Hi all. Ive been attempting to make my own boards for a little while, and am obsessed with using pigment when I glass.
I understand now that you need to add white and/or black to your pigment in order to get it opaque.
I was wondering what sort of ratio you would need to use to be able to get a pigment opaque so that you wouldnt be able to see the stringer? I first started adding lots of pigment by itself, but this turns out as really dark tint (which doesnt look so bad). I have tried adding some white to some pigment but it basically just changes the shade of colour. How much pigment (of color and white) would need to be added to 1 litre of lam for example?
I don’t add any white or black to these unless I want a color change. Test the opaque of your uncatalyzed mix on a piece of cloth over scrap foam marked with a big line using a black sharpie or posca.
Thanks very much. I was just checking out the pigment brand I have been using, and apparently they are an opaque pigment. (I didnt realise there was opaque and transparent pigments). I have only been adding small amounts (teaspoon at most) for previous glass jobs so i’ll be trying a fair bit next time for sure. I generally make boards 9’ + and usually mix myself about 1300ml of lam per side. would anybody know if about 25ml (5teaspoons) of pigment would do the job?
I normally use a little over a quart resin per side on a longboard. All pigments vary in intensity, so you have to check them. If you’re doing the same color both sides, mix both sides at once (don’t catalyze both obviously) and divide in half. For a blue or green of the 2 oz. opaques from Foam-EZ, I use about 1/3-1/2 of the jar per side. Yellows and reds may need more. Always use a paint stick and mix very thoroughly and let it sit a few minutes for the air to rise before you catalyze. I use 1/2% catalyst for clear lams, which is about 5 cc per quart. For heavy pigmented lams, I’ll go 7-8 cc. All clear hotcoats should be at least 1% or 9-10 cc per quart. Never change the 1 to .45 weight mix ratio for epoxy even if pigmented heavy. Weigh the resin + pigment then calculate the .45 hardener.
Pigments vary. I get mine from Surf Source and Foamez. I just did a navy blue opaque deck inlay. I used blue and added some black. One trick I have used over the years for opaques is looking at the stir stick. I use tongue blades to stir in the pigment and I will keep adding pigment until I cant see through the resin on the stir stick.
If it looks opaque on the blond stir stick it usually good to go. I add a little pigment at a time so I don’t over do it and poison the resin. I am getting ready to go cut the glass on the inlay in a few minutes. I will come back and post some pics. Opaque deck inlays are tricky so I am praying it didn’t bleed under the tape. Even an old glasser like me can fu%# up.
