Pigmented cut lap

Right, daft question but… How do you know where the cut lap is? I don’t know if I’m using too much pigment or what, but I can’t see the masking tape edge afterwards, so my cut lap is all over the place. Any tips or techniques?

Make the tape two or tree layers it will give you an edge or step and try to use a contrasting color .

Spot on.

It’s a good question, not a daft question.   Nobody is born with the answers to all these questions.  We all had to ask someone else who had previously learned by asking someone else.   


Two or three layers of tape is a good way.   But even then it can be difficult sometimes to follow your line with a razor blade. You tend to press too hard sometimes and cut into foam…  If you can start your cut at the nose by first making a cut straight back from the tip to the edge of the lap,you can then separate the lap.  Then carefully lift up on one side and begin to cut at the nose around one side 12–18" along the tape.   From there you will be able to fold the fiberglassed cloth and tape back at the cutlap.  You will be able to cut along the folded back tape at  cutlap edge of the tape.  Do both sides the same.  You can make two or three cuts across the tape around the tail to get it to lift up.  This method enables a view of the tape edge folded back with one hand and razor cut with the other.  Cut away tape and cloth in short strips to get rid of excess as you go.  One long strip of tape and cut glass is just in the way and makes it more difficult to fold the cloth and glass back.  Got to watch a Master cut a lap once and paid close attention to everything he did.  Right down to how he held the blade.  The master’s name is Roger Hinds.    Lowel

Helps a lot to cut your lap before the resin gets too hard.

Of course.  That is assumed.

If someone has to start this thread it probably shouldn’t be assumed.

Mr. Marko.  You do it any stupid ass way you want.  I’ll cut mine when it’s ready.

How did you mark where you put the tape?  If you used some type of spacer to get a uniform width on the lap, then you can use the same method to mark where to cut. And yes, Like Mako sez, if you cut when your resin gels {but before its fully hardened} you’ll be doing yourself a big favor. I’ve done it both ways, cuz sometimes circumstances forces you to leave and come back another day, and cutting hardened resin is the tougher way to do it.

I think there are probably some videos out there on this, some guys are really slick with this procedure, and like McDing says, worth watching closely.

Thanks everyone. i actually did the remarking technique on my second cut lap yesterday, and it went a lot better. Still by no means perfect, but an improvement.

Mr mraize , please remember  when you have finished glassing the board that pinlines were invented to cover wobbly cut laps .

There is a YouTube video done by Grant at Fiberglass Hawaii of Otis cutting a Magenta tint bottom.  Exactly the method that I have described in my previous post.

Of course there is always a good old clear free lap.  Oh!  I forgot.  Here on Sways you are required to do a multi colored “Mexican blanket” on your first board.  And of course cutlaps, pin lines etc…

With a clear though you will not have as many dings to fix as a result of building it.  Tape under hardened glass, discoloration, bubbles etc.  Just another step in the process though when you cover it all up with a rattle can of spray paint.  PS. Bet I’ve got something on the shelf in my shop that nobody else does.  L

This was my third board but the first time I’ve used pigment. Just need to finish sanding it. Also got a few bubbles/fish eyes in the hot coat but overall pretty happy. Will post a picture when i’m done. Again, appreciate all the advice.

The key is to always learn from mistakes.  Learn and do whatever you need to do to cover yourself next time around.  Learn what your tendencies are.  I tend to get my lam too dry.  So it would be wise for me to turn back around as soon as I have got everything tight and squeegee a cheater coat back over everything.   Very similar to a second coat of paint on a wall. Double roll or “back roll”.  A “cheater” coat will insure that you pick up anything you missed.  Extra cuts at the tail and nose make sure that you get the nose and tail clean.  Use a cotton roller on the rails.  Midrail to nose.  Midrail to tail.  I even flip my saturated blank with wax paper so that I can closely examine my lap.  Know your weakness’s  and compensate  for them.  It gets easier as long as you do it fairly often.  If you do only two or three boards per year, it isn’t worth it.  Take it to a glasser.  If I were in Orange Co. or O’side;  I would.  But the only glasser we’ve got up here is hours away and high on “shrooms”  so I do my own out of necessity.  Lowel

I actually only make 1 board a year, (Wife put her foot down after the mess I made when I made the first one lol) but I like a challenge so wanted to have a go myself.

Another tip may be to try zipper cutting over cut lapping (dark colours). I must admit that I have never zipper cut as yet, but if you can feel the masking tape (zipper cut?) that might be an additional guide.