Paging MikeDaniel - how do the rails look?

I figured it would have been easier to adjust the roll while the bands were being cut. What would be the difference in rolling the deck while banding versus rolling before banding?

Not too mention further work is on hold while I devise a plan for my planer shoe. I snagged another stock planer for $60 and am waiting for that to arrive as back up.

…first you owe (at least) MD a lunch, a dinner, a pack of beers, sodas, etc

wonder if you really have the sense of these “private” classes with a great shaper are “one in a million”


talking about your fish,

man, a fish will not be more than 5 11

there s no necessity to be

I think you and most surfers around the world confuse a fish with some kind of wide shorty fat board that will be good for begginers, rookies or fatties

so a fish is not for begginers

the gal will take waves (because too much foam) then will be no properly ride it; I mean, not enough strength in her legs to move the beast to the curl or cutbacks, etc

kind of a cork with a person on

in surfing we all know that the surfer put strenght in his legs to move the board to places that he wants to go

is not only stand up on something that float a see what happens

-with that dim at WP12F, you have too much area and curvy nose outline and too much of a straight line to the tail or too much area behind the center to tail to compensate

so the gal should be in a more forward standing position to try something in that planshape

–so those blanks are rejected?

man, I need rejected like that!

P.S.: Im not trying to be rude or something

only trying to share a bit of experience in some designs

I haven’t taken you as rude, no worries. I truly appreciate the info you and MD have passed on. I would be a lot further behind right now. I hope I can truly repay MD’s generousity, and yours as well somehow. Unfortunately, I don’t have a lot of friends that surf or a lot of money to try boards of different styles, so your guys’ insight is priceless. Nor am I that good of a surfer on top of everything :slight_smile:

As for my Wife’s board, I realized in the beginnings of the first thread that this board was not going to be functional fit for her. She has always had a love for the classic era. She has supported me in getting my shaping dream going while we are trying to just stay afloat; so I am trying to build the board she wants regardless of whether it fits the shoe. I do, however, try to squeeze as many of your recommendations in as I can. I am always listening although my posts may not reflect that.

…your wife seems a nice one

if she likes classic designs

might be like a mini egg; that is more userfriendly because of the shape (planshape, rocker) and fin set ups (in single, 2+1; 3 fins, quad or bonzer type)

good luck

Well played on both sides, reverb and guy.

Re the deck roll/rail bands: Unless you have a blank that has deck rocker and roll just right for the board you’re doing, there’s a good deal of foam that needs to come off the deckside. Most of the post-Clark blanks are designed for versatility and/or CNC machine use, so handshaping them requires a little brutality. I like to set my deck stringerline, roll, and rail foil before I start my bands because, for me, it’s more accurate. And you can ‘‘see’’ those things more clearly before you start the bands.

There was more roll in blank initially but in my attempts to practice I kind of flattened it out. I suppose I see where you are coming from in your order.

I was playing with the numbers after your post reverb, and MD had said WP just ahead of center previously. Now even though we broke tradition with length, is 6"s ahead of center still too forward? I think I can keep the basic shape of the “retro”(hate that phrase) design. She loves the “look” of the fish. Next on the list is 9’6" 50/50 single fin so we’ll keep the classics rolling :slight_smile:

BTW, not all those blanks were rejects!

6’’ up is much better, headed in the right direction. Try to get just a little curve in the aft section, it’ll help her to initiate turns in our normal Brevard County surf. Post up some pics when you get close and we’ll all yell and scream at you.

The blank I gave you was not really a ‘‘reject’’, it was an early prototype from one of the new PU companies. It just wasn’t stable enough to glass, and I’d had it laying around at work for a couple of years. You seemed like you could put it to good use.

I was tracing out the template last night and realized I need to pull the nose and tail in some more too. Maybe 16" in the nose or a little less and even a little less than that in the tail like 15" or so.

The reject blanks comment was for reverb. He thought all the blanks in in the pics were rejects I think.


I think if your wife likes the look of a fish, and you have some problems tweaking the outline here and there in 6 4´´

and that board will be too big,

why not go down in length? you ll find that the outline will be appearing in a more relaxed way into your lines and the look will be more pleasant for the wife s eyes

because that look is the look of the fish up to 5 11 s classic or moderns

-also, why not invite your lady to read this thread and see what all you do to try to obtain a nice board for her

–ok, so not all are rejected ones I supposed that

I will agree as it was a total misconception. Everything I have heard about fishes and their oversized hybrid cousins is that they are a great begginner shortboard, or transition board.

Back to your outline, if you go 15’’ on the tail you’ll have to bring the tip-to-tip in to 9’’ or so, and then it won’t be a ‘‘fish’’. IMO you should keep the nose and tail very close to equal at around 16’’ on a 6’4’’ x 22’'.

Get close on your own template and maybe next week stop by my room and we can compare it to mine.

Mike, you are the shiznit. This board rocks. Ok sorry for the interruption, back to the regularly scheduled thread.

SOunds like a plan.

The blank I have is only 23" wide. I try to leave around .25" from my template. Since I use a jigsaw, I try to have a shoulder on the outside so it cuts straight, which is why I came up with 21.5 inches. If I am careful I can try to squeeze out 22". I am also going to try to move the wp back o 3-4" ahead and see how that works. I have been trying to use aku shaper to get an idea what the shape will look like and then get the batten out and line it to my marks.

BTW, I love the cross hatching on your boards.