open letter to run

woke to comotion

the guy rom down the street,new guy

is scouting fins for a friend

730 appt for surf lesson forth day

of bitchin conditions for eastside neighborhood

3 days ina row at black rock two seshionz in mat mind

the 37#board with the paddle in between

cross training is required for the aging process.

then the third day 12’ surfboard kneel paddle with the new paddle

exaustion alayed by following the three guy rule

,go away ater the third guy comes out,

then back out with the twelve and do two more hours

today day 4

surf lesson guy is blind in one eye and 8 opperations in the other

by the time we paddle out every body left

water clear with cool spring water on the peak

gushing through the reef dropping the temperature 5 maybe 8 degrees

do him an hour catching three long wave on the 12’6’’

mega board…

then the new dale arrivals that came yesterday

yes a K mat and a flatliner,not my request but dale’s

conclusion,I just gave him the money.

infinite thanx to dale taking part in my evolution

the learning curve is before me.

took aou the K mat first caught three

low inflate tummy massage…

went in grabbed the flat line’caught three

far more supple than my previous mat of 200 denier?

waves too small better for the stand and kneel paddling board

with the paddle , putin’ on the train…

grabbed the 12 and the wood paddle an gave to

went out when nobody

and people arrived from the moon

was populated in 5 minutes

scary with paddle clumsiness

retired and paddled it briskly

for 9 minutes to far point of the bay at lydgate

surfed as the wind was deconstructing

caught 4 a Kneeling and paddled back out standing twice

after the forth paddled down wind to Kauai sands

standing

perhaps made 3/4 mi

and resumed kneeling or sitting legs up

all respectable postures done correctly.

landed beaten to a post ambition pulp

have powered three chopped olive sandwisches

an moved to the blue campfire to tans scribe the day to a’yall…

…ambrose…

ready to ride mats tomorrow

idea#x back pack to change mat in line up

to lternative shape when surfing way off shore…/

every day can be a revolution

when you persue your evolution

stale crackers

and old mopeds ?

not evolving

try new things with dedication.

…ambrose…

lts be more like — while being Our OWN fresh new selves

phil clones

rick clones

mike clones

dizzy clones

junior clones?

the new direction you choose

may be your fullfillment

if not allowed to be your downfsll