Peace of mind

How far have you gone to get a wave to yourself?

Sammy Lindsay - Arrowsmith Range, NZ - Photo by Steenos

how pristine and perfect is that?

thats sick, i want to be there…

There are some isolated islands in the middle of the Indian Ocean, no snow, warm water, and well worth the extensive effort to get there and surf.

The chance of another boat being there is small, the chance of another surfer even smaller.

Being a dot in the middle of a big ocean, just sitting, looking around, grasping the reality of where you are, and waiting for beautiful waves. Peace of mind.

Let’s see…10 miles down the freeway, another couple of miles through ***** *****, park and walk another 1/2 mile through the wild tracks and paths, down the slippery cliff, a couple hundred yards along the beach and then starts the 1/4 mile paddle…Headhigh to well over head shifty glassy lumps. Every one of 'em was mine for the taking. Paradise is where you find it…

Hey! No naming spots, Lee!!!

ha ha

i think we all have that special place that you can always surf alone and perfect…

I always think to myself, how great would it be if I had a clean, roping break all to myself?

But wouldn’t you want to share it with your closest friends?

Wouldn’t you want to share the stoke?

Surfing by yourself works for many, including me.

If you paddle out by yourself, you paddle in by yourself.

I still get quite a few days alone around here. I like anothe guy out, though. Start thinking maybe the landlord will be out collecting the rent. Mike

I don’t miss living in an area where there is snow in the mountains, but I do sometimes miss playing in it.

i traveled 200 miles from my house and scored some perfect double over head reff break waves. and was usualy one of 4 or 5 guys out in the water.

and soe times no one paddles in at all

yea i hear ya there…the mts are fun…i would rather drive 3 hours to surf in the goods…than hike 3 hours to snowsurf For 3 min…hele is the only way too go snowboarding…its spendy,weather risk involved,it dont cost much more that one of those “surf camps in indo”… you can drive to BC or AK…small mom 'n’pop ski areas are still fun …its the booters that hurt…no kickers…no rails…just pow… no big logs…stumpbonks…big rocks to flat…pin wheels at 60…just pow and the puff shack these daYS ,have a big place in my heart for the snowboard…