We have done a few expeirimenal boards with air brush paint right on the EPS foam and so far so good. But my standard stock product is clear on sealed foam. Has anyone painted right on the foam and seen how the boards hold up with a year or more of use?
Thanks
Scott
Or put color in their spackle?
After painting a bunch of EPS blanks in the last 2 month, I’m thinking of just doing it all on top of the sanded hotcoat.
The EPS blanks have all come from a cnc shop and are finished by the in house shaper. I’ve been spackling and fine sanding the spackle. Even with with the sanded spackle, it’s a challenge to do finesse AB work. The stuff is still pretty rough compared to what I’m accustomed with PU. The spackle does fill alot of the roughness from shaping but the surface is nowhere near as uniform as a well sanded PU blank. I end up spending alot more time on these than I would on PU and the results are’nt as clean. Maybe after some more experience with this stuff it will begin to get better.
Good idea Keith, I’ll try it tomorrow on some pieces. Will try regular pigment, tint and even mix in a little acrylic paint. We’ll see if it works.
Any thoughts onl laying a layer of glass seal, sand, paint, then cover it with another layer of glass and final sand?
That should work. I’ve done that on polyester glass job when the laminator screwed up and glassed the wrong decal on the board. So I painted a nose panel to cover it and the right decal was glassed on top of that under a layer of 4oz.
I must add that you are essentially glassing, hot coating and sanding the board twice. You can do all you painting on top of the sanded hotcoat and seal it with the finish coat. The only caviats you’ll encounter with this are having to mask the logos (or design your paint graphics around them) and tooling down the finish coats bead on the rails without burning into the paint under it. Hint: use a flat file, not a razor blade or your grinder.
and tooling down the finish coats bead on the rails without burning into the paint under it.
Been there with poly - avoided for that reason. Good input “Atomized” – with a name like that, you must be the man when it comes to paint! Spray on.
What kind of paint are you using? and where are you getting it from?
Say bro –
I have been useing Createx for years. I am a big fan of adding a catalizing and a bonding agent to my air brush paint. These additives are pretty cheap and truly help minimize bleading and lift. That said, epoxy seems to be a lot more friendly to paints than poly.
I get my paint from Dixie art supplies.
Good prices and knowlageble staff – place for razor blades and art tools too.
Enjoy