I actually have my own planer now. I previously did most work with hand tools only, so I’m just getting used to the feel of power planing. On the first board that I tried it on, I had significant trouble skinning. I need troubleshooting advice before I go to the next board, so here’s the scoop: I was trying to skin a 6’7" Clark blank using this new planer. I got the cheapest planer available (from Harbor Freight), but I don’t think that’s the main reason I was having trouble. Anyway, it just DID NOT want to skin! The planer was fresh out of the box, the blades were plenty sharp, and the drum was turning fine, so I don’t think it was equipment error. The tool IS only as good as the hands it’s in, right? Obviously, my hands are still figuring out this power tool. I tried variations of depth, going even to the deepest setting (I think 1/10th) and it still just kept “sliding” over the surface. I also pushed at different speeds. I tried changing the angle (direction) that I moved the planer. It got to the point where it didn’t really start skinning efficiently until I was almost pushing the thing sideways! Then, of course, I was only cutting a path about an inch wide. I will say it was much easier to skin the bottom than the deck. I noticed that it did work better in the mid section of the blank, in the flat areas. Although the blank I was skinning has a very flat deck, is this because of the deck curves? What’s the problem? Any tips??? Thanks…deeb…
watch out for this deeb…keep in mind that power planer manufacturers have the finish carpenter in mind, and they make these things to plane door edges, and wooden surfaces not muck more than 2" wide. is it possible that the part of the planer’s casing that houses the belt pulley extends beyond the max depth this planer can cut? and since you just got the thing, you’re suffering from a bit of tunnel vision, only focusing on the blades and the level of the base-plates? this would cause the sensation of helplessly gliding over the skin of the blank. sure you could get into the blank with the opposite edge of the blades, but if this is the scenario, that planer may not be what you need.
I have used a cheap Black and Decker Planer in the past and got simular results. You will need to get a better planer. How to skin a board cheap: I used a router with a 1/2 inch bit. 1/8 inch depth on stringer then 1/16 inch depth on foam. http://www.viser.net/~anthwind
I actually have my own planer now. I previously did most work with hand > tools only, so I’m just getting used to the feel of power planing. On the > first board that I tried it on, I had significant trouble skinning. I need > troubleshooting advice before I go to the next board, so here’s the scoop:>>> I was trying to skin a 6’7" Clark blank using this new planer. I got > the cheapest planer available (from Harbor Freight), but I don’t think > that’s the main reason I was having trouble. Anyway, it just DID NOT want > to skin! The planer was fresh out of the box, the blades were plenty > sharp, and the drum was turning fine, so I don’t think it was equipment > error. The tool IS only as good as the hands it’s in, right? Obviously, my > hands are still figuring out this power tool.>>> I tried variations of depth, going even to the deepest setting (I think > 1/10th) and it still just kept “sliding” over the surface. I>>> also pushed at different speeds. I tried changing the angle (direction) > that I moved the planer. It got to the point where it didn’t really start > skinning efficiently until I was almost pushing the thing sideways! Then, > of course, I was only cutting a path about an inch wide. I will say it was > much easier to skin the bottom than the deck. I noticed that it did work > better in the mid section of the blank, in the flat areas. Although the > blank I was skinning has a very flat deck, is this because of the deck > curves? What’s the problem? Any tips??? Thanks…deeb… Hey Deeb, is it a knock off of the Hitachi by Chicago Electric? I bought one and put my old front shoe on it and made it easy to adjust. The bearing are not high quality as mine developed a squeal soon. But it works, I think if you had some hands on with some one who could show you some basics, you’d be able to put it to work better. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
Hey Deeb, is it a knock off of the Hitachi by Chicago Electric? I bought > one and put my old front shoe on it and made it easy to adjust. The > bearing are not high quality as mine developed a squeal soon. But it > works, I think if you had some hands on with some one who could show you > some basics, you’d be able to put it to work better. I have the same Chicgo Electric knock off and found that at frist I had trouble skinning also. I’ve discovered that by pushing the planer slower it cuts much better.
As you observed, it worked better on the bottom than the top. You need to shorten the shoe or base. If it’s too long it can’t follow the contour of the top unless you turn it at a sharp angle (also as you observed).
Deeb, Here is the skinny. When you start your passes, make sure that the front shoe is resting flushly and tightly against the surface of the blank. You should have had zero problem with the bottom. However, the deck, especially if it is domed, could be tricky. Once again, it is all in making your to flushly set the front shoe and the back plate should not be resting at all on the foam when you start your cuts)the blade and back plate are really your depth of cut. Luck. Hey, there is always the hand plane method if you decide to give up the electric plane. Deeb, I have electric planes up the ying yang…and I have actually skinned a board with a nice shark Stanley low angle block plane—worked like a charm. I had a really close tolerance blank close to the finished dims… If the tip works, throw me a cold one…this reccession is killing me!
