Hi, I m thinking to do a Red pigment but I m afraid to not get good results; I mean, to have a complete opaque that hides the stringer. I see that most of these works are done with heavy glass so 2 sheets of 7.5 or 10 oz + lots of pigment would do the trick but I will use 4oz.
I think that the guys doing all those pigment works also apply a hot coat with the same color; am I right? May be that helps me with this thinner glass work to obtain that opaqueness?
Thanks
A piece of cut off with stringer, keep adding pigment to the batch and going test patches until you get desired opacity
I’ve done opaque red on light glassing schedules a bunch of times, Here’s a recent one-
5’4 x 18-1/2 x 2-1/4 PUPE
Reverse lam single 6oz S-Glass deck w/toe patches, acrylic pinline. Bottom is a clear single 4oz S-Glass. Clear hotcoat sanded to 400g then a quick polish. (all catalyzed UV cure resin)
I do lots of these (as am amateur) and it’s less complex than you think and similar to what bud said above. I’m not sure if you’re suggesting a single 4oz on the deck, but that is very light. Board won’t last long… I’ve done a few that light for myself, they surf great but are swiss cheese after 3 months or less. If you mean 2 x 4oz it’ll be fine. Just use more pigment. Do a test on a cutoff piece of foam before you catalyse the resin, so you can add more colour if needed. Make sure you add catalyst if you’re using UV resin, even transparent reds don’t sure well with UV alone. For opaque you obviously need to catalyse. There’s no need to use a pigmented hot coat, just clear like normal (or you won’t be able to see your logo!).
Great finish in those pics. What are you using to polish? I sand to 320, then go again with wet 320 (machine), then 400 and 600 wet by hand, then G10 polish with a compounding head and can’t get that glossiness yours has.
Also, by acrylic do you mean Posca / paint for the pinline?
TIA
Hi Jim, thanks. Time ago I did a swirl in what I used a lot of pigment trying to hide the stringer but without success; but I did not tested in a scrap before. Seems gobs of pigment (if not in a white base) should be used?
Hi Bud, pretty good so is possible with clear hot coat too. Can you tell me an approximation of the pigment quantity?
Also your logotypes are done with water based ink or with epoxy inks (those look better but are not what they normal use and yours look fine from here)
Hi Dustys, will be 2 4oz on deck but the bottom will have one so the question. When the guys do a colored hot coat, they sand and then put the logotypes.
Finally I did the opaque deck lamination and came out good.
I went singled finned but I am thinking in multi fins with fcs boxes for the next lamination. I see many times that the guys do the holes for the fusion boxes after the lamination or after the hot coat when they do tints and pigments work.
Seems that after the lamination could be a mess sticking the jig etc; might be after the hot coat?
Or you are brave enough to do it before?
Thanks in advance
