where is your favorite spot to surf without the schooling crowds ? what board do you go there with ?
my old age insurance policy down he street from my house considered unrideable for years by most contemporaries… cross swells close outs rips currents at 3-5knots sightings of mystery splashes…I tell everybody they think Im off my … but as Fred Windisch used to say “at least there’s no one out” stop by I’ll take you out I have an xtra board…or what ever is appropriate for the conditions, those lacking the oblique genome rarely go out twice I’m amassing a list of comrads to surf in old age agreeably…WAIPOULI SURF CLUB… no dues no meetings just fun friends and aloha …say? you want a revolution? sit still tomorrow at this time one more will be completed.he he he aint this fun? your friend ambrose anytime
count me in… are we the late crew or what!?
Howzit Brose, Only you could find a secret spot on the east side. But then again before I lived there I swore all the east side kids didn’t surf til they got their license and could drive to the north or south sides. But yes there are some diamonds in the rough on your side ( loved the sands especially when the gods shine on it) and the Big M. spot is one of our best kept secrets, gotta admit it can make Pakalas look like a short wave. Hope those fins sizes you wanted. Aloha from Haena,Kokua
Theres this island out from the city where i live, its between two surfing coasts and the coastline here dont get any swell cause the island blocks it. takes 2 hours to get there by ferry, the island is known for sharks. so much so that you can be gauranteed of seeing one of more every time, but ive never seen any at the point break where i surf. At christmas which is the busiest time, theres only about 15 guys out max, any other time i surf by myself of with anyone who happens to be there.
thank you Ambrose, don’t forget brother, “in the world of mules there are no rules”.
I composed a bitchin response but it got lost when I dozed off at the keyboard… I looked up Ogden Nash too an’ tried to find the mule line poem … I like the way Dora said the rule stuff … I only found the Old Man one “But the old men know when an old man dies” ogden nash 1902 -1971 I do feel an americanist affinity for this guy …thanks for the turn on . ambrose son of Ambrose alive in waipouli
poked fun at hangin ten here this morning in central California , small south, fog, old fishing boat goes by, all this on ugly longboard #1, my first one I made years ago. those words you lost are just around the corner ,or the new words will be better.
Ambrose alive in waipouli What’s the latest on the big development in your area? Have they moved the burial grounds yet? I understand there will be a lot more traffic on the east side. Those kinds of developments only serve the developer. One mitigated trade off will be public beach access. What’s your take on all of this?
no take … only silent prayers . access? paved paradise parking lot? burials are consistantly present … moving is not necessarily acceptable . a touchy topic at best.The higher power is the controling factor.The noise from the late night LIZARD LOUNGE has tapered off somewhat … I think hollowing out the V planes forward of the fin …up to 3/8" can reduce the loss of speed in a california rockered blank i.e. design forum ambrose in practice