An elder sage once said, “Yoga is about personal improvement and peace of mind- treat surfing the same way.” What do you think?
“Life is suffering.” -------- Gautama Buddha Life = suffering ------- Mathematical translation of ‘is’ Life = sufring + fe -------- Associative Property of Equality Life = surfing + fe -------- Commutative Property of Equality Let go of the iron and one’s life is surfing. The surfboard designer keeps this in mind when shaping, constantly aware of the wave/particle nature of the manifested universe. How to design, then shape something that catches or apprehends while, at nearly the same time, lets go and passes through. A delicate balance indeed.
since surfing is a male dominated sport,and when we are young, PROVING YOURSELF to others as a way to acceptance, can easily be washed away by machoism, bravado and generally too much testosterone bubbling to the surface- this is perfectly normal for all males to experience; however, once we develop past the stage of physical growth, mental growth and self awareness should come into play- it is at this point in our lives where we have the oppurtunity to share our experiences as men in this world, and that being said- i would like to use an example- when we are young and can rip it up, those feelings never go away- we hide them away until one day out in a lonley line-up you spot a gang of guys coming down en masse to surf the break you like to surf every day- automatically, a frown appears, and some degrading remark is made either to yourself or other ‘freinds’ in the water about the coming entourage of ‘kooks’ paddlig out all at once- this is testosterone build-up bubbling away under the surface- so, the pack paddles out and ‘ruins’ your session. testosterone boil-over is peaking now inside of you, and you feel that you must exact certain revenge on these ‘interlopers’- you already assume that these people will steal your wave count, so subliminal messages are being produced in your brain by that overload of testosterone- ‘i’ll just cut them off until they leave, or i’ll just stink eye the livin shit out of em’ - these are all manifestations of testoserone boil-over- as men age, mortatlity comes into perspective, and usually testosterone levels die down a bit- unless you happen to be the aggro guy that never let anyone paddle out at ‘your’ spot without a hassle, never shared a wave, and certainly NEVER allowed anyone near your ‘turf’ without some sort of mild verbal abuse or confrontation- we are all familiar with this type of male surfer- he is the one that is presented with the moniker- grumpy local - and everyone who surfs a spot on a reg. basis, steers clear of him. even if the guy happens to still ‘rip it up’, he cannot, for one second, put down that chalice of malice- because along with growth, there is the equally important ‘self awwareness’ (or mental growth) that must be recognized- would you like to be known ’ grumpy local’, or that really cool guy that surfs the same spot i do’??? our actions are mirrors of our inner selves…if you insist on showing your ugly insides to people, that is how you will be identified. as socially ugly.
“… How to design, then shape something that catches or apprehends while, at nearly the same time, lets go and passes through. A delicate balance indeed.” Spencer… precisely why I`ve been drawn to create surfmats. Thank you for the profoundly beautiful words. Dale
Well now there Mr. Buckarue thank ya for your profoundly verbose, dubious, discombobulated, inconsequential, controvertible, indecipherable and insular words. Not to mention all yer loquacious, garrulous, effusive, chatter, prattle, gibble-gabble, jawin’, psycho-babble yakkety-yak. Arnt posts in SWAYLOCKS DESIGN FORUM sposed to be scratched out in plain ol’ good American English? Thanks kindly fer yer attention, Slim Railpickens
“Chalice of Malice” That phrase goes right up there with “shorty magazines”. New catagory: Swaylockisms
I’m just stoked cus I ordered a Neumatic from Dale. I can relate to Spence, I was once a regulator and now I am being regulated. What goes around comes around. You can’t avoid getting older but you can become friendlier and not so grumpy, it takes effort but it’s a growing experience.
Hey SlimP- never quite got your GED did ya? -------------------------------------------------------------------------- Associative Property of Addition: (a + b) + c = a + (b + c) By example: (asshole + blockhead) + cretin = asshole + (blockhead + cretin)
Thats 6th Grade math. "Slim" wasnt in class too often.
“STOP IT, STOP IT! You can’t fight in the War Room!” (President Merkin Muffley)
What goes around, comes around. These old, or young, grumpy guys are the ones most likely to have problems with the lives in general from what Iv’e seen after 40 years on the water. Same kind of crap as road rage. I been surfing with the same bunch of guys (late twenties and older)at a spot in Santa Cruz for years that has a reputation for being rather mellow. Especially when compared to a nearby upwind spot know for it’s buttheads. Grumps don’t stay around long in our spot since most of us value our “peace and quiet” and don’t put up with anyone putting a bad mood in the line-up. One of the young guys we really miss that surfed there often was Jay Moriarty. Talk about inner peace!
Hey, just a darn minute!! Didn’t Slim Pickens go ridin’ down on that big ol’ bomb wavin’ his hat and yelling “yahoooo!!?” Whoever that feller is, he’s drawing some darn literate references. I don’t wanta tangle with him…could whup my whole skinny little brain with one synapse. Ol’ Sam Ervin said he was just a simple country lawyer. I’m thinking he’s actually probably a decent, peaceable sort inside, just having some fun.
been off line fer five weeks, just got back today 26th o’may didn’t miss much, surfed a sack full, But ! to that faker slim rain-on-my-parade-pickens, fer Pete’s sake and fer all us here at the bar swaylocks, try an Identity/ particularity / individuality / singularity / differentiation /distinctiviness / personship / personal identity. why just a selfness, a selfhood, “a single separate person”[Whitman]; a wholeness , an integrity, a “personal equation”, an individual charactor. somthin to the effect of yer own hallmark , brand , attribute , idiosyncrasy , idiocrasy, than just taken my name and spillin’ slop. Thanks gentlemen fer yer attention Slim Railpickens