that’s a good tip with the brushes . . . Roy I saw a post in the other Richie B wooden thread (now sf-l0cked). Is it possible to do a new post about Pat Curren’s method (which is similar to yours?). I would have asked but that thread is locked.
What was funny was Paul, a moderator didn’t lock the thread, but Hicksey, also a mod did lock it. Even topping that was two wood board guys were getting into a pissing match . . . But it wasn’t funny that they both began to sling mud at each other.
Anycase, based off the Cerritos thing . . . using RR on would (wood) produces better results using the techniques outlined in West’s website . . .
I’ve heard about the PU/Epoxy schedule, but never tried it - primarily b/c I’ve also heard horror stories about mating the two. I was also under the impression, maybe based on the vast epoxy propaganda machine (just kidding), that epoxy bonded better to wood than PU.
Roy, Sorry to be a pain in the arse here. But I just don’t get it yet. What I really wanted to know was whether it is vertically tapered or horizontally. I assume you’re not just talking about the “profile” taper but instead, as if the middle panel was “compressed” vertically (tapering the nose and tail from side (profile) view, or tapering the rails from head-on nose/tail view).
If I’m reading this right Roy means “Rail on side view” and that pretty much explains the Flex bit - in a nutshell! Basicly if one were to view Roys board “Rail on side View” It has the same mechanics as a bow (archery-Robin Hood stuff) Thats the main ingredient of how to make the bow limb bend… ofcourse the “Nose on view” aka cross section also affects it but the side view is easier to shape- from a bowyers perspective. … But for clarity I suppose its best to let Roy answer…
When making fiberglass (or carbon) laminated bows… The outer surfaces (belly and back are usally the same thickness fiberglass lams. The core layer which is in between, usually consisting of 1-3 layers of wood, is tapered towards the tip of the bow limb (nock) - This is a very rough explanation. as in surfboards bow limbs are preeetty complicated when one gets to the nitty gritty. This is what me has observed thusfar…
A very belated “welcome back”. Thanks for all the great info & drawings. I do have a question re: the 2nd layer, left side of drawing. Do you laminate/bend the wood to form the arc/template curve? What makes the left side method easier than the right side approach? I hope that wan’t too dumb of a question… (hope it wasn’t already answered in the archives either :> )
I’m exited to try building a wooden board (having shaped an EPS one earlier this year) and it seems that your method may be the easiest to try. I’ve got some “craft” balsa and will try a scale model first.
I am just trying to show a middle panel which is tapered fore and aft. The drawing does look like a surfboard cross section rather than a fore and aft section because it doesn’t show any planshape curve, but it’s really just meant to show that there is a tapered middle layer with frames running across the board. Apologies for my poor drawing.
To clarify, what i really meant was a thin “kerfed” blade (or even more simply, the thinnest-kerfed blade that will work for the job). Keep in mind, I’m woking with soft, straight grained, cedar and only re-sawing to 2" (two passes) max. My blade need not be super beefy. "
If I remember correctly (from the woodenboat.com forum), you can use a 7" blade (thinner kerfs than 10" blades) on a 10" table saw to minimize waste.
Hello Jay, none of the pieces of timber in panel two are bent,they are (on the left side) just blocks and struts running across the board, (and on the right side) planks running fore and aft with struts attached and running across the board. Actually the right side of the drawing with planks running fore and aft is really just as easy to do. . . . just imagine a tapered deck panel with the middle cut out and replaced with cross members.
. . . . unlike the ‘kookbox’ HWS method and its variants, which don’t allow much flex at all.
The conventional kookboxes might not flex much, so maybe we need to be more unconventional. Here’s a back burner project of mine…a hollow wood biplane paipo. Sort of a hybrid combination of hillbillism and contrarianism. I was challenging several wood board conventions here. Making a board that didn’t have convex rails, wan’t very perty, used bookcase construction rather than wing (kookbox) construction, didn’t use fiberglass or resin, required very few tools and had a reverse foil profile. Yes the tail is thicker than the nose. That’s so the water flow between the biplane wings isn’t constricted. I ran into a snag when I glued on the other skin. I pulled it off before the glue set. So I need to clean it up and reglue it. Make the wing struts, etc. Got busy with other things and test riding other boards. But even unfinished I figured it was worth mentioning here as an example of “other” methods.
Amazing boards!! I talked to your partner a couple times over e-mail with questions I had to get me started on a longboard. Thanks to both of you for taking the time to answer these questions. I’m well into the process of building my first hollow. I have the inner fram completed and drying as of last night. Its so amazing to watch it take shape as each of the ribs get notched and glued. I can see the board coming alive!!! I examined your pictures on the website and it looks like you guys are also experementing with some different build methods. I notched and glued my ribs to the stringer. I also left the stringer extened over the top (both for finished looks and strength). I’m going to glue up my first couple of planks tonight…I see that on some boards you glued and screwed…and on others it looks as if you just used glue?? Pros/cons to screwing as well? Is it really needed? (FYI I used cedar as well, ripped down to about 1/4 inch).
Thanks again and keep up the beautiful work, its inspiring.
Pierre, I got into the idea of hollow boards after reading a book on cedar strip canoes, then found this site and the wealth of info from everyone else. How closely are you following the traditional cedar strip canoe techniques? It seems that it would be difficult to glass the inner surface of the board using this method. If you don’t mind, a couple of other questions come to mind. Are you using bead and cove routing then to get the sharp curves on the rails? And are you building the bottom and top decks separately or just starting at one point and working your way around?
How closely are you following the traditional cedar strip canoe techniques? It seems that it would be difficult to glass the inner surface of the board using this method.
I didn’t glass the inside of the board, only the outside
Quote:
Are you using bead and cove routing then to get the sharp curves on the rails? And are you building the bottom and top decks separately or just starting at one point and working your way around?
Thanks!
Pat
I didn’t use the bead and cove approach because the only tools I had were a hand saw and a hand plane. I layed down the strips in the following manner :
First strip is on the rail apex. Then I build up the rails, then the deck. It’s probably easier to explain with a few pictures :
Here’s the structure :
The structure is held in place on a big wood beam.
Since I’m not using a building jug, I wanted to keep
the structure rigid enough. Therefore I didn’t hollow
the ribs except for some small holes to let the air flow.
I was thinking along these same lines. The only thing that has been troubling is that I can’t figure out how to clean out the excess glue from between each strip on the inside as the structure closes up. Am I correct in assuming that you are leaving the internal frame in place, in effect making it your building jig?
–>PIerreB. Very interesting approach easy to recoqnize the ‘stripper’ canoe/kayak method… and in this case surfboard method…
I’m assuming yours is going to be glassed on the outside then ? I’m interrested in this method as it opens the possibility for deck camber… You’re using 1 -komp polyurethene glue ? the type that hardens/dries from h20 ?
