For those of you who have wanted that first Skil or need another; think about it. Buy one on the inter-web that you know nothin’ about. Repair and refurbish it yourself. If you can locate the necessary parts. Or–Pay Pete or someone else to do it for you. You will easily tie up $500 -$700 for a 5.5 amp. And---- it will not be bead blasted, painted and otherwise looking like new. The dust chute alone is worth $75. And it’s a 7.5. Don’t let it get away boys. Lowel
Pete did my 5.5 amp a while back and I have been well pleased with it. There are few people out there who know as much about their subject as Pete knows about planers, motors, machining, and Skil’s in particular.
Brand new!
I can’t see a photo, but I know I want it.
I’m sure if Pete touched it, it’s better than new!
He knows his tools.
Regarding the older style cutting heads type 4 or older.
Really sharp blades ??? Drum ?
Have a type 5 and no trouble with orange foam.
Just lookin’ for a 5.5 shorty and worried about the cut.
Matt - the type 4 has a solid steel cylinder like cutter head w a third hole in center - that is a safety screw to retain a loose blade from flying out. And that gives me peace of mind. The Skil100 7.5amp planer is the BEST planer i ever owned.
Thanks everyone for your kind words. My wife thinks the whole thing is some kinda weird cult.
You know Pete, your wife may well have the correct perspective. Even so, I’m interested. Do you mind sending a PM to me with info? Short, or long bed?
You know Pete, your wife may well have the correct perspective. Even so, I’m interested. Do you mind sending a PM to me with info? Short, or long bed?
A cool trick i just figured out to “loose n her up” is to put your planer on Zero, flip it upside down and look inside the opening in front between the shoe…((bend the click r back (upwards a little at a time w a allen head wrench),use the tip of L part… pry around it til clicker is disabled.))You dont want it too tight. Have fun!!
I used to do that. Until I tried something that ghettorat mentioned a few years back. Take out the index and repace it with a washer the same thickness. Makes it easier to blow out and less likely to clog. Be careful you don’t break off the tab and let it fall back into the motor. Lowel
The five amp is a great tool. Only real differance is the Amps. I used a 5 Amp for several years when I got back into shaping mid- "90s. I’ve gotten used to the extra juice of the 7.5 and like it. I had a grit barrel and opted to sell it to someone who was more familiar with their use. Not easy to find. Shapers Aus. may be about the only place to find "em. I’m partial to really sharp blades. L
Yup. I just pressed clicker back a little at a time where it felt stiff… just pressing w planer braced upside down on my knee… on mine clicker
was stiffer towards the left side… so i pressed there. Again, just a little at a time. It’s perfect! Very slight loose yet faint slide… glad i didn’t push too far. But clicker is pretty stiff up on roof of planer on the inside, so you’d have to press crazy hard to bust the tab. But yeah, one should go slow w pressure. The allen wrench i used is about 3 mm thick. Worked perfectly.
Hi Bill, the ad is in the for sale section.
I got the last spiral grit barrel for a Skil that Brad (FOAM EZ) had in stock and have never regretted it. I would not ever, ever go back to shaping EPS with blades. I spent about the same money as Pete’s costs for my 7.5 amp Skil and have never regretted it, so Petes Skil is worth every penny! Someplace here on Sways I posted the tear down/replacement for a grit barrel in a Skil. I hope that its still around. A 5 amp with blades is great for PU foam and I have two. I use Hitachis for rail bands, skining close tolerance blanks, etc… If you are into the hand/eye thing, you are only as good as your tools. (Rich Harbour quote) LOL. Will PM you Pete in about a week so I can bring down a couple of Skils. Need a short bed! BKB