nice pictures of the 7-2 single fin egg.i am really into these types of boards.would it be possible for you to post some more pics of them and give out some dimensions info.
nice pictures of the 7-2 single fin egg.i am really into these types of > boards.would it be possible for you to post some more pics of them and > give out some dimensions info. I don’t have any more photos on hand. If I get some I’ll post them. Typical outline dimensions, depending on how much drive versus manueverability you want, range from 16" x 21.5"(+5) x 15" (manueverable) to 18.75" x 22.5" (+10) x 15" (drive). Bascially, the more drive, the more nose area and further up the wide point. The further up the wide point, the wider it needs to be in the center to keep the tail wide enough as the outline curve tapers in. Whatever you do, 15" is a safe tail width. Build around that number to begin with for most small wave conditions. That’s a good constant for a hull with no tail V. If you want to use V, go up to 15.5" to 16". Keep the V ahead of the fin. V behind the fin is a total loser. It adds too much rocker to the rail line in the back. No drive. V in front of the fin flattens the rail rocker line, making the board really fly out of turns. 6’8" to 7’8" is a comfortable length range, but not limited to that. 3" is a safe thickness, but you have to use a triplane deck to keep the rails thin enough. Resist thte temptation to go thinner with a flat deck. The bouyancy of the center area is what get these boards rolling in smaller conditions. If you want thinness, put it in the rails and tail. And keep the rails at least 60/40 or higher until the last 24" to 18". Rocker low…4-5" in the nose. 1-2" in the tail. Tail shape can range from anything from hard square to squash to full roundtail to round pin. Swallows and pins don’t seem to work on hulls for surf under 8’. Use a fin box. Fin shape and placement are pretty important, and every board is different…so give yourself a chance to fool around and see what works for you in your surf. Most hulls like a 9" Greenough/Liddle/Frye fin between 8" and 14" up. Stick with the rear measurement in the beginning. The hulls with fins all the way up are used on really proven shapes ridden in almost perfect point surf. Put the box 7" up, that will give you plenty of lattitude. Single 6 top and bottom, with either a 4 or 6 deck patch in the middle 4’ of the board. Weight isn’t critical at with flat rocker and a hull bottom. This could go on forever, but I’ll stop. Just make something and ride the s*it out of it, then build another one!
Good stuff i’l store this away for future projects… I see that it has very little rocker in the tail?? Is it flat rockerd under your feet with real tail rocker the last 16" or so?? The rail rockerline is is something we talked about before… i work that into my shapes both long and short. Not only do i stay with a flater rocker but i keep a higher and strighter rail line. With boards we all want Drive with Control. Yet i still see boards that the railrocker line follows the bottom rocker?? I guess its easy to follow the bottom and drag some screen… You know you hear the saying, Turn the rails?? that’s easy any monkey can pull Dragon skin!!! How about shaping the rails… it makes a difference to think how the water comes off the rail not only the bottom?.. My two cents… Another Nice one Paul… PS thanks for the pics>>> I don’t have any more photos on hand. If I get some I’ll post them.>>> Typical outline dimensions, depending on how much drive versus > manueverability you want, range from 16" x 21.5"(+5) x 15" > (manueverable) to 18.75" x 22.5" (+10) x 15" (drive). > Bascially, the more drive, the more nose area and further up the wide > point. The further up the wide point, the wider it needs to be in the > center to keep the tail wide enough as the outline curve tapers in. > Whatever you do, 15" is a safe tail width. Build around that number > to begin with for most small wave conditions. That’s a good constant for a > hull with no tail V.>>> If you want to use V, go up to 15.5" to 16". Keep the V ahead of > the fin. V behind the fin is a total loser. It adds too much rocker to the > rail line in the back. No drive. V in front of the fin flattens the rail > rocker line, making the board really fly out of turns.>>> 6’8" to 7’8" is a comfortable length range, but not limited to > that. 3" is a safe thickness, but you have to use a triplane deck to > keep the rails thin enough. Resist thte temptation to go thinner with a > flat deck. The bouyancy of the center area is what get these boards > rolling in smaller conditions. If you want thinness, put it in the rails > and tail. And keep the rails at least 60/40 or higher until the last > 24" to 18". Rocker low…4-5" in the nose. 1-2" in the > tail.>>> Tail shape can range from anything from hard square to squash to full > roundtail to round pin. Swallows and pins don’t seem to work on hulls for > surf under 8’.>>> Use a fin box. Fin shape and placement are pretty important, and every > board is different…so give yourself a chance to fool around and see what > works for you in your surf. Most hulls like a 9" > Greenough/Liddle/Frye fin between 8" and 14" up. Stick with the > rear measurement in the beginning. The hulls with fins all the way up are > used on really proven shapes ridden in almost perfect point surf. Put the > box 7" up, that will give you plenty of lattitude.>>> Single 6 top and bottom, with either a 4 or 6 deck patch in the middle 4’ > of the board. Weight isn’t critical at with flat rocker and a hull bottom.>>> This could go on forever, but I’ll stop. Just make something and ride the > s*it out of it, then build another one! http://surfnwsc.com
I see that it has very little rocker in the tail?? Is it flat rockerd > under your feet with real tail rocker the last 16" or so??>>> Sort of. The center rocker line is a bit straighter, with a soft break about 18" up. It’s subtle. Not dead straight in the center. Not an even curve either. I really don’t know how critical it is. That’s what was in the old 8’1" Brewer blank, and it worked, so we stuck with it.
