Just finished it, and it’s by far the best book about surfing that I’ve ever read. Lots of possible stuff to talk about from it. For one thing he went through the shortboard transition in Ventura- Matty would be interested. He also lived in Kirra, Capetown and OB SF from the mid seventies through mid 80s so folks from there would be interested too. Also writes really, really well about what the act of surfing gives you- hits that fine line between letting non surfers get it but also speaks to hardcores. Also, he is/was a charger, so there’s lots of really visceral and gut-wrenching big wave gnarl passages. Excellent, nuanced charactor descriptions too.
Pretty much does everthing amazingly well and exceeds the mark everytime. I find zero flaws in his writing. Anyone else read it yet?
I’m finishing it. The best parts, of course, relate to the gonzo travel to what were then little-known gems, and are now on everyone’s mind (eg Tavarua). The surf writing is solid and you feel like you’re there. For a lengthy taste of his surf writing, and a fun read, there’s this:
Another pretty pertinent theme of the book is the pull between a life devoted to surfing and accomplishment in the larger world. He’s obviously a driven, high-achieving guy. But as he follows his maturing intellectual curiosity into other places, he never belittles surfing… never stops finding it central to his life. To me, among all the other cool stuff he articulates about surfing, I’m just so impressed by how well he conveys what happens in the water, the sensory experience, and how important it is. It’s a sad-but-true cliche that most of us devolve into cosmic mush when we try to express why we feel as strongly as we do about surfing. Not here.
Yes. The surfing experience, I think, is different for every surfer at many levels in terms of what motivates them or what they derive from it. It’s complex and Finnegan does his best to try to define it, but it’s still a struggle. Big waves are their own thing, and I think there’s a common emotional response among all surfers, involving fear and respect, skill and testosterone levels, that the book relates well.
I thought so too (if only by proxy, since I’m not one of those guys). I saw a parallel between his big wave drive and his drive to be published, to be noticed, and I imagine, inherently, to prove his excellence as a writer. And a war/conflict correspondant at that- to put himself in “gnarly” situations. I’m sure fear and respect were a big part of those assignemts. I’d read another book about his work life.
People I know here in SF said while he was here, Finnegan was a dour, unsmiling, quiet guy. That’s interesting because you get that seriousness, but not as such in self-description, nowhere that I remember.
The same locals here debate whether or not anyone knew he was writing about them. Easy to see how that could be misunderstood or blurred. But he ends the OB part with “Doc hated it” (the published article). But not why.
“Once, in Santa Cruz, she caught a fuller glimpse of the thing. We were standing on the cliffs at a popular break called Steamer Lane. As surfers rode past the the point where we stood, we could see the waves from almost directly above, and then from the back. For a few seconds, we saw an elevated version of what the riders themselves saw, and Caroline’s idea of surfing was transformed on the spot. Before, she said, waves had always been two-dimentional objects, sheer and onrushing, standing up against the sky. Suddenly, she could see that they were in fact dynamic pyramids, with steep faces; thickness; broad, sloping backs; and a complex three dimentional construction, which changed, collapsing and rising and collapsing, very quickly. The whitewater was concussive and chaotic; the green water sleek and inviting; and the breaking lip an elusive, cascading engine and occasional hidey-hole. It was nearly enough, she said, to make watching surfing interesting.”
–Such a great discription of waves and I’ve had the same result from taking friends there to watch.
My wife, Bless her deep intellectual brain, has a PHD in American History and Culture. For her reading and literature are like Breathing. It’s a long story on how we conected. I gave her my copy of Barrbarian Days. She has read a cople of other Books with the Surf themed Books She didn’t say too much about them. neither good or bad. With Finnegan’s Barbarian Days she kept saying “Boy this guy can write.” The Only other writer that I have found that captures The essence of exploring the inner drive of taking on calculated risk with Mother Nature is Jon Krakauer.
Thanks for the heads up, I’m a bookaholic and a regular at the Friends of the Library sales where I get my books by the boxful for a buck each, I’ll keep my eye out for a copy, and I’ll pick up some Krakauer books also.
A few books I’ve read in the recent past, and enjoyed enough to recommend, Caught Inside by Daniel Duane, The Wave by Susan Casey, All The Men in The Sea by Micheal Kreiger, and Fall of the Phantom Lord by Andrew Todhunter. Its been a long time, but Perfect Storm by Sebastian Junger is a very good read also, IMO.
Its not a book, but the Surfer Mag series “Borrowed Boards” by Lewis Samuels was very good reading, I wish he’d flesh it out and publish it as a book.
Bill charged OB back in the day. And if you know Doc, he would be less then thrilled with any piece that he felt did not pay adequate tribute to the wonderfulness of being Doc…lol.
Finnegan is a highly season journalist whose work has covered many genres. If I see an article of any kind with his name on it, I’ll read it, and come away feeling I really got the gut of the matter at hand. HIs lengthy article on the Mexico drug cartels was superb, and to get the story he embedded himself into a highly dangerous world.
In many ways, his prose is similar to Jon Krakauer, as they both tell the story in explicit detail, while vividly creating the textures of the world surrounding the story.
loved Barbarian Days. Another fun read is Daniel Duane’s Caught Inside. Several memorable passages and stories. Not as good as Barbarian Days, but still good.
Dan was staying at the same resort as us on Vitu, back when boats ran to Cloudbreak from Momi Bay, and got scraped up badly on the Cloudbreak reef his first few days there. Initially super bummed thinking what was supposed to be an extended trip was already over, turned him on to the lime reef wound scrub, and he was back in action by end of week.
Dan has gone on to an interesting literary career, had penned multiple books, many articles. Cool dude with an open mind…
I’ve read Caught Inside twice over the years since it was published, really enjoyable read with a strong sense of place. Nice to learn that the author is a good person to hang and surf with as well.