Deeb,>>> Here is the skinny.>>> When you start your passes, make sure that the front shoe is resting > flushly and tightly against the surface of the blank. You should have had > zero problem with the bottom. However, the deck, especially if it is > domed, could be tricky. Once again, it is all in making your to flushly > set the front shoe and the back plate should not be resting at all on the > foam when you start your cuts)the blade and back plate are really your > depth of cut. Luck. Hey, there is always the hand plane method if you > decide to give up the electric plane.>>> Deeb, I have electric planes up the ying yang…and I have actually > skinned a board with a nice shark Stanley low angle block plane—worked > like a charm. I had a really close tolerance blank close to the finished > dims…>>> If the tip works, throw me a cold one…this reccession is killing me! Speaking of the recession and its financial shockwaves, a really sharp block plane will still be working fine after being just a little too late on the current energy bill payment and the juice gets temporarily shut off… always wise to have a backup plan…uhh… plane. Dale
Hey, there is always the hand plane method if you > decide to give up the electric plane. Steve and Dale, I have been using the hand plane method previously–mainly due to the “recession” in my own personal economy. I was also using a small surform, plus rough-grit sandpaper, in combination with the block plane for skinning. The hand tool method was okay for me, but slow, and crampy for the ol’ hands. I figured I’d give the power plane method a try to save time and muscle. It turned out that I could have skinned this first deck faster with my hand tools. But thanks to the tips, I think I’ll do better next time with the power plane. Also, thanks to Ramon, I’ll take a look at that housing to see if it’s in the way. Jim, yes I’m using the Chicago Electric model. Now that you guys mentioned it, I’ll pay more attention to the front plate. Is the original one too long or what? Any tips on how to modify/replace that front shoe? Where would I get a better one, which one am I looking for, how much would it cost, and is it difficult to modify? Thanks y’all!
Deeb: I bought a Chicago Electric planer several years ago and put it to work on my first boards. It is the Hitachi copy (green color). I had no problems with the belt housing being below the the level of the base. It does take some getting used to as with any planer when trying to skin a blank. In shaping you are using a tool, as Ramon points out, that was meant for flat surfaces. So I would guess the uneven surfaces of the deck are causing you grief. Some of the mods I made to mine included removing the front shoe, filling the V-groove in with bondo or epoxy and I then used a belt sander or sanding wheel to smooth and round off the leading edges and sides to reduce gouges and scratches. I did the same with the leading edge and sides of the aluminum base as well. When I reassembled the front shoe on the depth control knob assembly I tossed out the foam spacer thinking that would allow a little more cutting depth if needed. I believe some guys have successfully replaced the depth knob screw with one of coarser threads to shorten the radius for controlling cutting depth. All in all it isn’t a bad planer for $50-$60. bucks. TS>>> Hey, there is always the hand plane method if you>>> Steve and Dale, I have been using the hand plane method previously–mainly > due to the “recession” in my own personal economy. I was also > using a small surform, plus rough-grit sandpaper, in combination with the > block plane for skinning. The hand tool method was okay for me, but slow, > and crampy for the ol’ hands. I figured I’d give the power plane method a > try to save time and muscle. It turned out that I could have skinned this > first deck faster with my hand tools. But thanks to the tips, I think I’ll > do better next time with the power plane. Also, thanks to Ramon, I’ll take > a look at that housing to see if it’s in the way.>>> Jim, yes I’m using the Chicago Electric model. Now that you guys mentioned > it, I’ll pay more attention to the front plate. Is the original one too > long or what? Any tips on how to modify/replace that front shoe? Where > would I get a better one, which one am I looking for, how much would it > cost, and is it difficult to modify?>>> Thanks y’all!
Some of the mods I made to mine included removing the front shoe, > filling the V-groove in with bondo or epoxy and I then used a belt sander > or sanding wheel to smooth and round off the leading edges and sides to > reduce gouges and scratches. I did the same with the leading edge and > sides of the aluminum base as well. When I reassembled the front shoe on > the depth control knob assembly I tossed out the foam spacer thinking that > would allow a little more cutting depth if needed. I believe some guys > have successfully replaced the depth knob screw with one of coarser > threads to shorten the radius for controlling cutting depth. All in all it > isn’t a bad planer for $50-$60. bucks. Thanks for the info, Tom. Harbor Freight had it on sale for $39.95, and you can’t beat that. I also tried removing the foam spacer, but that didn’t give me more depth because the threads on the control knob just stop. So I just cranked it down as far as possible. But that knob was one of the most frustrating things: It’s hard to keep track of what depth you’re at, because the threads are so fine, you just keep cranking it around and around and it eventually gets deep enough. It would be nice if I could find a better knob and/or spring. Filling the V-groove sounds like a good idea. I noticed it had a tendency to catch on the stringer. Should I soften all the edges around the base? Makes sense to me. Thanks much!
Yeah, I did soften all edges. At the time I had an Clark modified Hitachi and was just emulating what they had done. Blind Faith. I never found that planer base too long either. The Clark 6’7"R was the first one I ever shaped with the Chicago planer. TS. > Some of the mods I made to mine included removing the front shoe,>>> Thanks for the info, Tom. Harbor Freight had it on sale for $39.95, and > you can’t beat that. I also tried removing the foam spacer, but that > didn’t give me more depth because the threads on the control knob just > stop. So I just cranked it down as far as possible. But that knob was one > of the most frustrating things: It’s hard to keep track of what depth > you’re at, because the threads are so fine, you just keep cranking it > around and around and it eventually gets deep enough. It would be nice if > I could find a better knob and/or spring. Filling the V-groove sounds like > a good idea. I noticed it had a tendency to catch on the stringer. Should > I soften all the edges around the base? Makes sense to me. Thanks much!
Yeah, I did soften all edges. At the time I had an Clark modified Hitachi > and was just emulating what they had done. Blind Faith. I never found that > planer base too long either. The Clark 6’7"R was the first one I ever > shaped with the Chicago planer.>>> TS. Has anybody tried replacing the bearings with sealed precision bearings?
Has anybody tried replacing the bearings with sealed precision bearings? I found it is best to take it to “old man I repair anything” and he’ll do it at a pretty reasonable price. I have tried, but you may find you need a tool or two. Buying the bearings is no biggy but putting them in can be a pain if the old ones don’t pull off so easily.
I’ve had no probs. with the Makita 1900B, stays sharp, 2" cut, skins easily and when used at 45 degrees to stringer is good reducing thickness. My longboard shaping times have now been reduced from 5 hours to 21/2 hours.