phil edwards at one time was only our Phil

General Discussion
1

Surf Was A Noun

then it was a verb

 

then in my lifetime

 

it became a metaphor.

 

now it is A  trite hacknee.

stand on a remote beach

alone with god

ancient spirits,familiars,

all arround spinning stories

pointing the way to all who can listen

beyond themselves.

 

 

soon come a wharehoused

ad campagin packaged like champagne

identified as surfing  ‘‘SURFING’’ copyrighted

licenced certified with gold seal off authenticity

exclusivly marketed by …

no It Ain’t dead.

it just moved it’s

zen address.

time to re read the phil edwards

surfer magazine artickle your sensitivities

WHAT IS GOOD

the guy with the best wipeout wins

 

…ambrose…

Old Surfers Home

Waipouli

 

 

 

 

 

2

Lifestyle marketing brought to you by Hang Ten Boardshorts (et. al.).

3

remember when driving from Pacifica to Santa Cruz, would wave at every car with surfboards on the roof…all 3 or 4 of them…when a thumbs up could stoke the stoke

dayz when if the rent was paid, some food in the fridge, half a tank of gas in the ride, $10 in the pocket and half a lid in the glovebox, life was good

spin that dial in the quiet of the night, open up the vault…rides from decades back stand out like they were yesterday. dozens and hundreds of them, the saltwater running through our veins

time isn’t linear, it’s endless, and somewhere in time we’ll always be in full trim, running that fall line…

 

4

Like Phil said way back when, “You should have been here an hour ago.“

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