bggreen:
Some tips from a local Peruvian:
Lets start with the seasons:
Summer (Dec - April) We get smallish south swells and some long period NorthWest Swells, those hit us about a week later than Hawaii.
Winter (May - November) Assortment of south swells, we usually get the bigger swells between june and september (same as Indo)
Keep those two in mind, and some breaks are very seasonal.
Peru has 3 major surf zones:
- Punta Hermosa
This is a beach town 40 km South from Lima on the Panam Highway. Here you will find an assortment of very good (rarely epic) breaks. Between Km 20. and KM.70 of the South Panam Highway you can find everything from long poinbreaks, to heavy double overhead waves, and nasty shorebreaks. Keep in mind most pointbreaks are over rock/boulder bottoms, so don’t expect down the line barrelling perfect waves, its more like slower, bit warbly, very bowly and a bit sectiony, still when its overhead (which it is during most of winter) the waves will be extremely fun, plenty of heavy lips to smash, although low on the barrelling potential. Wind wise, we always have a case of side/on shore winds, usually glassy early morning and late afternoon, summer has less wind (and less waves). In winter we can get pretty strong onshores but there will usually be something surfable.
Crowd wise: More people in the water during summer, than winter. Very Crowded on weekends, will be able to surf with a handful of brazilians on weekdays (empty compared to weekend crowds).
Most consistent breaks will be: Señoritas and Caballeros (Where the ISA championships were held both on Senior and Junior Level), La Isla, Punta Rocas, Puerto Viejo, El Huaico, Chilca (massive shorebreak - on its day as good as Puerto Escondido). Look for videos and pictures of those so you get an idea. Most of these work throghout the year, and some swell directios favor some breaks better than others, during winter ususally the more west the swell has in it, the better the surf gets (except for Caballeros - that place likes it dead south).
Around Punta Hermosa there won’t be much for your wife to do while you surf other than lounge on the beach. There are a couple of Pre-Incan Ruins nearby but thats about it. However if you like good (and I mean world class) dining definately go out in Lima a couple of nights (a taxi from Punta Hermosa to Lima and back from a decent taxi company should be about US$ 30-40). Don’t know about your budget, but in Lima you can eat at a top notch restarurant for US$ 100- 150, what in Europe / USA would be about US$ 300 - 400 (per couple). As far as restaurants check out La Mar Mercado (only lunch), and for fancier nighttime options La Gloria, Central, Malabar, most have a menu in english if you ask for it - I’m not saying go to all of them but if you like good food, try one of those…won’t forget about it anytime soon.
Weatherwise - During Summer, its sunny, air temp 25-30°C, water will be between 18-22°C.
Winter - Always cloudy, gloomy, air temp 12-20°C, however we have a very high relative humidity so it will feel much colder, water will be between 14 - 17°C.
2. Trujillo / Chicama / Pacasmayo Area:
650 KM North of Lima.
Its quite simple:
Weather and water temps same as lima, though sunnier.
Big ass south swell (over 12 feet on Surfline report): Go to Chichama, the more west in it, the better.
Medium SW swell: Pacasmayo (don’t plan on it being good if the swell direction is not at least 215°)
This area has Chan Chan and a couple of other Pre-Incan Archeological Sites. Windy as hell, so don’t plan on having your wife stay on the beach - she’ll be blown up all the way to Ecuador.
DONT GO TO CHICAMA IF THE CONDITIONS AREN’T RIGHT
Most tour operators want you to think it breaks 24/7 365 day a year…it gets good more like 3 or 4 days a month during winter. If its not at least chest-head high its pretty much a long ass longboard wave.
Pacasmayo will work with smaller swells however, the swell direction is critical…as I said 215° or higher at least.
3. Peruvian North Shore:
Now this is wold class.
Check google maps, look for Lobitos, Talara, Peru. It is exactly what it looks like from there, windy, deserted ghost town (although now there is a nice hotel right on the point). Here you will find an assortment of left hand breaks, which I won’t name - (Lobitos the best known one isn’t even close to the best waves in the area), all world class on the right tide. Think of it as a miniature version of the Bukit Peninsula in Bali but with sand bottom - unfortunately the crowds are about the same.
However what you can do is stay in Mancora which is a small resort town about 80 km north, where your wife will have a nice beach, somewhat protected from the wind and plenty of shopping for local artisan items. Check out www.vivamancora.com. If you stay in Mancora you will have to arrange daily transport to the surf. Mancora has a pretty fun wave, but the crowd has become hectic, think of 50 people on soft tops learning to surf, if it gets big the locals come out and catching a wave will be hard.
Swell wise. Lobitos - Talara area, all good with large south swells, also work on north swells, but smaller.
Water and weather: Tropical but dry. During winter will need a fullsuit in lobitos because of the wind.
Hope that gives you an idea.
and really, if you come to Peru…go check out Cuzco, 20 years from now you will probably remember it more than the surfing.