that’s still holding onto some secrets. I want to explore all of it’s different personalities and moods.
6’8"x 21" egg 2+1 fins, or a 7’0"x…tough question! Scott.
6’6" rounded pin… no mas no menos!!!
After getting tired of taking a couple of boards everyday (5 minutes ride anyway), I decided to look for something more open to any condition. I’ve found the 7’ x 21’’ egg, a pretty good solution. Fun to ride on small waves and still able to duck dive good and get anything sizeable. But anyway we all know that one board is too easy. A good longboard and a shortboard in the 6’8’‘-7’2’’ range could cover anything surfeable, at least for me. Saludos!
Great Question!>>> 7-0, 13,21,14 3\4, 2 5\8 thick, slight forward v, double concave, tucked > edge all the way to nose, 5 fin. I’ll take Tom’s dimensions, but make it a five fin Champbell Bros. Bonzer shaped by Malcolm Campbell. In fact I’ve got 2 or 3 just like that in my garage right now (along with a dozen or so more of Malcolm’s boards of varying lengths and planshapes). Took this board( but 6’10") to the Mentawai’s June '00 and to Morocco Jan. '01. Works in a wide range of size and conditions. 7’5"A blank w/ natural rocker, like them very flat w/ some foam under my chest, old school.
Once a longboarder, always a longboarder. Even at a meager 170 pounds, give me a 10 footer with a single fin. My all time favorite however and one of four in the quiver is a 10’ eliminator shaped by Bob Bolen. Step deck, concave on the deck at the tail, etc.etc. Aloha, Still, an Old Longboarder
along the lines of admired shapers, i’m curious to hear what people would > choose if they could only have ONE board(oh the horror)…Surfer mag. > asked this one but i’d like to know what folks here would say…as for > myself, i’ve gone up and down in size and i’m currently digging the no > nonsense utilitarian variety. right now i’m on a 6’10" x 19" x 2 > 3/8"(11"n 14 1/4t") squash. rips as hard as i want(or can > might be better) but gives me a little edge on the 6’2" crowd…goes > good from 2-10’ and fits in my 7’6" travel bag. anyway, what would it > be? one world, one board, (but still three fins)… Probably something made out of a 7’11R superblue, never had a bad shape from this blank! A 7’8" 21"wide roundpin trifin can handle and catch anything and is gonna still fit in a car! Does all manuevers except maybe the tightest of cutbacks in mush, but as far as forward pumping and power carving…look out!!!
If I could only have One board it would have to be one that was fun in a lot of different surfing conditions on the east coast. After all that is what the sport is all about fun in the surf. It should ride the nose turn easy and project down the line It would probably be an 8’x 22.5" x 3" rounded pen with some volume, slight double concave in the tail with the very slight concave going all the way to the nose (this will make it stable). if you want a longer board to be forgiving the rails have to be soft 50/50 of 60/40 if you want it to project down the line hard as a knife about a foot from the tail. if you want to be able to get into waves easy then you don’t want to much rocker. If you want all this in a board that you can still push to the limit you need a thruster setup. if you want it strong and lite epoxy and eps foam is the way to go. From all I’ve read this is it.
9’3"x23"x3", 17" nose, 13" tail ending in a 3" squash. This thing can catch anything (most valuable in a crowd) and makes the most out of anything…ankle slappers to head bangers…steep or mushy. It can carve like my 7’6" and noserides better than my 9’6" (still not sure why). It’s a 2+1 (all boxes), but it feels the nicest without the side biters.
One peaceful world, with 5 to 7 foot glassy waves and my 9’6" singlefin. 70 degree water temp would be nice too. It may be too much to ask for.>>> If I could only have One board it would have to be one that was fun in a > lot of different surfing conditions on the east coast. After all that is > what the sport is all about fun in the surf. It should ride the nose turn > easy and project down the line It would probably be an 8’x 22.5" x > 3" rounded pen with some volume, slight double concave in the tail > with the very slight concave going all the way to the nose (this will make > it stable). if you want a longer board to be forgiving the rails have to > be soft 50/50 of 60/40 if you want it to project down the line hard as a > knife about a foot from the tail. if you want to be able to get into waves > easy then you don’t want to much rocker. If you want all this in a board > that you can still push to the limit you need a thruster setup. if you > want it strong and lite epoxy and eps foam is the way to go. From all I’ve > read this is it.
along the lines of admired shapers, i’m curious to hear what people would > choose if they could only have ONE board(oh the horror)…Surfer mag. > asked this one but i’d like to know what folks here would say…as for > myself, i’ve gone up and down in size and i’m currently digging the no > nonsense utilitarian variety. right now i’m on a 6’10" x 19" x 2 > 3/8"(11"n 14 1/4t") squash. rips as hard as i want(or can > might be better) but gives me a little edge on the 6’2" crowd…goes > good from 2-10’ and fits in my 7’6" travel bag. anyway, what would it > be? one world, one board, (but still three fins)… As much as I love riding my 6’4" fish, if I had to keep one board, it would be a 9’0" longboard like the one I sold last year to a kid on Kauai. It had kinda low rails, 17 1/2"nose, 22in. width, 13" hips and 5" square tail. A basic flat to v bottom. Single fin. You could surf it traditional or modern, get tubed with it and noseride too. Have to work on making one just like that one again…
A Hollow W.A.V.E. 7-6 BREWER SWALLOWTAIL SINGLE? NAH…My 8-1 chargedgun.