Hi Paul, Just wanted to say I really appreciated your comment on using a fin box. The ability to adjust to one’s liking is something I don’t see a lot of surfers take advantage of. I would never trust that the first position in a fixed placement is the one I’d want forever on a new board. I ride low rocker tradional longboards with single fins and I could easily of not had a box, but have found the ability to tinker to be quite helpful. Good comment. Tom Graner>>> I don’t have any more photos on hand. If I get some I’ll post them.>>> Typical outline dimensions, depending on how much drive versus > manueverability you want, range from 16" x 21.5"(+5) x 15" > (manueverable) to 18.75" x 22.5" (+10) x 15" (drive). > Bascially, the more drive, the more nose area and further up the wide > point. The further up the wide point, the wider it needs to be in the > center to keep the tail wide enough as the outline curve tapers in. > Whatever you do, 15" is a safe tail width. Build around that number > to begin with for most small wave conditions. That’s a good constant for a > hull with no tail V.>>> If you want to use V, go up to 15.5" to 16". Keep the V ahead of > the fin. V behind the fin is a total loser. It adds too much rocker to the > rail line in the back. No drive. V in front of the fin flattens the rail > rocker line, making the board really fly out of turns.>>> 6’8" to 7’8" is a comfortable length range, but not limited to > that. 3" is a safe thickness, but you have to use a triplane deck to > keep the rails thin enough. Resist thte temptation to go thinner with a > flat deck. The bouyancy of the center area is what get these boards > rolling in smaller conditions. If you want thinness, put it in the rails > and tail. And keep the rails at least 60/40 or higher until the last > 24" to 18". Rocker low…4-5" in the nose. 1-2" in the > tail.>>> Tail shape can range from anything from hard square to squash to full > roundtail to round pin. Swallows and pins don’t seem to work on hulls for > surf under 8’.>>> Use a fin box. Fin shape and placement are pretty important, and every > board is different…so give yourself a chance to fool around and see what > works for you in your surf. Most hulls like a 9" > Greenough/Liddle/Frye fin between 8" and 14" up. Stick with the > rear measurement in the beginning. The hulls with fins all the way up are > used on really proven shapes ridden in almost perfect point surf. Put the > box 7" up, that will give you plenty of lattitude.>>> Single 6 top and bottom, with either a 4 or 6 deck patch in the middle 4’ > of the board. Weight isn’t critical at with flat rocker and a hull bottom.>>> This could go on forever, but I’ll stop. Just make something and ride the > s*it out of it, then build another one!
Hi Tom, Thanks. When WAVE Corperation was manufacturing the first adjustable fin box back in '69, they were convinced that surfers would really get into moving their fins around. What they found was that most customers just wanted to buy a board and ride it. The Fins Unlimited box became the standard by 1971, so adjustable fins were also a standard, but not everybody wanted to fool with it. Look how long thrusters had glassed on fins before a viable adjustable system was developed…over 15 years! But, for anyone who’s inclined to put out some effort, it’s well worth the time to try different fins and fin placement. A simple rule of thumb is the further up the box a fin is, the more rail line sinks into the water on a turn. With that in mind, it’s easy to keep tweaking the fin placement until just the right amount of rail engages the water. Even 1/4" of movement is noticeable on a board you’re familiar with.
hey paul are u still shaping these boards, and would you know anyone in OZ who may be doing similar designs…
hey paul are u still shaping these boards, and would you know anyone in OZ > who may be doing similar designs… I’m shaping if anyone wants anything like this. I don’t now anyone in Australia shaping hulls, but I’m sure there are people there doing them.
thanks for all of great info paul.by the way, are the anderson[borojorquez] model eggs similar to what you are doing design wise?
thanks for all of great info paul.by the way, are the > anderson[borojorquez] model eggs similar to what you are doing design > wise? they look similar but ride alittle different and aren’t as sophisticated or tuned in.fact is I have ridden a few of them(Andereson’s)and found them to ride and feel different than a PG or Liddle.I understand Scott has made some improvements to them, puuling the tail in and glassing them lighter.