I was making Bonzer for a buddy. the shape and the bottom contours came out great and I was happy with it. Then I painted it and made some major boo boo’s. The paint bleed under the tape in many places and I messed up the paint in the first 8" of the board so I tried to fix that and made things worse. I am to embarrassed to take it to the glasser muchless give it to my buddy… I was thinking of trashing it. If had it glassed and tried to sell it. I probably couldn’t get close to what It cost to cover the blank and the glassing. If I toss it I would only be out $60 for the blank and my time… what would you do?
don’t toss it. If nothing else, bring it over on the 30th and we’ll give it the heaviest Halloween pigmented glass job you ever saw…
Have it glassed with carbon fiber (black). Pretend its super-new high-tech on-purpose work and nobody will ever see what’s underneath…
I say just pyschomodelicize it with lam and hot coat, pretend it was meant to be, and sell it for $400.
Of course, it’s better if YOU can glass it.
Keith, I seriously tought about that. Benny, good idea but I don’t have the money to spend on carbon fiber muchless a normal glass job… I had a good look at it again this morning. It’s not as bad I thought but is not up to my standards. I am thinking of going ahead and having it glassed. a nice thick pinline on the hot coat will cover up the paint bleeds but nothing will hide the hidious blue flame(see attachment) I did to hide the boo-boo I made previously. Keith, I am still thinking of coming down for the shaping/glassing event on Oct. 30th
Shipman, Why not use the unexpected as a jumping-off point to try something new? Some of the best new inventions started out as mistakes.
Regarding your board: I’ve seen guys use a wide paint pen to draw a wide, jagged line at the lap line. It looked artisitic and matched the existing artwork. Doug
“Looks do not make a board. The shape is what makes a board work. All shapes work.” That’s what the guy that glasses my boards tells me. He has been at it for 30+ years. I believe him for some reason. Just my humble input.
Rather than have two design elements fighting each other (the flame and the trippy drip style), maybe you could just fill in the nose like below and then put your logo or something up there. Or maybe nothing at all. People will wonder why it is solid up there, but it doesn’t look too bad to me. You can do the tail to match if you want. Just an idea…
edit: hmm…it won’t let me add the image. here, i’ll put it on my server here:
Hey Bring it to the glassing event! Orange bottom rail cut lap, and green deck inlay. we could put black pinlines…purfect.
we could cover the whole thing in an acid swirl and it would hide everything, all we need is about 6 oz of pigment. Don’t trash it Dr. Frankenstein…we can make it better. How about a totally black pigmented board? The delam special, you can only ride it at dawn & dusk, you’ll have to make special black surf wax.
-Jay
Looking at it again. A clear cutlap bottom and rail showing the yellow, with a full opaque deck inlay of a blue & white swirl would look cool and cover all the problems.
dont mess up your art with more resin work. it looks sweet. a 1/4 inch pinline will cover that no sweat. whoever is glassing should be able to fix it with no problem at all.
Austin S.
Thanks for all the advice…I went ahead and took it to my glasser…they didn’t seem to think it was to bad. Thanks Austin.
I did intend to have a pinline on the hot coat… I’ll make my buddy a new one and ride this one for a while then post it for sale on The Craiglist on something.
LeeDD, what in tarnation is “ pyschomodelicize” ?
Quote:
LeeDD, what in tarnation is “ pyschomodelicize” ?
It’s the sort of music that homer simpson would be playing on lisa’s ‘saxomophone’ after partaking of some Lucy Sky Diamond kind of substances…
"well hey diddly ho , neighbourino !! " chip
[ edit:-
I personally don’t partake. As one semi well known 16yo floridian said on a surf design site, " ‘chip’ doesn’t NEED to ! …" ]
"TARNATION… a cross between a carnation and tar "
Heck I used to build really nice boards for customers but my personal sticks were always junkers.After many years I finally figured that a few bumps,scratches,bubbles etc. didn’t affect the board at all.If there was swell I would shape one up in the morning (leaving 40 grit scratches etc) and glass it on up.Be in the water by lunchtime with styrene fumes still coming off of the board.Sometimes I would sell the board for cash on the beach right when the swell dropped and get ready for the next one.I had a competitor who had a factory down the road and I used to steal his logos and put em on these rejects …it would piss him off royally.We are still best of friends to this day. RB
Cleanlines - Are you serious? I’m in the middle of Micahel Petersen’s Biography, and he says the same thing…I don’t see how it’s possible to shape a board, laminate bothe sides, let dry, hotcoat and sand in 24 hours, let alnoe half a day! Could you explain? Right now, I’m letting my bottom lam dry overnight before I do the deck lam! Letting hotcoat dry for 48 hours before sanding, same for gloss, etc…I’d love to be able to completely shape/glass a board in one weekend, but I have no idea how. Oh, and I’m always doing tints/cutlaps, so I know that’s an extra hour probably…
That’s minor. A pinline will cover that bleeding in no time. Don’t worry about it, the board looks great. -Carl
Tenover its no biggie.Go in at 6AM. and spend 1 hour carving out a shape (in this case call it a 6’4"retro 1973 single fin beak nose diamond tail).Glass the bottom with cutlap and go eat breakfast.Come on back,cut the laps and glass the deck with a freelap.The minute it gels stiff go ahead and hotcoat it.Wait thirty minutes and hotcoat the bottom.Wait another thirty minutes and route a fin box.Glue it in.Go eat a quick lunch.Last of all you sand the bottom and rails…leave the deck alone.You can do that in 15 minutes.Bolt in a fin and go surfing.Bear in mind that the board is still pretty green and not completely cured.Thats why I said you could still smell the styrene fumes when in the water.Also take note that I was production shaping in those days and could shape a clean board in an hour and a half.Nowadays we have suncure resins so you could do the same thing only the board would be cured.We had a thread going about two years ago on this same subject (how fast) and it was pretty interesting.Maybe you could find it in the archives.Tom Sterne (Where is Tom anyway?) contributed a lot along with Herb and Kokua. RB