Here’s the scenario:
I just finished shaping my wife’s new mini-longboard, 7’6" X 18" X 21.5" X 15" X 23/4" thick, and it came out beautifully. She is going to do the paint job on it and wants to wrap vines/flowers over the rail from the deck to the bottom. She’ll be using Delta acrylic paint blended with Future acrylic and hand painting it with brushes.
Here’s the question: Can I safely tape/cut the laps or should I just free lap em’? My concern is the tape pulling up the paint.
Sr Pato
that’s a definite possibility, I did cut laps on a painted board & the tape pulled up some of the paint, because I forgot to seal it w/ clear. Either do free laps or seal it, probably safest to do the former if she’s doing the art herself w/ brushes…
I just finished a similar board, (it has tea leaves draping over the rails)
Here’s what I did, and it worked pretty well:
After painting, I lightly, very lightly, sprayed the design with clear Krylon acrylic. I did this to prevent any bleeding of paint when I did the lam. When it was dry (next day) I laminated the bottom using a free lap. (no bleeding)
After that I laminated the top using a cut lap. No problem with that since the artwork was protected.
I don’t see why you couldn’t just free lap the whole thing as long as you cut the cloth neatly. Doug
Thanks for the responses. I think I’ll stick with the free lap, especially since I just picked up a brand new pair of razor sharp 10" shears. Should be able to keep it clean and straight with these. I’ll post a pic when it’s finished.
Sr Pato
Test the Delta paints by putting some on a scrap piece of foam, let dry, and then coating with resin. I’ve had some of the colors (yellow) dissolve in the resin and turn it green. Happens worse if you mix yellow with anything else. Had this problem with both Delta and Liquidtex paints using Sylmar resins.
Senior Pato,
The next time you might try this? Glass, hot Coat, and sand the board as usual. If your doing a cut lap with color fine, or if your doing a color spray on the blank thats fine too. Now, if you want to do some artwork like vines, flowers and what not, just paint them on the sanded hot coat with a brush. The good thing about doing it this way is that you can pencil the design in first then you can go back over it with a heavy paint or a light watercolor looking design. If you screw up you can just sand it off and start over.
Once you get the design your looking for put the gloss coat on, or cover it in UPOL or Krylon Clear coat. Delta paint or Apple Barrel cheapo paint work fine, just make sure it’s flat paint & water based.
-Jay
Jay,
Next time I will do it that way, I can see how it will save me from additional trouble. The areas she painted over the stringer were smoother than on the foam. No big deal but it’s nice to have some consistency. Thanks for your help.
Sr Pato
paint over the stringer is a bad idea…
GREAT!..bring on the bad news
this is why we always say, read the archives! see, e.g.
http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=161023;search_string=paint%20stringer;#161023
Well, if I remember correctly, (which isn’t likely) there are only a couple of very small areas that are painted on the stringer and I have already tested the color fastness on 8" sanded strip of foam with UV resin. So far, so good. But a good lesson learned for the future.
Thanks,
Sr Pato
Sr Pato:
All good info above, here’s one more tidbit that you can find in the archives. Thanks to Cleanlines we also have lap basting to help out with your freelaps over sprayed foam. I just finished a board with the potential for similar damage to my foam tint. You are going to freelap the bottom, taking extra care to pretrim your laps a clean as possible and flatten that lap out nice and tight. After the lam dries or whenever you can flip safely, baste you freelap with some lam resin. This gives you a buffer area to clean up the freelap and it will help fill in your lap area.
Tom S.