Conditions were unreal here in Ventura today! I surfed at The Point from 12:00PM - 1:30PM today and had the longest ride I’ve ever pulled off out here. There was very little wind and long, clean, rising, overhead sets with a dropping tide and sunshine. The swell direction had the waves pushing towards the pier instead straight towards shore which made for some insanely long rides. For those of you that are familiar with the spot; I took off just inside of the kiosk for the pay lot, and rode the same wave all the way past the first set of stairs. Can you say “burning legs”? Oh yeah, and I’m goofy foot.
Sorry to brag, but is was such a great, long ride, with so many fun sections that I had to share. Used my 7’4" pintail tri-fin. Heee heeeeeeeeeee…Weeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!
I went out yesterday no wind, and a few sets . . . the place where i went to it was mixed up (currents were messing it up) but on the few sets, nice clean rides, few people out (and that could get out). It was weird the break would be a stormy surf, then chill out, and a few sets would steam roll through with long 200 yard rights or lefts . . . then it would get gnar gnar for a long time and chill . . .
I didn’t go out today . . . the wind is coming 15 mph out of the NW, and nerfing most of the breaks down here.
Tomorrow, however, the wind will be NE. or N, which I know where a great break that will be offshore . . .
Sorry to brag, but is was such a great, long ride, with so many fun sections that I had to share. Used my 7’4" pintail tri-fin. Heee heeeeeeeeeee…Weeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!
Sr Pato
…no hull? no v-bottom stubb??? Y’re picture is coming down off the wall…
I actually had my hull with me today, but considering the size and the late take offs I do, the hull just didn’t seem like the right choice. It would’ve worked fine if I sat outside farther but I was in a different state of mind today. A little more aggressive. Grrrrrrrrrrr…
Anyone know why bigger swells seem to attract so many beginners? I couldn’t believe the number of people that were getting washed down towards the pier.
Just before paddling out:
Kid: “Sure looks BIG out there!”
Me: “Yeah, looks fun.”
Kid: “Do you think I have enough wax?”
Me: “Looks good to me.”
Kid: “Where you going?”
Me: “Up the point. Gonna paddle out on the inside of Pipe.”
This California surfer woke up to the following report this morning:
“On this not so fine morning, we currently have stormy conditions, a strong onshore wind, dark ominous clouds and the surf looks about as inviting as the principles office in grammar school. Waves look to be in the 1.5x to 3x overhead range, very mixed up, breaking every which direction with no rideable qualities to speak of that I can make out.”
The only burning I felt in my legs today was running through the parking lot into work during a downpour…
Glad you scored down there, though–sounds like a good way to spend your lunch hour!
well, it looked good this am, but too much tide.at lunch i checked again. like pato said, 6’ sunny and glassy, with tide going out-oh joy.by 3pm, it was 3-4’ and junk-yuck…lucky pato!
holy fucking shit yea!!! I CANT BELIEVE I LIVE HERE. surfing 6-8 foot point waves feels like im flyinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnng.
marc, thats one hell of a ride your talkin. ive made it into the cove from the kiosk, but never past the set of stairs. i mean sheet! i surfed today and caught a few right out at pipes in almost to the showers…almost. but your ride was like half a mile long!
I know…I still can’t believe it! Been surfing here for twenty years and this was the first time that I’ve actually connected that far. Usually there’s too many holes (flat spots) and peaks between the kiosk and first lot but…SHIT…it was soooooo much fun. Guess it was my lucky day! I’ll gladly give that one to Balsa’s dad!
