How do these rail bands look? I think the secondary band is a little too steep, like 45 degrees or so. I didn’t use the planer though I thought about it. I used 40 grit block. The last one is a pic of my bay.
IMG]http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm94/black90vette/bay1.jpg[/IMG]
Fixed it for you. You have to press the little tree button at the top of the post editor and enter your URL for the photo that way. It’d be nice if we could still just copy/paste the if we wanted to.
It’s hard to see the nuances of light and shadow that allow ‘‘reading’’ of the bands. But the work looks clean; outstanding for a first board!
Maybe another pic, more of a ‘‘profile’’ shot?
Looks like your off to a good start… What kind of rail are you shooting for?
I am having trouble getting my camera to focus right for the profile shot. Hopefully I can get a good pic soon.
BTW, thanks for making my pics work the right way. I was going to go back and edit the tags out but you did one better thanks again.
As far as what type of rail, I was trying for a harder rail but this was more for just feeling it with a sanding block. I have not gotten to the top rail yet because I am still trying to modify my depth adjustment on my stock hitachi. I have everything refigured out except a stop for zero cut.
OK, I’m seeing things a little more clearly now that I know those are the bottom bands. Makes sense because Jim and I both said to do the bottom first. The general rule is: harder rail = smaller bottom bands. You can always take off more later. Secondary band should not be wider than what’s left of first band after the second is cut.
Use the ‘‘practice blank’’, cut a new rail on that to trial what you’re after.
…the planshape looks like a normal shortboard (not a fish for ex.) so in my opinion you have too much nose thickness to start with the rails…
This was a practice blank I got and had to cut it down to a 5’9" rounded pin. Ya I got a lot to take out of the nose, just wanted to have my bottom done before I turned it over. I am not having luck taking foam out of hte nose with the planer so it will be by hand. The other problem I had was with smoothing all the bumps out the template, MD showed me a way with the planer but that did not work out so well for me. SO I did that all by hand as best as I could.
You have not one, but 2 practice blanks. Which is a great way to get some learning (and a few mistakes) out of the way before you go on the fish. My advice would be to practice until there’s nothing left of the reject I gave you, that one’s not stable enough to glass. Cut a new outline on it (practice), re-foil the nose and tail (practice), turn new rails (practice), etc.
Getting foam out of the deckside nose is tough. Rolling the bottom up to meet the nose is easier, but you need to learn to do both. For now, I guess your surform will take out deckside best, or a flexi #36 block. Watch out for the transition area between this work and the rest of the deck, easy to get a bump or dip there.
What I can see of your outline trueing looks pretty good. You were brave to try the planer there, sorry it didn’t quite work for you. It is the best tool for that once you’ve got a little better feel for it. If you’re blocksanding to true, try to knock down the high spots first, then work towards smooth end-to-end strokes to finish. Remember how to ‘‘compress’’ the curve to see the bumps.
You are doing very well, your patience and willingness to practice is impressive!
What’s really impressive is hiding the true cost from my wife! Shaping so far has been just a great relief from the world and you can’t put a price tag on that. Must be nice to do it for a living.
The little tid bit on knocking down the high spots first was great, did not think of that. I put about .25" of vee in the tail and I think that came out ok. I am still curious how that center box goes in there level with the bottom. I am hoping to glass the 5’9" as practice but using epoxy is expensive practice.
I do enjoy going to work. The zen of shaping is theraputic.
What fin system are you concerned about leveling/aligning? Easiest way to assure it’s located properly is to put a fin in the box while installing, and look.
Don’t worry about doing a full practice lam, there’s enough info on here to get you through it easily on the first try…
Most likely Futures as I have the install kit. The more I read about probox the more I like them. I just don’t see how the center fin box will sit flush with the bottom with some vee. I guess it will come together when I get there.
You can shim the jig to level, and then if you don’t trust your route, glue the box in with a fin partially inserted (for ease of removal) or a dummy to align. No big deal.
I will try some fin box routing eventually. I thinned the nose out and refoiled the board today. Not thrilled with how it came it out. I had to take it down 1/16 past my target thickness to make it look as clean as I wanted. I think the nose may be a little thin also. Good thing for practice blanks. I’ll get some pics up soon.
You can route fin box holes all over the practice blanks when you’re done shaping on them. Put a big huge double concave in one, that’ll give you a few feet of raised stringer/vee in center to practice ‘‘leveling’’ that route. Also good concave practice, too.
Where’s the pics?
I finally got to getting the pics up. I went out and looked at some boards this weekend and realized that the nose isn’t too bad. The overall board came out too thin but oh well. I will probably save the concave practice until I go for my 9’6", will definately need it then.
I finally got to getting the pics up. I went out and looked at some boards this weekend and realized that the nose isn’t too bad. The overall board came out too thin but oh well. I will probably save the concave practice until I go for my 9’6", will definately need it then.
Nose is definitely not too thin. Work on rolling up the last 2’‘-3’’ of the bottom side to meet the deck, flipping the tip a little. Getting curve deckside is a little harder w/o the sander tricks I showed you; but you’re not quite ready for that. When you do the fish you won’t have to worry with the shortboard nose tweaks.
Keep on havin fun!
Starting the template for the “fish” tonite. Looks like it will be 6’4" x 17" x 21.75" x 16.5" x 2.625" with the wide point about 10 to 12" ahead of center. She really wants the retro deal. After I get the longboard done I am going to do more of a modern fish with some of your revisions for myself.
If you put the wp that far up on an oversized fish she won’t be able to turn it, There weren’t any 6’4’’ fish back in the day, they were all really short. But if that’s what she wants… I’ve been married 20 years, I know better than to argue with a woman.
It looks like you could put some deck roll in that practice board before you start the deckside bands. Much better to put that in first (if it’s not in the blank. doesn’t appear to be…) Bands are smaller and more accurate that way. I think there’s a misconception out there that deck roll is part of rail bands; it doesn’t really work that way.
![http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm94/black90vette/bay1.jpg[/IMG]](http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm94/black90vette/bay1.jpg%5B/IMG%5D){kind=link}