Open letter to Greg Loher: Thanks for the new design

Thanks a lot RH. You know the whole idea was to allow everyone to make a cutting edge piece of equipment in a simple, easy manner. Shape it once, bring it out of the shaping room, bag it once and do a simple glass job. With all due respect to the compsand guys, this is easier. And technically a different product which is why I recoined it Timberflex.

I got the same results that you got on my trip to the north shore last fall. Board rode great and was tough as nails … and light. My hope is that everyone here will eventually add one of these to their quiver and give the whole method the shot it deserves.

thanks again.

…GL, the only way that this method doesnt die in the dark is reaching world wide exposure

not only in couple of cities

high density whatever for the rails are truly difficult to achieve in most places (to build your own blank)

blanks just ready, only in few places in USA

bamboo or others ultra difficult, more in those thickness

-boards with only 1 type of looking

very good for real surfers (and open minded; think teenagers that “eat” surfmags and see other type of look)

but not for the masses

why bother with the masses?

to make a living with those type of methods…

S. America has urethane blank makers. That’s who makes my foam. Talked with one guy down there who does tow in blanks in Brazil. He said no problem. That’s the density of the rails. EPS is everywhere. There are 300 varieties of veneers many of them come from SA all with different looks. Bamboo is everywhere as well , and reasonable in price. Veneers can be painted and even airbrushed for those who want that look. OK so it’s some effort to source everything but it’s all there and available worldwide …

There are also variations on the basic theme here that can take this far beyond just this basic idea. Performance can be dramatically enhanced. And yes these should be more expensive … nothing wrong with making a Ferarri. If I were making boards right now this is what I’d be making. According to the guys who are making these, this is the only thing selling right now because people are looking for value and this is the best value you can buy.

Hey Greg

I’m keen to do a timberflex just don’t have warvel blank or bamboo veneer or 2oz glass or…

What I do have is a large block of 19kg/m foam , 16mm corecell sheets , some 2400 x 1200 x .6 mm kauri pine veneer , 4oz glass and a shit load of epoxy . My question is can I get close to the performance you talk about with timberflex and if so what build schedule would you use with these materials ?

Anyone else with experience in this construction method or variations on the timberflex method please chime in.

Cheers

Mooneemick

Im just wondering who is making these for retail?

Hey Guys,

Lovely board RH, its awesome you have found the build that works for you and your surfing.

Hey Greg, pm’ed you ahwhile back bout builds, but anywho i have taken my own aproach to the timberflex realm due to the info from you and others. I dont want to say to much just yet bout it, but this board is 2# core with veneer top and bottom etc. but it does not have hd rails or rail stringers it will get instead 2x 4oz top and bottom fully wrapped rails.

i figured the weight i save on missing these bits will allow a heavier glass schd to compensate for flex. Question is do you think this glass schd will give me adequite flex? i have done eps 2# no stringer with 12oz top and bottom wrapped rails and it works very well but i thought maybe i can reduce glass due to the inherent stiffness of the veneers too?

the reason is i wanted to reduce cost for myself and keep it as simple as possible to keep build time to minimum, as alot of you know its a ballancing act to do this + family + surf + day job etc. so any time i can minimise in the garage is great.

Cheers

Shannon

I love when people take basic ideas and find ways to approach it differently. In other words nice work. Find ways to build what works for you, in the shop and in the water. My original idea is only a starting point from which to work. My only advise is to kiss … keep it stupid simple.

I’ve built them a number of ways. Used WMD’s, used straight EPS with glass tape on the rail. I’ve done sheet foam too, I like veneers better and you do have those. W’ve done 1/16th inch veneers as well which is about 1.5mm … it was overkill. I think the pine you have is the right stuff. We have built a number of boards with no veneer backing on the bottoms and 4 oz backings on the deck and 4 oz over each side. You could do corecel rails too. Seems to me you have everything.

Some guys in FL are already on it. They claim to be selling well.

Hey Greg, I’m glad to see the good feedback for the Timberflex tech, but we gotta get the ol’ seal hunter to go back to the title of the thread and correct his spelling of your name. You’re probably used to seeing it spelled every which way (I’m sure used to people adding an ‘‘s’’ to my last name), but it would be nice to see it correct in the title. RH probably needs to clean the seal blood off his keyboard so he can see the letters…

Yea, I’m happy t-flex is getting some reviews … and Coil continues as well in that vein as well. Spelling? I’m not too worried … I know who he meant and I certainly am appreciative. BTW, I hear Coils (see I added an S) is still busy too.

We’re very grateful to be very busy, you ‘‘s’’-adding jokester.

Hi Shannon,

Just finishing my first with #2 rails (it’s much easier to cut the rails off a machine shape than to add rails and reshape).

Cut rails off even 100mm (~2") all round. The rail sections were really floppy in the thin tail I have.

Used 6oz cloth to glue the rails on. Using FGI resin - not ideal (not UV stable), but convenient.

Used 4oz top and bottom under 0,4mm bamboo veneer. Kept it really dry (50/50 cloth to resin ratio, by weight).

Had to bevel the veneer edge because there was too much of a lip.

Even with the problems of insufficient vacuum (and a few days with clamps and syringes), the blank is already too stiffer than I’m used to.

Glassing with a single 4 top and bottom with 2 layers on rails to protect them. Photos and ride report next week.

I figure that even if the rails get dinged , water can only enter the rails, so the core is protected somewhat.

Next one will only be veneered top and glassed bottom. Also looking at webs to use under the veneers, rather than cloth.

I concur with Mike Daniels - this is a great build technique that has really set my imagination free. Thanks Greg.

Red

PS Of course I know it’s Daniel. Just pullin’ your chain.

Hey Red,

thats a good idea to isolate most of the core from rail damage, seems very doable actually, might try it on the next one.

i will seal the area of the board that is not covered by veneer with micro and epoxy it should help with compression strength somewat on the rails too. it also should help true up the edge the veneer leaves.

im glad to here that it is stiffer rather than floppy, id raher have a stiffy than a floppy any day! seriously.

real floppy boards suck.

sorry for the ineundo. Haha

shan

MDs, glad to see you back!

: )

I had a really sarcastic response for all you funny men (and I use the term loosely), but it disappeared when I clicked ‘‘post reply’’.

Men?? where? Are there men that actually surf … ???

I remain,

LOL,

Your faithful servant,

; )

ha ha ha =)

found this one while searching

Sounds like the biz…