I think it’s an entirely valid term when describing a shape/model that was out of production for a good amount of time, and then brought back with ‘modern’ features and construction methods. If Hobie and Phil had continuously made those from the inception right through the ensuing decades, then “reissue” would not be fitting. Just like the limited run of Cats that Noll and Dora did in the 90s. Those were a reissue since Da Cat was not in production for decades.
While the recent Greg Noll Mickey Dora Cats were reissues since they were the same shape and construcion as the originals. (Copies of the originals.) I really question whether the Phil’s should be called “reissues” since they are nothing like the original 1964 Hobies (three stringer all with the same dimensions every time, reverse pine fin, parallel rail shape etc.).
Since they are obviously not the same or even an attempt to copy the originals I wonder what they should be called? Reissue just doesn’t see like an accurate term.
Reissue works for me for the exact reasons SammyA lists.
An original I had featured triple redwood stringers but the outside stringers were decidedly wider than the center. I received it used so don't know if it was a custom.
It did have the reverse template fin and no tail or nose block treatment.
I don't think they were offered as East, West, and Hawaii versions but I have seen a fair amount of variation in the old ones... some slightly piggy and some more sleek.
I was slightly disappointed when I read here on Swaylocks that Phil Edwards didn't shape all of them... even though it appears as if he signed them.
I have a Phil Edwards model that I ordered from Phil/Hobie in the mid-60’s (Serial # 697). Like yours, it has a reverse template fin and no nose or tail block. However, the stringers seem to be reversed from yours. The outside stringers on mine are thin (0.25"); the center stringer is wide (0.68") (Fourth board from the left, rear row).
The ''standard'' Edwards Model had 1/4th inch offsets, and 3/4 inch center stringer. Hynsons' model had 1/2 inch offsets, with a 1/4th inch center stringer.
Perhaps john is confusing the two. Both boards had the same total amount of stringer width.
Never saw a Phil Edwards, or a Hynson for that matter, that had a tailblock much less a nose block.They both came one way, as I remember. No color, no nothin’ except the way they came. Same fin (Hynson’s fin shape did change at some point): Red fin on Hynsons and a reverse pine fin on the Edwards (also called a 3/4 reverse sometimes because of where the tip was as opposed to some of he other reverse fins at the time).
Because of affiliation I’m much more familiar with the Red Fins so maybe there’s a Hobie guy on here who knows differently.
I thought it was interesting at the time that most boards came standard with a tailblock of some sort, lamininated wood usually. But here the Ferrari’s or Rolls Royce’s of boards, these two models came with no tailblocks and certainly no noseblocks.
I personally liked the look and still do. So clean. I really think that noseblocks mess up the flowing visual line of a board. Tailblocks I can take or leave.
Oh yeah: And it was not common practice for shapers to sign boards in those days. Even the models. The label had the shaper’s or designer’s or rider’s signature but usually no signing.
I have had a couple of Hynson shapes... one was a G&S red fin with the wide off sets. The other was a Hobie with a box. The Hobie 'offsets' were painted on the blank.
As I recall the Phil Edwards Hobie definitely had wider offsets compared to the center stringer. I don't recall the exact dimensions or what the total stringer width was. Last seen, it was hanging in the rafters at the old Hanifin shop in Newport Beach. I have no idea if that shop still extsts or if the board is still there... it's been nearly 35 years ago(?)
Again, it may have been a custom. Sorry, I don't have pics. It never had a leash attachment of any kind on it.
I do remember paddling around Pt Dume from Zuma Beach on that board one day. By sheer dumb luck as I paddled around the point was in the right place for a nice set wave that popped up way outside. It was easily the best wave I ever caught on that board.
That’s how I remember mine. The two pics I posted above, on Sept 24, clearly show the center stringer as wider.
Here’s some more pics from Blackburn’s highly flawed “collectors” book.
Hobie Phil Edwards model. Serial # 825. From Spencer Croul’s collection.
A close-up of that board’s label, and another foil label that was apparently removed from a board. The book claims it’s a decal, but the serial number (1336) says otherwise. Nobody put serial #'s on decals. Also note that the higher # has red Hobie script while the older board has a blue logo.
Five or six years ago Bill Thrailkill sent me a template for the original PE board which I used to craft my version of an Edwards "re-issue". It's chambered balsa with mohagany stringers and koa reverse skeg, and koa nose / tailblocks. Still hangs in my living room.
Phil Edwards Tribute 9'6" Honduras mahogoney stringers, Hawaiian Koa nose, tail and reverse fin
“The one thing everybody conveniently forgets is that Phil created the
first dished out bottom of a boards nose to make a “noserider” for the
1966 Morey noseriding contest. Yes before they made them at Bing”
mcmalibu,
No offense to either you or Phil, but while Phil may have created the first dedicated, concave-nosed “noserider” in '66, his design surely owes at least a tip of the hat to a development that came out a couple of years earlier.
There’s an article in the September 1964 issue of “Surf Guide” written by Kemp Aaberg entitled “Something New in Surfboards”. The article is about the “new concaves” being tested by the Jacobs Surf Team and includes two shots of Tim Kelly riding the design at 22nd Street Hermosa. In one of the shots, he is nailing an undeniably-legitimate “ten”. However, the article does state that the concave was concentrated in the rear half of this board and did not extend all the way to the nose and also acknowledges Simmons’ earlier work with concave bottoms.
There is also a Weber ad in the May 1965 issue of “Surfer” that features a concave-nosed board.
Again: no disrespect to Phil. He is an unquestionable icon of style and was one of my biggest heros when I was learning. Growing up as goofy-foot in an area of mostly right points, copying his famous “dropknee”, backside turn was a natural!
Has anyone heard of a Phil Edwards Hobie 10’ 5 stringer with a glassed
in single fine offset to the right of center line and no leash anchor? I am looking at buying this model from my local shop but I am not convinced it really is a phil edwards. It looks like a Malibu classic but I haven’t seen anything about an offset fin in any literature.
you will see discussion of fin boxes being put next to stringers for a while, both Yater and Morey-Pope. I don’t know if any Hobies were done that way, but it certainly seems possible.
Now, did anyone GLASS-ON a fin offset from the center stringer, I vaguely remember some discussion in the archives. Maybe you should hunt around in there for a while…
Here are pics of a couple offset glass-on fins. The fins are set in a channel but not a box. They are not removeable. One is an old Yater and the other is an old Owl. I tried to place a stick showing the stepped bottom on the Owl.
I have not seen a Hobie with an offset fin but who knows?
Spent many hours haunting the old Hobie factory in Capistrano Beach, picking up glassing tips from Bobby Patterson, watchgin his brothers, Raymond and Robert sanding and glossing, picking Danny Brawner's brain for glossing tips, and generally being a pest around the shaping rooms, all circa '64-'67, and I never saw a "Phil" that had anything other than: 3/4" redwood center and 1/4" offsets, certainly no tailblocks or noseblocks. They all had that "no hips, no ears" speed-shape outline, as did Hynson G&S's, Jacobs "Takayama" models and many other similar boards of that "Model" era. If any of them had turned-down rails in the tail, they would have been specials for Hawaii, usually also with longer, narrower outlines.
I have attached photos of the board. It has a vintage Hobie labal and a Phil Edwards signature, but the Hobie decal doesn’t say Phil Edwards on it. Thanks for the help.