woke to comotion
the guy rom down the street,new guy
is scouting fins for a friend
730 appt for surf lesson forth day
of bitchin conditions for eastside neighborhood
3 days ina row at black rock two seshionz in mat mind
the 37#board with the paddle in between
cross training is required for the aging process.
then the third day 12’ surfboard kneel paddle with the new paddle
exaustion alayed by following the three guy rule
,go away ater the third guy comes out,
then back out with the twelve and do two more hours
today day 4
surf lesson guy is blind in one eye and 8 opperations in the other
by the time we paddle out every body left
water clear with cool spring water on the peak
gushing through the reef dropping the temperature 5 maybe 8 degrees
do him an hour catching three long wave on the 12’6’’
mega board…
then the new dale arrivals that came yesterday
yes a K mat and a flatliner,not my request but dale’s
conclusion,I just gave him the money.
infinite thanx to dale taking part in my evolution
the learning curve is before me.
took aou the K mat first caught three
low inflate tummy massage…
went in grabbed the flat line’caught three
far more supple than my previous mat of 200 denier?
waves too small better for the stand and kneel paddling board
with the paddle , putin’ on the train…
grabbed the 12 and the wood paddle an gave to
went out when nobody
and people arrived from the moon
was populated in 5 minutes
scary with paddle clumsiness
retired and paddled it briskly
for 9 minutes to far point of the bay at lydgate
surfed as the wind was deconstructing
caught 4 a Kneeling and paddled back out standing twice
after the forth paddled down wind to Kauai sands
standing
perhaps made 3/4 mi
and resumed kneeling or sitting legs up
all respectable postures done correctly.
landed beaten to a post ambition pulp
have powered three chopped olive sandwisches
an moved to the blue campfire to tans scribe the day to a’yall…
…ambrose…
ready to ride mats tomorrow
idea#x back pack to change mat in line up
to lternative shape when surfing way off shore…/